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Mods/TP members,
I've seen a lot of posts about starting up in OCF lately so thought I'd put together a brief document that I'll try to illustrate and expand on further at a later date.
Hope no-one is thinking "Who's he think he is?" (this is just info I've learned and am sure it's not a definitive guide) but hopefully, someone will find it useful.
Don't feel that I've yet brought as much to the TP party as I should have, so here's a start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
There are always many questions relating to off-camera flash that I thought I'd give a few pointers about starting up....
I won't go into how you can do it best - the subject is too big and there are far more experienced people on here to give advice on that subject (plus you can go to the Strobist blog for info) - but I'll offer up some quick info on how to get set up with off-camera flash.
First thing's first, everything you need to know is available at http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/...... this is the mecca for anyone wanting to know more about OCF because of its vast content, but it can be so vast that first-timers don't know where to begin. I learn from it all the time and it's founder (David Hobby) is probably the doyen of modern OCF.
Unless you're going along the route of full TTL control using a manufacturer's system, you don't need fancy flashes and you don't need flashes that match your camera, because you'll be triggering them in manual mode using a simple trigger/receiver combination that doesn't carry and TTL exposure information.
Popular flashes these days are those from Youngnuo - these seem to be popular buys - and Nikon's SB-24/25/26 carry a lot of weight in this field because they're cheap (although not as cheap as a few years ago) and most have a built-in optical slave unit that means they'll fire whenever another flash is fired (i.e. the pop-up flash from your camera). A good starter flash is one that must have a manual power adjustment mode. There are others from the likes of Sunpak, Vivitar, Sigma and other major manufacturer models that will be fine, depending on your budget and how much technology you want to buy.
One last key point is that although many trigger systems use a standard hotshoe attachment (like the Yongnuo RF-602s), some don't and require a PC sync port to link to the flash. Nikon flashes are well-loved because they carry these PC ports as standard (aside from the SB-600 and the new SB-700) but Canon have only just started to incorporate them into its flashes. It's a bit of a lottery with many of the other flash units but you can buy a PC sync adaptor that fits on the base of the flash so any flash can be used to attach to a trigger system in this way.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A trigger system is simple; you fit a transmitter to your camera hotshoe and a receiver to a flash (or several receivers to several flashes). The transmitter recognises when the camera shutter has fired, sending a signal to the receiver, which in turn tell the flash to do its thing. Simples, as the meerkats say....
I won't talk about TTL system like Nikon's Creative Lighting System (CLS) because this is one for another day.
The most popular trigger systems are the affectionately known 'ebay' triggers produced by the likes of Yongnuo and Phottix. These have improved massively in terms of quality and performance over the last few years and now are a very, very good option for anyone who want to start off cheaply and/or wants to buy a multiple receiver set-up. A transmitter/receiver set-up costs as little as £25 if you go this route and extra receivers are approximately £15 each, very good value indeed. Some even double up as remote releases.
One thing to look out for if you're buying these triggers from ebay is they're often listed as being suitable for specific camera. From what I've read, this is only to make it come up with any searches for specific camera model, alrhough it appears this trend is changing as triggers become more advanced. However, most cheap triggers carry no TTL information so can be classed as a universal in fit (check if you shoot Sony/Minolta, as these have a different hotshoe to other brands). A trigger set listed for use with a canon 500D should fit and work on a Nikon D3 no problem, although it may be best to check the listing description for full compatibility.
Range has always been one of the big issues with cheaper trigger sets, as people have looked to place lights further afield and have found that these units just don't have the range of more expensive units like Pocket Wizards. Quoted range on an RF-602 is 100 metres but realworld results vary depending on who you talk to. However, that kind of range is more than adequate for a home studio set-up or some outdoor portraiture or even sports.
There are other triggers available; Pocket Wizard does the Plus II, which are trusted and have great range, but they cost £300+ for a set. You have Elinchrom Universal Skyports (I use these and they're great), which again have very good range and I can testify they withstand a proper deluge with no ill effects; they're £125 for a set. Interfit do the Strobies i-Sync, which at about £45 for a set is great value and the receiver can be attached to a stand/tripod thanks to the underside carrying a screw thread (as can many on the market). Phottix have just released the Atlas, which is a PW Plus II look-a-like but carries a screw thread and hotshoe attachment for added versatility. these are about £80 per unit. The list is endless but those mentioned seem to be the ones that UK togs go for.
One point on triggers is some (if not all) have different frequencies depending on the country you're in. I'm not totally sure about the reasons why, other than those frequencies already being taken in certain countries for other use. Best to check when buying
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
So, you have your flash and your trigger. Buy a stand or tripod to mount it on (or get an assistant to hold it) and mount your flash, with receiver, in the position you want. Most triggers have a TEST button to test fire the set-up without having to press the shutter. If it doesn't flash, that could be one of several reasons:
* The batteries/charge in either the flash and/or trigger system are dead. Change each battery in turn to test the fail until it works
* The receiver is out of range; move it closer until the flash fires
* With optical triggers it could be that line-of-sight is required so move the flash until it can 'see' the flash from the camera
* The system/flash is turned off.
* The trigger and receiver are on different channels/groups setting
* The sync lead has come loose from the flashgun
* Auto-sleep is enabled on the flash; turn this to OFF
Now just set the power of the flash output, take a test shot (and adjust power/exposure) and away you go....
I've seen a lot of posts about starting up in OCF lately so thought I'd put together a brief document that I'll try to illustrate and expand on further at a later date.
Hope no-one is thinking "Who's he think he is?" (this is just info I've learned and am sure it's not a definitive guide) but hopefully, someone will find it useful.
Don't feel that I've yet brought as much to the TP party as I should have, so here's a start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
There are always many questions relating to off-camera flash that I thought I'd give a few pointers about starting up....
I won't go into how you can do it best - the subject is too big and there are far more experienced people on here to give advice on that subject (plus you can go to the Strobist blog for info) - but I'll offer up some quick info on how to get set up with off-camera flash.
First thing's first, everything you need to know is available at http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/...... this is the mecca for anyone wanting to know more about OCF because of its vast content, but it can be so vast that first-timers don't know where to begin. I learn from it all the time and it's founder (David Hobby) is probably the doyen of modern OCF.
Unless you're going along the route of full TTL control using a manufacturer's system, you don't need fancy flashes and you don't need flashes that match your camera, because you'll be triggering them in manual mode using a simple trigger/receiver combination that doesn't carry and TTL exposure information.
Popular flashes these days are those from Youngnuo - these seem to be popular buys - and Nikon's SB-24/25/26 carry a lot of weight in this field because they're cheap (although not as cheap as a few years ago) and most have a built-in optical slave unit that means they'll fire whenever another flash is fired (i.e. the pop-up flash from your camera). A good starter flash is one that must have a manual power adjustment mode. There are others from the likes of Sunpak, Vivitar, Sigma and other major manufacturer models that will be fine, depending on your budget and how much technology you want to buy.
One last key point is that although many trigger systems use a standard hotshoe attachment (like the Yongnuo RF-602s), some don't and require a PC sync port to link to the flash. Nikon flashes are well-loved because they carry these PC ports as standard (aside from the SB-600 and the new SB-700) but Canon have only just started to incorporate them into its flashes. It's a bit of a lottery with many of the other flash units but you can buy a PC sync adaptor that fits on the base of the flash so any flash can be used to attach to a trigger system in this way.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
A trigger system is simple; you fit a transmitter to your camera hotshoe and a receiver to a flash (or several receivers to several flashes). The transmitter recognises when the camera shutter has fired, sending a signal to the receiver, which in turn tell the flash to do its thing. Simples, as the meerkats say....
I won't talk about TTL system like Nikon's Creative Lighting System (CLS) because this is one for another day.
The most popular trigger systems are the affectionately known 'ebay' triggers produced by the likes of Yongnuo and Phottix. These have improved massively in terms of quality and performance over the last few years and now are a very, very good option for anyone who want to start off cheaply and/or wants to buy a multiple receiver set-up. A transmitter/receiver set-up costs as little as £25 if you go this route and extra receivers are approximately £15 each, very good value indeed. Some even double up as remote releases.
One thing to look out for if you're buying these triggers from ebay is they're often listed as being suitable for specific camera. From what I've read, this is only to make it come up with any searches for specific camera model, alrhough it appears this trend is changing as triggers become more advanced. However, most cheap triggers carry no TTL information so can be classed as a universal in fit (check if you shoot Sony/Minolta, as these have a different hotshoe to other brands). A trigger set listed for use with a canon 500D should fit and work on a Nikon D3 no problem, although it may be best to check the listing description for full compatibility.
Range has always been one of the big issues with cheaper trigger sets, as people have looked to place lights further afield and have found that these units just don't have the range of more expensive units like Pocket Wizards. Quoted range on an RF-602 is 100 metres but realworld results vary depending on who you talk to. However, that kind of range is more than adequate for a home studio set-up or some outdoor portraiture or even sports.
There are other triggers available; Pocket Wizard does the Plus II, which are trusted and have great range, but they cost £300+ for a set. You have Elinchrom Universal Skyports (I use these and they're great), which again have very good range and I can testify they withstand a proper deluge with no ill effects; they're £125 for a set. Interfit do the Strobies i-Sync, which at about £45 for a set is great value and the receiver can be attached to a stand/tripod thanks to the underside carrying a screw thread (as can many on the market). Phottix have just released the Atlas, which is a PW Plus II look-a-like but carries a screw thread and hotshoe attachment for added versatility. these are about £80 per unit. The list is endless but those mentioned seem to be the ones that UK togs go for.
One point on triggers is some (if not all) have different frequencies depending on the country you're in. I'm not totally sure about the reasons why, other than those frequencies already being taken in certain countries for other use. Best to check when buying
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
So, you have your flash and your trigger. Buy a stand or tripod to mount it on (or get an assistant to hold it) and mount your flash, with receiver, in the position you want. Most triggers have a TEST button to test fire the set-up without having to press the shutter. If it doesn't flash, that could be one of several reasons:
* The batteries/charge in either the flash and/or trigger system are dead. Change each battery in turn to test the fail until it works
* The receiver is out of range; move it closer until the flash fires
* With optical triggers it could be that line-of-sight is required so move the flash until it can 'see' the flash from the camera
* The system/flash is turned off.
* The trigger and receiver are on different channels/groups setting
* The sync lead has come loose from the flashgun
* Auto-sleep is enabled on the flash; turn this to OFF
Now just set the power of the flash output, take a test shot (and adjust power/exposure) and away you go....
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