Recommendations for Constant Lights for Indoor Event subject lighting needed

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I know the answer is don't use constant lighting, use flash. And this would be my preferred answer as it's what I usually do, however...

Shooting at the NEC last weekend at the ComicCon and ReedPop have decided that flash is no longer allowed.
This is due to someone having an eplilectic fit last year which has been blamed on flash photography. Whether this was the cause or not, it is now a restriction that has been imposed both within the ComicCon halls and also in the public area outside the halls and something we'll have to live with going forward.

My answer this year was to shoot wide open at f/1.4, increase the iso to around 200 and use whatever shutter speed was needed to get a reasonable exposure.
I also had a low powered RGB light wand which allowed a modicum of fill when in close enough.

I would like to ask the assembled masses if they have any suggestions for battery powered constant lights that:
1. Have reasonable power (and battery life).
2. Can have modifiers added.
3. Could perhaps have some RGB functionality as well as a range of light temperatures.
4. Are not "too" expensive.

The idea being to at least provide some fill when standing back far enough to get full body shots without having to have someone else hold the lights.
 
An inconvenient new rule, but you'll just have to live with it, these things happen. There are "no flash" rules in most museums too, on the spurious grounds that flash can cause damage to works of art, maybe that was true way back in the days of exploding flash bulbs, or even further back in the days of flash powder, but them's the rules:(

I really don't know what to suggest. The battery-powered continuous lights that I've seen are really low powered and I don't know whether they would be any use at all, and especially at distance, with the ISL reducing the power still further, but maybe someone else knows better?

Isn't it possible to use mains power, perhaps with the cooperation of an exhibitor? If so, these are pretty bright and have the standard S-fit modifier mount https://www.lencarta.com/gb/neewer-cb200c-200w-rgbww-cob-led-video-light
 
Thanks Garry. Indeed, it would appear that this is the new regime, at least for MCM Birmingham (Oddly the London notes have no restriction on Flash).

Unfortunately mains power isn't really an option. Whilst there are a few sockets dotted around, it's a run and gun game.

I have a few ideas, but will wait to see if anyone else has any recommendations, but yeah I'm not expecting a magic bullet.
 
Do you have the option to increase the ISO?
I upgraded from my old Sony A900 DSLR to an A7iv last year, and a month or two later was at a large family birthday meal in a private room at a restaurant and had been nominated to take a few pictures - we had been at the same venue a few years earlier, and had needed a pair of bounced flashguns to keep ISO manageable - with the A7iv I was able to let the ISO go up to 12800, no flash needed, and nicer, more natural, images as a result.
If shooting in such venues is something you are looking to do a lot, then an upgrade to one of the current FF models from Canon/Nikon/Sony (as preferred) might be the (expensive) solution.
 
I saw some Dutch people in Costa Rica using a constant (daylight) light source, similar size to an iPad Pro to photograph frogs at night.... they were doing the right thing as the macro flash lights are frowned up, and the Red Eye tree frogs don't like it... If I was to go somewhere to do photographing nocturnal creatures I'd be looking to get one of these - not sure if there is an iPad app that allows you to use it but I doubt it has enough strength to illuminate an animal from a short distance.
 
A few weeks ago at a wedding, we had a guest with health issues who couldnt be photographed with flash. I carry a small Godox video light in my bag, about the size of a small phone. Plenty bright enough for the couple and this guest shots.
I've used it a few times for table shots, when the DJ has shut off ALL the room light (silly if you ask me) The flash is so bright to the guests it's blinding, the video light on the other hand gives their eyes time to ajust.
 
Thanks for your input chaps.

Faldrax said:
Do you have the option to increase the ISO?
I upgraded from my old Sony A900 DSLR to an A7iv last year, and a month or two later was at a large family birthday meal in a private room at a restaurant and had been nominated to take a few pictures - we had been at the same venue a few years earlier, and had needed a pair of bounced flashguns to keep ISO manageable - with the A7iv I was able to let the ISO go up to 12800, no flash needed, and nicer, more natural, images as a result.
If shooting in such venues is something you are looking to do a lot, then an upgrade to one of the current FF models from Canon/Nikon/Sony (as preferred) might be the (expensive) solution.
Click to expand...
I have pondered getting an R6ii to make use of my unused EF lenses, but I would prefer to be able to stay with my trusty Fuji APS-C kit which means I can't raise the ISO too high without spending far to much time in LRs new noise reduction tool...
Additionally, what I'm looking for (at a minimum) is to be to generate a bit of fill to balance light and shadow (it's often not practical to move or turn the subject in a busy area) which increasing the ISO doesn't fix as it increases the overall brightness and doesn't give targeted control.

welshwizard645 said:
seems to be no limit on options on Amazon, even up to £40!
Click to expand...
Aye. And most likely similar in power to my 35 quid (it was 25 last year!) RGB wand.
Which to be fair does provide some fill when you are close enough, but back up 6' to get full body, or more to get groups in, and there isn't the power.
Hence asking for suggestions that others have used and know work.

swanseamale47 said:
A few weeks ago at a wedding, we had a guest with health issues who couldnt be photographed with flash. I carry a small Godox video light in my bag, about the size of a small phone. Plenty bright enough for the couple and this guest shots.
I've used it a few times for table shots, when the DJ has shut off ALL the room light (silly if you ask me) The flash is so bright to the guests it's blinding, the video light on the other hand gives their eyes time to ajust.
Click to expand...
Could you chuck some details into the thread so I can have a look? Sounds like this is something that might work :)
 
LC2 said:
Thanks for your input chaps.


I have pondered getting an R6ii to make use of my unused EF lenses, but I would prefer to be able to stay with my trusty Fuji APS-C kit which means I can't raise the ISO too high without spending far to much time in LRs new noise reduction tool...
Additionally, what I'm looking for (at a minimum) is to be to generate a bit of fill to balance light and shadow (it's often not practical to move or turn the subject in a busy area) which increasing the ISO doesn't fix as it increases the overall brightness and doesn't give targeted control.


Aye. And most likely similar in power to my 35 quid (it was 25 last year!) RGB wand.
Which to be fair does provide some fill when you are close enough, but back up 6' to get full body, or more to get groups in, and there isn't the power.
Hence asking for suggestions that others have used and know work.


Could you chuck some details into the thread so I can have a look? Sounds like this is something that might work :)
Click to expand...
Godox LED64. Cant remember the price, but it's not expensive, £25 maybe? Theres probably a newer better version out now, I've had it a few years.
 
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I have a Godox ML60 (which I just had to dig out to remember the number) which is "very underwhelming" compared to flash. I had it for my old photography course to show just how big the difference was between continuous light and flash. It was "mildly ok" as long as the subject is on top of the light, but it falls off very quickly. I wouldn't want to light anything at 6ft or further and certainly not full body - which I'm assuming you're doing. Cheap, it 'aint either although it has some decent batteries and is hand-holdable and takes Godox fit modifiers but you can get an adapter. I had the adapter for my AD400s.

The only other thing of note is that when my students were getting terrible results, they were generally using kit lenses so didn't have 1.4 and were heavily ISO limited with (often) cheap DSLRs. It may be that it's a bit more forgiving if you can open up a bit and high Fuji ISOs are lovely, but it would be a very expensive mistake if it didn't work. Not massively helpful, but just a headsup that even the expensive continuous lights aren't a magic bullet.
 
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Harlequin565 said:
I have a Godox ML60 (which I just had to dig out to remember the number) which is "very underwhelming" compared to flash. I had it for my old photography course to show just how big the difference was between continuous light and flash. It was "mildly ok" as long as the subject is on top of the light, but it falls off very quickly. I wouldn't want to light anything at 6ft or further and certainly not full body - which I'm assuming you're doing. Cheap, it 'aint either although it has some decent batteries and is hand-holdable and takes Godox fit modifiers but you can get an adapter. I had the adapter for my AD400s.

The only other thing of note is that when my students were getting terrible results, they were generally using kit lenses so didn't have 1.4 and were heavily ISO limited with (often) cheap DSLRs. It may be that it's a bit more forgiving if you can open up a bit and high Fuji ISOs are lovely, but it would be a very expensive mistake if it didn't work. Not massively helpful, but just a headsup that even the expensive continuous lights aren't a magic bullet.
Click to expand...
The light I had recommended to me by another of the convention togs (which he uses and seems to get results) is the ZHIYUN MOLUS X100 which claims to be 100W and have a CRI of 95 (not that I care too much as I can always adjust in post). You can fit a bowens mount to it - but I bet most modifiers will suck most of the light from it... It is 400 notes though, which is significant enough when I'd rather not be using a constant light.
But you're right, shooting at f/1.4 will mean that it stands a chance of lighting the subject and perhaps I will just have to put up with not shooting the full body shot, restricting myself to 3/4, or 1/2 and upper 1/3rd.

Just looked at the Godox ML60. Is it AD100 sized? In the pictures it looks more AD300 sized and I'm not sure I'd want to lug that about too much

Cheers for your thoughts on it :)
 
P1060607.JPG

this is the CN -160 on a Panasonic G9ii camera. powerful enough for your needs but might blind somone looking straight at it. battery pack needed is NP-F970/f960
or 6AA batteries

P1000859.JPG
distance to fence 7mtr in pitch black at night on full power' Presumable you have a stand at these shows???? this would give you an onboard camera choice of position -bounce light -and it comes with filters. A couple of batteries or so and a charger should last at least a days shoot if not on all the time
 
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ISO is on Auto so can't help with that sorry. On a tripod with one of filters supplied

P1000864.JPG
 
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LC2 said:
Just looked at the Godox ML60. Is it AD100 sized? In the pictures it looks more AD300 sized and I'm not sure I'd want to lug that about too much
Click to expand...
I don't have an AD100. It's a bit bigger than a coke can if that helps. Slightly taller and a bit fatter. But the battery (and adapter) is an optional extra and comes as a separate device which is fine if you're strapping it all to a stand. I think it came with a handle thing but I wouldn't want to try and hand hold it with batteries even though the marketing says you can. We had better luck hand holding an AD300 (which was fun).
 
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