rgrebby
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PT-04 modifications, which is thw antenna pin?
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newyorkaddict
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I think your T/X has the built in antenna, to add an extension to it, you need to scratch back some of the PCB, and solder to the exposed copper below. If you look around the Strobist FLICKR group you should find a way to do it.
Added:the internal antenna is the wavy line that criss crosses the transmitter.
Added:the internal antenna is the wavy line that criss crosses the transmitter.
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rgrebby
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I think your T/X has the built in antenna, to add an extension to it, you need to scratch back some of the PCB, and solder to the exposed copper below. If you look around the Strobist FLICKR group you should find a way to do it.
Added:the internal antenna is the wavy line that criss crosses the transmitter.
I thought it was that bit. Ive been looking through the strobist blog which is where I found the instructions. Just needed some confirmation.
Any idea if the upgrade would help with 1/200 sec sync issues?
Edit, What I think I will do is use the hole near the bottom which is on the track attach some wire there.
Now I gotta dig out my micrometer and solder iron...
As previously mentioned the antenna is the trace running from the last coupling capacitor down towards the 'bottom' of printed circuit board in your image, I have experimented extensively with these kind of mod's in both remote transmitters, and WiFi technology, you will find the antenna needs to carefully matched otherwise will be very inefficient.
As for the 1/200 sec sync issues probably will make no difference, unless you were operating at a range or conditions where the signal was initially very marginal,
As for the 1/200 sec sync issues probably will make no difference, unless you were operating at a range or conditions where the signal was initially very marginal,
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rgrebby
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I sometimes see a black band where the shutter stops the light.
ifotou
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max sync speed on a 400d is 1/200 sec, if the contact between the trigger and the hotshoe isn't perfect (like if you're holding in portrait mode) it can sometimes cause this.
You will get the same if you try 1/250 sec etc. It's a camera issue not a flash issue IMO -
You will get the same if you try 1/250 sec etc. It's a camera issue not a flash issue IMO -
riviwalker
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Got one of these last week with two receivers, tried rechargeable AAA in the receivers and one worked about 1ft from the transmitter and the other had to be almost touching.
Then replaced the rechargeables with normal AAA batteries, one set Duracell the others another make, but both sets were passed there sell by date (yeah I know, but all I had lying around at the time).
Now one receiver worked about 6ft away and the other one near to 20ft, A definate improvent, thus showing that the 1.5v duracell batteries are preferable to 1.2v rechargeables (which were 2500 ones).
Now decided to mod the transmitter antenna having read numerous article on strobist/flicker etc.
Used an old phono, stereo lead, stripped down the outer shell and the earth screening wire to leave the inner wire with a semi-transparent plastic coating. It is about 10" long. I then soldered one end to the terminal described by other contributors, that is the one where the internal circuit board aerial terminates. I didn't touch this circuit board aerial leaving it intact.
I then threaded the wire through the hole in the aerial circuit board (wire is insulated so no contact is made) then drilled a small hole in the bottom of the plastic case and the rest of the wire, about 9" just hangs down loose outside the transmitter.
I have since tested both receivers with the transmitter on and off camera (test button)and there is a vast improvement in firing of the flash (Canon 580) It will trigger the flash from approx 30ft away with no line of sight and one double and one single brick wall between the transmitter and the receiver/flash.
It was my intention to then cut small pieces off the wire to get a prefered length, however its working and working well so i'm not going to bother. I've read about the 1/4 and 1/2 wave lengths etc for the aerial and also that the thickness of the wire aerial also plays a part in the situation. So the internal aerial is still connected as well as the one I've soldered to it at the terminal so they must both be working to some degree, or maybe adding the extra wire has increased the length of the original. (its a long time since I did physics at school)
The advantage is that if you try it and it doesn't work you can always unsolder the wire leaving the original circuit board one intact and you just have a small hole underneath the transmitter.
Phil.
Then replaced the rechargeables with normal AAA batteries, one set Duracell the others another make, but both sets were passed there sell by date (yeah I know, but all I had lying around at the time).
Now one receiver worked about 6ft away and the other one near to 20ft, A definate improvent, thus showing that the 1.5v duracell batteries are preferable to 1.2v rechargeables (which were 2500 ones).
Now decided to mod the transmitter antenna having read numerous article on strobist/flicker etc.
Used an old phono, stereo lead, stripped down the outer shell and the earth screening wire to leave the inner wire with a semi-transparent plastic coating. It is about 10" long. I then soldered one end to the terminal described by other contributors, that is the one where the internal circuit board aerial terminates. I didn't touch this circuit board aerial leaving it intact.
I then threaded the wire through the hole in the aerial circuit board (wire is insulated so no contact is made) then drilled a small hole in the bottom of the plastic case and the rest of the wire, about 9" just hangs down loose outside the transmitter.
I have since tested both receivers with the transmitter on and off camera (test button)and there is a vast improvement in firing of the flash (Canon 580) It will trigger the flash from approx 30ft away with no line of sight and one double and one single brick wall between the transmitter and the receiver/flash.
It was my intention to then cut small pieces off the wire to get a prefered length, however its working and working well so i'm not going to bother. I've read about the 1/4 and 1/2 wave lengths etc for the aerial and also that the thickness of the wire aerial also plays a part in the situation. So the internal aerial is still connected as well as the one I've soldered to it at the terminal so they must both be working to some degree, or maybe adding the extra wire has increased the length of the original. (its a long time since I did physics at school)
The advantage is that if you try it and it doesn't work you can always unsolder the wire leaving the original circuit board one intact and you just have a small hole underneath the transmitter.
Phil.