Polaroid film - immersed in room-temp water immediately after taken - likely effects?

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adam_dynamic

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Hi,

Realise this is a slightly odd question, thought I'd ask it here first before buying a polaroid camera and finding out it doesn't work anyway! :)

I'm working on a project where I need to (remotely) take a polaroid photo in a very cold environment (down to -50C). In order to prevent the film from freezing after it has left the camera (as it may be an hour or so before I can retrieve it and my understanding is that allowing it to freeze will damage the image) I thought about ejecting the photo into a waterbath held at ~room temperature using a simple heater coil.

I'm extremely new to Polaroid photography (I don't even own a camera yet) - can anyone give any advice on what the likely effects of immersing a polaroid photo in water for 1-2 hours is likely to be? Is the liquid likely to damage either the film (i.e. the active 'chemical' parts of the photo) or the white 'frame' part of the photo?

If it's relevant I will be using Impossible Project SX-70 colour film, appreciate that the question is a slightly strange one, any assistance would be appreciated though.

Thanks,

Adam
 
I'm no expert but won't you wash the developer from the photo?
 
It might not work while it's in the very cold environment, either?

Assuming that it did, could you find a way of ejecting it into a plastic bag which sits in the water bath with the top still outside?
 
At that temperature, I can think of several things that could prevent a photo being taken with an instant camera:

1. The emulsion will be frozen. It may still work, but I imagine it would not perform as intended.
2. The developing solution will be frozen so it won't be spread evenly, or at all, over the emulsion by the rollers.
3. The lubricants on the shutter and other moving parts will be frozen, so the shutter may not fire and the rollers may not allow the film to be transported - hence no development.
4. The battery will either be completely dead or produce a charge insufficient to work the camera.

You would be much better off using 'normal' film (35mm or medium format etc.). I read somewhere that you can clean off the lubricant on the shutters and elsewhere in mechanical cameras to improve cold weather performance and avoid frozen shutters etc. Do this with a Hasselblad and you will have something similar to the camera Neil Armstrong used on the moon . It's quite cold up there (presumably so the cheese doesn't go off?)
 
I reckon a slimline tupperware type box weighted down so it sinks in the waterbath, combined with as large a waterbath as possible should prevent the exposed film/print from freezing. However, the other problems mentioned above may scupper the project.

Of course, there being nobody there to shove the exposed media into the tubs sort of makes that idea rather less useful!

Having a warm water bath near freezing temperature lenses etc. is inviting condensation problems. If a heating coil is possible, maybe just a warm air chamber would be a better idea?
 
Not surfe but the impossible film isn't as stable as the old polaroid film. You have to protect it even after its been developed (fading etc). It's a lot better now than a couple of years ago.
I guess it depends on what the desired results are, after all theres been artists who have dipped negatives in all sorts such as urine fo rthe effoect it gives
 
pop the camera in a sports bag with a hot water bottle in its furry jacket.
whip it out take pick and pop camera and picky back in sports bag

simples
 
Mr Bump said:
pop the camera in a sports bag with a hot water bottle in its furry jacket.
whip it out take pick and pop camera and picky back in sports bag

simples
Click to expand...

"I need to (remotely) take a polaroid photo in a very cold environment (down to -50C)" Not sure he wants to be sitting next to the item he wants to photograph in -50 degrees with his Gola bag on hand ;0)

I am intrigued why it needs to be shot on Polaroid film though? Obviously if it's part of an art installation etc it might make sense but from my little use of Polaroid film (especially Impossible SX-70) it's not the most stable or constant film in even the best of conditions. Also, as per the comments above regarding the camera mechanism freezing before any exposure is taken, the SX-70 cameras are ridiculously complex with something like 9 individual linkages that need to move and trigger the next just to take/eject the photo. I don't think I'd personally be looking to put them anywhere near extreme temperatures. I had enough trouble getting a shot out of one of mine in Piccadilly Gardens although Manchester was a bit chilly at the time ;0)
 
I've just gotta know why Polaroid? Why film at all? And how are you keeping the camera warm, can you not just use the same heat source to keep the exposed film warm? (e.g. stick the hole thing in a heated box with the lens against a window.
 
Jayst84 said:
Will it not already be frozen in the camera?
Click to expand...

This is another problem that I need to solve but more of a 'mechanical' one than necessarily a 'photography-specific' one. I'm going to test the camera I have but I'm reasonably confident that by starting it at 'room temperature' and packing it in lots of good-quality insulation I can keep it warm enough for long enough.

stevelmx5 said:
"I need to (remotely) take a polaroid photo in a very cold environment (down to -50C)" Not sure he wants to be sitting next to the item he wants to photograph in -50 degrees with his Gola bag on hand ;0)

I am intrigued why it needs to be shot on Polaroid film though? Obviously if it's part of an art installation etc it might make sense but from my little use of Polaroid film (especially Impossible SX-70) it's not the most stable or constant film in even the best of conditions. Also, as per the comments above regarding the camera mechanism freezing before any exposure is taken, the SX-70 cameras are ridiculously complex with something like 9 individual linkages that need to move and trigger the next just to take/eject the photo. I don't think I'd personally be looking to put them anywhere near extreme temperatures. I had enough trouble getting a shot out of one of mine in Piccadilly Gardens although Manchester was a bit chilly at the time ;0)
Click to expand...

sirch said:
I've just gotta know why Polaroid? Why film at all? And how are you keeping the camera warm, can you not just use the same heat source to keep the exposed film warm? (e.g. stick the hole thing in a heated box with the lens against a window.
Click to expand...

Why not :) One of those instances where I had the thought and having had it, knew I needed to do it.

The question remains though: assuming that the camera works and the film is ok in the camera and is ejected into a water bath (held at ~room temperature), what is the likely effect on the film itself of sitting in the water for ~2 hours? Will the film fall to pieces? Crinkle? Run into a blurry mess? Any insight would be appreciated!

Adam

P.S. A clue as to what I'm up to.
 
Are you planning on using a clockwork remote to trigger the shot or build a servo-based remote with arduino etc?
 
Digital and a shot every x secs is the usual way. Much simpler, smaller, lighter
 
LOL, we did this a couple of years ago for my sons school project, used a digital bullet camera that took a photo every 3 secs. Didn't think about the temp
I've got quite a few polaroids, wouldn't think of using them for this so it'll be interesting. Box used would have to be a reasonable size to have room for the prints to eject.

A few of my polaroids posted here: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/anyone-use-polaroid.593261/#post-6954917
 
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Use a go pro. Print best shots off with dye sub printer after mildly ruining them in Photoshop for the full Polaroid effect ;)

If you must use a Polaroid would it not make more sense to have a heated dry trap for the film to come out into? An insulated dark box attached to the camera with a small heating element inside so that it kept the exposed film a bit warmer. Soaking it in water seems like a recipe for disaster and film stuck in block of ice on return.
 
What about as said make a box and use a hand warmer. You can get lighter fluid versions that run for 8 hours.
 
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