Please help a keen newbie!

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Katie Skelton

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Katie
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good morning! I am a keen photographer, still lots to learn but really enjoy it! I need help with lighting (please assume I know nothing about anything...!)
I suffer from anxiety and hair loss meaning I don't go out a lot but I do love raising money when I can for an animal charity. I have offered to do a few photos sessions for them in my house in return for donations.
My wonderful hubby gave me some money for my birthday last week and I'd like to buy some equipment for the shoots! I have an entry level dslr with kit lens and 50 prime and happy with these. But I do need lighting and a backdrop stand.
I can either do it in my lounge (which has a large window but varying light) or dining room which gets very very little light as only had windows in surrounding rooms (like a corridor). Don't want to spend a fortune but also don't want to buy rubbish! What kind of lighting would I need please? And how many?!
 
What are you planning on photographing? - the people or the animals associated with the charity?

Have you a particular style or source of inspiration in mind?
 
Hi thanks for answering! It's going to firstly be older children (1-3 years old) and possibly babies depending on whether I can get any training! Also dogs if everything goes ok! Maybe using a few props and decorations?
 
So what style have you got in mind?

If you don't know, you'd be better spending a few evenings looking at photos to find two or three styles that appeal to you. Buy the gear before you know what you want to do, and there's a good chance it will be the wrong gear.
 
Firstly, use the biggest room you can - lighting equipment does tend to fill the room:)
Secondly, the light from a large window shouldn't be enough to cause any kind of problem provided that sunlight isn't streaming through it, and provided that you use studio flash, which has a lot more power than hotshoe flashes. If light from the window ever does become a problem, you can always block it with a curtain, blind or similar.

As for choice of lights, something like a 2 or 3 head kit will be all that you need, and in terms of power, 200Ws will be plenty.
If you want to shoot against a white background then a 3 head kit will be needed, as the background will need two lights. If you're not planning to do that you can manage with less.
 
Budget? Assuming hubby didn't give you £1k, you can get very well started for around £200.
 
Hi Katie, it sounds great what you are wanting to do - I have a project I'm developing making portraits for families with disabled children, but I'm a long way off starting clicking away just yet.

Get a book called 'Light: Science and Magic' - it was reprinted recently but I picked up a copy from the last reprint in 2007 (I think) and it's brilliant, I paid something like £8 delivered from an Amazon reseller. Also, take time to read the 'Lighting 101' and then '102' on the Strobist website - http://strobist.blogspot.co.uk/ - David explains and shows how to use flash lights rather than studio strobes for your lighting, it's a really good read and explained so much to me.

Before you buy any lights see what you can do with the natural light from your windows, it's a challenge but a good one, it will vary with the weather, but even on a dull day you can get some great shots and they look so different to a shot taken on a brighter day.

You can then think about which way you want to go, personally I'd say if you will always be at home you will be better off with strobes, there are brands like Godox that sell good quality lights for a good price, and there are some bargains t be had on eBay - I managed to pick up three good quality but older strobes, stands and modifiers for £100. They are not the latest lights but they are good quality and powerful, with a set of wireless transmitters I have a small studio setup for when I'm ready. I'm just starting with one light, I think it's important to understand how to use the one light really well before you add more lights. Ultimately if you can't use one light how would you manage with more, so this way I'll learn slowly.

As David Hobby says via his Strobist site you can do it with flash lights, I did consider it, but as I plan to be inside for pretty much all my photography (or near plug sockets if I'm outside) it just seemed right to go the strobe route. I wouldn't spend any money until you have read the Strobist site and read the book. I got told the same thing, and once I'd read them both things just made sense, if I hadn't read them I wouldn't have had a clue. Same for backdrops, you need to read about it all first, I picked up a used stand for £30 as it was a bargain, you can buy them new for that, but they seem a bit flimsy and I'd be using mine for pretty much every shoot I'm guessing. Backdrops are not expensive, I'm going to get muslin sheets when I'm ready, they are around £20 for a decent one.

Do read though, I know it sounds obvious but it's really worth the time and effort. The Strobist site is free to read, the book will cost a tenner maybe. Also, there is a lot of stuff on YouTube, not all great, but some gems, so have a search. Baby portraits are very different to toddlers, they may seem easier as they don't run about but you will need quite a lot of experience and a fair amount of kit to be able to take good baby pics in my opinion. You may find a zoom lens would be a worthy investment if you are trying to make portraits of lively toddlers, they won't sit still so you will want to be able to capture every moment. I don't know enough about lenses to advise though, someone else will give you some advice on what to get.

Best wishes :)
 
Wow thank you so much for all the advice how helpful I have in mind the type of photos im looking at but don't know whether I can describe them well! Just basically very clean and bright?
I must apologise that I literally dont know anything about lighting. I have only ever used the flash that comes with my camera but obviously no good for this! I'm sorry but I don't know
- the difference between studio flash and hot shoe flash
Or what flash lights, strobe lights etc are. Then I've seen transmitters mentioned etc again no clue! I'm so sorry I feel like a dummy!

I have a £500 budget but id like to spend as little of that as possible the only experience I have with any lighting is when I went for a shoot for my one year old and the lady had one light on a stand with an. Umbrella on and it didn't fkash but seemed to be on continuously
 
Keep your money safe and do the reading, honestly I know it sounds really boring but you will be answering all of these questions yourself in no time if you learn. Order the book, while it's on the delivery truck you can spend your time reading 'Lighting 101' on the Strobist site.

The lady may have used continuous lighting, or it could have been the modelling lamp on her light and you didn't notice the strobe - unlikely but possible. Either way, read before you spend any more than the cost of the book, you will be glad you did. You could go and spend most of your money on lights but then you won't know where to start, you will want to use them all, the results won't be what you want and you will be frustrated. Or you can learn first and experiment after - best advice I can give.
 
Katie Skelton said:
Wow thank you so much for all the advice how helpful I have in mind the type of photos im looking at but don't know whether I can describe them well! Just basically very clean and bright?
Click to expand...
Find a few examples online, create a Pinterest board and share the link.. take your time, the clearer your idea of what you want to achieve the easier it is to figure out how to get it (y)
 
Katie Skelton said:
Wow thank you so much for all the advice how helpful I have in mind the type of photos im looking at but don't know whether I can describe them well! Just basically very clean and bright?
I must apologise that I literally dont know anything about lighting. I have only ever used the flash that comes with my camera but obviously no good for this! I'm sorry but I don't know
- the difference between studio flash and hot shoe flash
Or what flash lights, strobe lights etc are. Then I've seen transmitters mentioned etc again no clue! I'm so sorry I feel like a dummy!

I have a £500 budget but id like to spend as little of that as possible the only experience I have with any lighting is when I went for a shoot for my one year old and the lady had one light on a stand with an. Umbrella on and it didn't fkash but seemed to be on continuously
Click to expand...
OK...
The flash that's built into the camera is of some use, but not a lot - it doesn't have a lot of power but it's main limitation is its position, just above the lens, which for nearly all shots is the worst possible.
A hotshoe flashgun is a bigger, more powerful flashgun that runs on batteries and sits in the camera hotshoe (if you're lazy) But it's far better to move it away from the camera, usually just put it higher, or higher and off to one side. Doing this will create a better quality, more natural light in most situations. It's possible to get a short lead that fits into the camera hotshoe and into the bottom of the flashgun, so that the camera and flashgun can talk to each other, but these are both limited and expensive, so most people use a radio trigger instead - the transmitter part goes into the camera hotshoe and the receiver part goes on to the flashgun - cheap and trouble free.

The terms flash lights, strobe lights, are interchangeable and pretty meaningless.

Studio flash is more powerful, bigger, has a modelling lamp that shows you where the shadows are going to fall (an imense help) and they recycle far more quickly than any hotshoe flashgun, which is very important when shooting small children, because you'll need to take a lot of shots in quick succession. Most studio flash heads are also cheaper than branded hotshoe flashes. The biggest single advantage though may be that you can fit a host of different light shaping tools to them, to achieve different effects easily and well. People who advocate hotshoe flashguns say that they can produce the same results, but not in my experience, or at least not in all situations.

If you want to read all about it, please take a look at our Lencarta Lighting Centre, there are a couple of hundred articles there on how to light specific situations. http://www.lencarta.com/studio-lighting-blog/#.V-qH5Mma1cV

I'm probably biased because I work with the Company, but this SmartFlash twin head kit is a very good choice if you don't want to light a white background http://www.lencarta.com/studio-ligh...sh-studio-flash-lighting-kit-softbox-umbrella
And this one if you do. http://www.lencarta.com/studio-ligh...h-smartflash-studio-flash-lighting-kit-3-head
Both include everything you need, including the radio triggers/remote control.
 
Not much to add to the above.

All the information you need is readily available, but like the practice that follows, it'll take commitment from you to read understand and learn.

If you really want to do the clean white background thing, you should be aware it's technically very challenging and only gets really easy when you have a massive amount of space to work in and as many lights as you feel a need for. And I mean massive...

A full length portrait of an adult lit well without too much PP work requires well over 20ft between camera and background.

You can do a really nice portrait against a mid toned or dark background easily in most domestic rooms, the key to success is understanding and working with your limitations. Frustration is created when you set off with a fixed idea that's impossible with your circumstances.
 
Simple light set up I use is a Yongnuo 560VI flash and 560Tx controller. I paid £40 I think it was for the pair off a seller here. Then get a lighting stand, flash bracket and softbox and you have a very portable lighting system that takes no space up at all in the house and produces excellent results.

Taking in my conservatory, softbox pretty much straight on, using the exact same set up as listed above. Background was a £50 delivered matt white vinyl roll
The kids by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

And the same set up but the flash higher and up to the right. Background this time is a £2 off cut of grey felt
Olibobs by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

This is the flash bracket and softbox that I have and used for the above 2 images
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-sof...hash=item1a1598cfb3:m:mSyyEKptUbdE2v8mO64KxYA

PS - A background is what you make of it, if you have a nice wall, skirting board and floor-boarded floor this is excellent and already there, no need to buy anything!
 
cardiff_gareth said:
Simple light set up I use is a Yongnuo 560VI flash and 560Tx controller. I paid £40 I think it was for the pair off a seller here. Then get a lighting stand, flash bracket and softbox and you have a very portable lighting system that takes no space up at all in the house and produces excellent results.

Taking in my conservatory, softbox pretty much straight on, using the exact same set up as listed above. Background was a £50 delivered matt white vinyl roll
The kids by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

And the same set up but the flash higher and up to the right. Background this time is a £2 off cut of grey felt
Olibobs by Gareth Williams, on Flickr

This is the flash bracket and softbox that I have and used for the above 2 images
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-sof...hash=item1a1598cfb3:m:mSyyEKptUbdE2v8mO64KxYA

PS - A background is what you make of it, if you have a nice wall, skirting board and floor-boarded floor this is excellent and already there, no need to buy anything!
Click to expand...
Just a few points, I appreciate you posted these as a how I would rather than for critique, but the OP needs to know the pitfalls.

The first image with the 'white background' clearly hasn't got a 'white' background, there's nowhere near enough space between the subject and background to control the exposures properly.

That 2nd image is adorable but the lights still a little low, try to remember the natural face of a shape is how we see it lit by the sun/sky, the catch lights should be just below the eyelid

And finally (sorry it's not personal), that old design of speedlight/softbox bracket is fiddly to the point of Heath Robinson. I'd recommend one of these.

Cheap, effective, and gives an 'in' to getting other s fit modifiers.

But backgrounds, absolutely bang on:
I don't have stripped floorboards and fancy wallpaper, but I always decorate with the thought that I might want to do headshots in the room. I rarely make use of proper backgrounds.
 
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If doing photography for money, be it for yourself or for charity can bring up a can full of worms. For example if I took a child to you for a photo and paid you for it and I didn't like it or not up to acceptable standard You could come into deep trouble. As soon as you accept money you are running a business for whatever reason. Misleading clients -trade description- contract breach of etc etc. Then you would need to supply proof to HMRC that you are not making any financial gain which means audited book keeping. There then is a question of release forms and copyright. Ok I know it sounds OTT, but having run my own business I know he pitfalls one can run into even if not obvious at the time. You may also well be considered as acting on behalf of a charity as their photographic representative and get the charity looked into as well.

Yes I have already said it and no doubt the above won't apply, but you should be aware anyway which is why I posted. As soon as you take money from clients you become a professional photographer and all that it implies
 
Phil V said:
The first image with the 'white background' clearly hasn't got a 'white' background, there's nowhere near enough space between the subject and background to control the exposures properly.

That 2nd image is adorable but the lights still a little low, try to remember the natural face of a shape is how we see it lit by the sun/sky, the catch lights should be just below the eyelid
Click to expand...

Yeah I see what you're saying, I was just showing what is achievable with a single speedlight, I suppose it's each to their own, I don't like the bright burnt out high key white backgrounds that make the subject look like they've been superimposed onto a plain white document, I prefer a slight 'dull look' if you will so there is more depth to the image, if I did want it brighter I would of added lights onto the vinyl that we're more powerful than the main key light so it would of burnt it out but I don't dig that look and from reading strobist etc it appears I'm not on my own! Anywho, appreciate you taking the time to look at them :)
 
cardiff_gareth said:
..., if I did want it brighter I would of added lights onto the vinyl that we're more powerful than the main key light so it would of burnt it out but I don't dig that look and from reading strobist etc it appears I'm not on my own! Anywho, appreciate you taking the time to look at them :)
Click to expand...

I'm not a fan off the look either, but it appears to be what the OP wanted to aim for and I was trying to explain why it isn't a good idea.
Phil V said:
if you really want to do the clean white background thing, you should be aware it's technically very challenging and only gets really easy when you have a massive amount of space to work in and as many lights as you feel a need for. And I mean massive...

A full length portrait of an adult lit well without too much PP work requires well over 20ft between camera and background.
Click to expand...
 
cardiff_gareth said:
Ah! Got it!! Yes, re-reading it I now see that! Pays to read things carefully!
Click to expand...

Ta.

Because this...
cardiff_gareth said:
I would of added lights onto the vinyl that we're more powerful than the main key light so it would of burnt it out
Click to expand...

The consequence of which would be...
A burning out of the edges of the subject and even lens flare (the interwebs is full of examples)


And the solution is to create loads of space between subject and background, getting us to...

Phil V said:
... only gets really easy when you have a massive amount of space to work in and as many lights as you feel a need for. And I mean massive...
.
Click to expand...
 
Very true, it's easier when you have loads of space to move your subject much further away from the backdrop to avoid spill but it's not not necessarily impossible if you are careful with the light placement and use modifiers to direct the light only where you want it ;)

Anywho, we're digressing from the thread!
 
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