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Swissy

Swissy

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Would like a bit of advice please, if you were in a situation where you wanted to take some indoors portraits, and you had no time to set up any studio type lighting, softbox, umbrella etc, what would you say would be the best lighting achieved from one flashgun?

Would it be, bounced of a ceiling or wall, bounced using the little card that flips out at the top of the flashgun, or diffused via a plastic diffuser which i bought for my Yongnuo 565EX.

Any advice appreciated, cheers
 
Windowlight will always be better, get some pillowcases to use as reflectors - people will be amazed at what you can produce with a little windowlight, blinds (or curtains) and available reflectors.

As for a flashgun:
The bigger the diffusion area, the better the diffusion. This question sounds a bit like 'I've painted myself into a corner - help me out of it'.

Have you got a reflector? If not, make it your next purchase. A 5 in 1 reflector is probably a more useful piece of equipment than most of what you've spent money on.

The little card that flips out of your flashgun is just to throw a little light forward when bouncing your flash (it's not instead of the bounce).

The plastic diffuser, diffuses the flash to spread it so that it bounces back at the subject from all kinds of directions, depending on the size and shape and colour of the room, it can be useful.

Flash bounced off the ceiling is infinitely better than straight on flash, Flash bounced off a wall or large reflector to the side of the camera can be good too. I've been known to point the (camera mounted) flash head back and to the side at about 45 deg into a large reflector - creates a large light source that's sort of 'off camera'.

After you've bought a reflector, get hold of a copy of Syl Arena's Speedlighters Handbook - It's a great resource for understanding the why's and how's of creative lighting with flashguns.
 
Nice one Phil, thanks for your detailed reply, i'll have a look for that book
 
Good advice from Phil. Window light is often just the job and if that's an option I'd take that for a solo portrait or a couple. I find that brightness can fall off quite rapidly inside the room which makes it more dificult for groups. I have a small 20in Lastolite reflector that folds down really small so is always in my bag.

I wouldn't hesitate to use flash though, if there's a white ceiling or wall. Used with the pull-out highlight panel (or preferably a bigger bounce card*) or a Stofen-type diffuser cap. You get three light sources to play with here: main light is bounced from the ceiling/wall, then the card/diffuser lifts shadows under eyes and chins with a dash of direct light that also puts a nice sparkle in the eyes, then thirdly there's the ambient light so you can moderate the brightness of the background with shutter speed.**

Syl Arena's Speedliter's Handbook is excellent (for Canon users mainly) :thumbs:

* Pull-out highlight panel is amazingly handy, though a bit bigger is better, eg small white index card attached to back of flash with rubberband, or something like this www.abetterbouncecard.com Tilting the flash head forward moderates brightness from both the card and ceiling, though note it also moves the light from the ceiling and can put it behind the subject if you're close. I use a Lumiquest QuikBounce that works on the same principle, brilliant device, and also folds flat so is also always in my bag http://store.lumiquest.com/lumiquest-quik-bounce/

** If the ambient light is tungsten, balance the colour of the flash to that with a light orange CTO gel.
 
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Thanks Richard, some more great advice.
 
Swissy said:
Thanks Richard, some more great advice.
Click to expand...

You're welcome :) Short answer though is to get that Lumiquest QuikBounce - effective, versatile, fast, folds away flat. You can also moderate the bounce/direct light balance by zooming the flash head.
 
I've bookmarked it mate, looks like a nifty bit of kit, i will buy one when i get paid, thanks again.

It's only £40 on Amazon :)
 
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HoppyUK said:
Syl Arena's Speedliter's Handbook is excellent (for Canon users mainly) :thumbs:
Click to expand...

I only found out about this book yesterday, but I've yet to put it down. I'm not very patient when it comes to reading 'technical' or 'how-to' guides as a rule, but this is really well written and flows very well at a reasonable pace.

I bought the kindle version though, which was probably a mistake as many of the photo examples are somewhat disjoint from their captions and you can't view the text at the same time as the photos on some examples, so go for the printed version.
 
Swissy said:
Would like a bit of advice please, if you were in a situation where you wanted to take some indoors portraits, and you had no time to set up any studio type lighting, softbox, umbrella etc, what would you say would be the best lighting achieved from one flashgun?

Would it be, bounced of a ceiling or wall, bounced using the little card that flips out at the top of the flashgun, or diffused via a plastic diffuser which i bought for my Yongnuo 565EX.

Any advice appreciated, cheers
Click to expand...

If I had to choose (and sometimes you do) and the room accommodated it, I'd bounce the flash backwards.
When that's not an option, I would use the flash bounced overhead with a bounce panel (I use a rogue flashbender, I can also use it as a flag).
When that's not an option I would use the flashbender along with the kit diffuser dome.
When that's not an option...well, f'it all. There's only so much you can do.

Now, window light w/ reflectors and a little flash fill is another story...but that wasn't the question and it's not always an option.
 
Phil V said:
get hold of a copy of Syl Arena's Speedlighters Handbook - It's a great resource for understanding the why's and how's of creative lighting with flashguns.
Click to expand...

Phil i have just taken a quick look at this on Amazon, and it got very good feedback, but it seems to favor Canon users, in your opinion would that be correct, or would it be useful for anyone ?
 
TG. said:
Phil i have just taken a quick look at this on Amazon, and it got very good feedback, but it seems to favor Canon users, in your opinion would that be correct, or would it be useful for anyone ?
Click to expand...

Itd be useful for anyone, but it does cover the control systems for Canon ettl II system although it mentions 3rd party flashguns and triggers too.

But mostly it's about practical lighting using flashguns. It covers all the why's and how's, available accessories etc.
 
sk66 said:
If I had to choose (and sometimes you do) and the room accommodated it, I'd bounce the flash backwards.
When that's not an option, I would use the flash bounced overhead with a bounce panel (I use a rogue flashbender, I can also use it as a flag).
When that's not an option I would use the flashbender along with the kit diffuser dome.
When that's not an option...well, f'it all. There's only so much you can do.

Now, window light w/ reflectors and a little flash fill is another story...but that wasn't the question and it's not always an option.
Click to expand...

Some good options there :thumbs:

Bouncing the flash backwards against a wall or a wall/ceiling can give very nice light indeed, but there are some caveats. You often need to move the subject to get them in the right position to the wall, and it ideally it should be white. Ceilings are almost always white but walls rarely are, though a light colour will usually do with a bit of colour correction in post processing. Bouncing flash just eats light, bouncing off even a lightly toned wall will eat quite a bit more, and with the wall behind that will roughly double the distance involved, meaning even more light is needed. Basically, you need a big gun and be prepared to push the ISO and/or shoot at a low f/number.

Rogue FlashBenders are good - basically a very versatile kind of bounce-card in situations like this. I really must get one :D

When all else fails, another idea that press photographers use a lot, is to have the flash on a short cord. Hold it up in your left hand and just point it at the subject. This looks far better than direct on-camera flash. It also works just as well outdoors, and because the flash is close and firing direct, you'll have tons of power. Not that you'll need it mostly, but when using high speed sync in bright sun outdoors (HSS is inherantly wasteful of light) you'll be fine :)
 
Phil V said:
Itd be useful for anyone, but it does cover the control systems for Canon ettl II system although it mentions 3rd party flashguns and triggers too.

But mostly it's about practical lighting using flashguns. It covers all the why's and how's, available accessories etc.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks Phil, i will take a closer look, and may even click on the buy button :D
 
HoppyUK said:
When all else fails, another idea that press photographers use a lot, is to have the flash on a short cord. Hold it up in your left hand and just point it at the subject. This looks far better than direct on-camera flash. It also works just as well outdoors, and because the flash is close and firing direct, you'll have tons of power. Not that you'll need it mostly, but when using high speed sync in bright sun outdoors (HSS is inherantly wasteful of light) you'll be fine :)
Click to expand...

I've done this using CLS... first choice being to bounce it off of a wall. Even outdoors with short range I've never had a problem. (long range in bright light yes). I find that a lot of walls are painted "earthtones" these days. While that eats more light, I don't find the color cast to be a problem when mixed with typical incandescent lighting. I only say that because I can't recall ever having to struggle with mixed WB in post...

I do work with raw files, and I wouldn't ever choose to bounce off of something strongly colored.
 
HoppyUK said:
When all else fails, another idea that press photographers use a lot, is to have the flash on a short cord. Hold it up in your left hand and just point it at the subject. This looks far better than direct on-camera flash. It also works just as well outdoors, and because the flash is close and firing direct, you'll have tons of power. Not that you'll need it mostly, but when using high speed sync in bright sun outdoors (HSS is inherantly wasteful of light) you'll be fine :)
Click to expand...
This technique is enthusiastically promoted by Syl Arena in the Speedlighters Handbook & on tutorials on his website http://pixsylated.com/blog/
 
nigelbb said:
This technique is enthusiastically promoted by Syl Arena in the Speedlighters Handbook & on tutorials on his website http://pixsylated.com/blog/
Click to expand...

Yes, it works well. The big drawback, or advantage depending on your view, is that the light is very hard and directional, casting sharp, dark shadows.

That can look great, and way better than direct flash on-camera, but the whole point about bouncing is it makes the light much softer - the bounce surface becomes your new light souce and being hundreds of times larger than the bare flash head, much softer. Bounced light is also much less critical of subject/flash positioning, and another upside is it spreads further, helping to lighten the background.

Edit: another tip I picked up from Syl Arena. If you're stuck for a bounce card, use the palm/fingers of your hand up against the back of the gun. Not exactly ideal, but it certainly works :D
 
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I would like to thank Phil for pointing me towards Syl Arena's Speedlighters Handbook, i'm completely engrossed in this book now, and hopefully my lighting technique will benefit from it :)
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes, it works well. The big drawback, or advantage depending on your view, is that the light is very hard and directional, casting sharp, dark shadows.
Click to expand...
In that case a Fong DOng or similar modifier should soften the light.

BTW Rest assured if there is anybody who because you don't use Canon think that Syl Arena's "Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites" isn't for you. While of necessity there is specific discussion of Canon Speedlites the vasty majority of the book is of interest no matter what camera system you use.
 
nigelbb said:
In that case a Fong DOng or similar modifier should soften the light.

BTW Rest assured if there is anybody who because you don't use Canon think that Syl Arena's "Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites" isn't for you. While of necessity there is specific discussion of Canon Speedlites the vasty majority of the book is of interest no matter what camera system you use.
Click to expand...

The suggestion to hold the gun up in your left hand was mainly in connection with shooting outdoors, where there are no bounce surfaces. This is where the Fong LightSphere doesn't perform so well.

Apart from being a large and rather clumsy thing that takes up a lot of space in your bag (even the collapsible version) it spreads light everywhere around 360 degrees. Like the simple/cheap Stofen type diffuser caps, this can work well indoors where there are walls and ceiling to bounce off, but outdoors this just wastes most of the precious light and you're left with a fraction of the gun's total output.

The LQ QuikBounce works in a similar way (as do most these bounce/diffusion accessories indoors) but outdoors you can just close the flaps and direct all the light foward. Wipes the floor with the Fong every which way IMHO.
 
HoppyUK said:
When all else fails, another idea that press photographers use a lot, is to have the flash on a short cord. Hold it up in your left hand and just point it at the subject. This looks far better than direct on-camera flash. It also works just as well outdoors, and because the flash is close and firing direct, you'll have tons of power. Not that you'll need it mostly, but when using high speed sync in bright sun outdoors (HSS is inherantly wasteful of light) you'll be fine :)
Click to expand...

I do this a lot for events. Often with an orbis on, to reduce/soften the shadow. Works well, if you're in a hurry.
 
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