setting a 1/125th flash sync on a canon 20D

[whitewash]

Cowasaki has graciously allowed me to play in his new garage studio. but ive come a bit unstuck i think, perhaps im just seeing it as an issue when its not.

basically cowasaki has asked me to check that i can set the flash sync speed to 1/125th second, in the custom function I can only get either '1/250th' second or 'Auto'. anyway i can set the sync speed to 1/125th as hes also asked for a shutterspeed of 1/250th, is this going to pose much in the way of issues?

The main issue is that cowasaki is a nikon man and im a canonite and obviously he has the settings he wants to use and i need to fit in with these.

Help! I know zip all about this, ive only used speedlites before!

 

[Chaz Photos]

Well I not see why it matters if you have only studio light the flash will be much shorter then this for you.
The speed is more use when you with to balance your flash with daylight or some other fixed lighting.
Unless he has a wireless remote that is so slow you might take the photo before the flash goes off:shrug:

 

[mickd300]

Most cameras when used in the studio will not operate at 1/250th (time lag between trigger and lights going off).
When using studio lights it is common to work in manual mode, so you set your shutter speed to 1/125th in manual and match the aperture to the strength of the lights and aperture to achieve required lighting effect.

hope this helps.
Mick

 

[cowasaki]

I have my cameras set to 1/125th sync speed and 1/250th shutter speed with the light meter set to give the correct aperture for 1/250th and ISO200. I'm not the most experienced studio user either so just go off the settings I was taught to use when I had my first studio session.

 

[whitewash]

I'm sure we;ll sort something out, manual is good for me anyway as the lightmeter in my 20D is playing silly buggers and doesnt always work.

If not ill soak up the atmosphere for a bit

 

[cowasaki]

I'm sure we;ll sort something out, manual is good for me anyway as the lightmeter in my 20D is playing silly buggers and doesnt always work.

If not ill soak up the atmosphere for a bit

I am sure we will sort it by messing with shutter speed etc

 

[Chaz Photos]

I'm sure we;ll sort something out, manual is good for me anyway as the lightmeter in my 20D is playing silly buggers and doesnt always work.

If not ill soak up the atmosphere for a bit

well to be honest your light meeting in your camera is no good for studio you will need to be in M mode you speed has no bearing on flash only work as the flash will be like 1000 or lees All you need to do is set you Aperture and ISO 200 ISO would be a good starting point.
For studio your rely need a hand held light meter
But you can take photos and read the historgram and work it out that way

 

[cowasaki]

well to be honest your light meeting in your camera is no good for studio you will need to be in M mode you speed has no bearing on flash only work as the flash will be like 1000 or lees All you need to do is set you Aperture and ISO 200 ISO would be a good starting point.
For studio your rely need a hand held light meter
But you can take photos and read the historgram and work it out that way

I have a light meter, a Sekonic LS308s which we will be using. I set the speed and ISO on the meter and it gives the aperture.

 

[HoppyUK]

For studio flash you normally work in fully manual. Set the exposure mode dial to M and adjust the shutter speed and f/number on the main dial and back dial.

With flash and a focal plane shutter you are limited to a max x-sync speed, which is 1/250sec on a 20D. However, you are probably being told to set 1/125sec as the radio triggers often indroduce a small delay.

Use the meter to set up the lights and get them nicely balanced. It will also give you a suggested f/number that will be very close to optimum, but you'll get even closer by checking the LCD/histogram/blinkies and tweaking the f/number and/or ISO accoprdingly. The shutter speed makes no difference, but if you run it too high you will get a dark band appearing on the bottom of your pictures, which is the shutter beginning to close before the flash has finished