Olympus OM-1n Dark Viewfinder :(

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pauloroids

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Paul
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Hi,

Can't work out why the viewfinder is totally dark, any ideas?
Thanks, trying to work out my dad's camera he gave me!

Paul
 
I'm guessing it has one of those slidey or flick switches which block out light getting into the viewfinder altogether. Or you've left the lens cap on...
 
Totally black, mirror is locked up or stuck. Very dark, aperture blades stuck at high f/number. Camera is 100 years old after all.
 
I presume that you've tried it with different lenses?

If the viewfinder is still black with a different lens then the camera is the problem, if not then its the lens.

Remove the lens and take a look into the mirror box, is the mirror down or not? If it us up then check the mirror lock up is not engaged, turn the little round switch on the right hand side (from the back) of the cameras lens mount (to the left of the self timer switch) to engage/disengage the mirror lock up. If you turn that and the lock up is engaged then the mirror should fall.
 
As people here have said, you must look for and check every part involved in what you see when you look through the viewfinder:

slr_querschnitt_01.jpg


Part number 1 in the above picture: "The mirror", remove the lens of the camera and check if the mirror is locked up and blocking the light.

Part number 2: "The focusing screen": if the mirror (1) is down you will see the focusing screen, check if its clean, you can remove it, here you can find how to do it:

http://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography/...ympusom1n2/shared/accessory/screens/index.htm

Part numer 3: "The pentaprism": if you remove the focusing screen (2) you will see the the lower face of the pentaprism, check if its clean.

Here a section image of the OM-1: http://www.photoxels.com/images/Olympus/om/olympus-om1-xsection.jpg
 
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Look towards the bottom of the page - mirror lock up

David
 
HoppyUK said:
...Camera is 100 years old after all.
Click to expand...

Just about run in in OM1 terms.:p

edited to add -

Mirror lock up switch on the lens mount just by the top of the self timer switch.
 
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Replace the battery. The mirror locks up if the battery goes flat. This will black out the viewfinder.
 
White Rose said:
Replace the battery. The mirror locks up if the battery goes flat. This will black out the viewfinder.
Click to expand...

That would surprise me. The only thing the battery drives on an OM1 is the exposure meter.
 
White Rose said:
Replace the battery. The mirror locks up if the battery goes flat. This will black out the viewfinder.
Click to expand...

Not the case on the om1. You can use it without a battery all together. I'd also back the mirror lock answer. It's on the side of the lens mount on the om1. Pretty sure if it's in the vertical position, the mirror is locked up.
 
White Rose said:
Replace the battery. The mirror locks up if the battery goes flat. This will black out the viewfinder.
Click to expand...

Nope - not with the OM1 which doesn't need a battery to operate the shutter or mirror, only the meter. The OM2 however does do what you describe.
 
Awesome you guys!!! Thanks for the advice.
It was the mirror lock up :)

The beast lives once more !
It seems to work ok without the battery, (though I do have a battery and also the motor drive)
I'd actually like to remove the motor drive but it leaves a part of the camera's interior exposed at the bottom...anyone reckon its possible to buy the little cover for the motor drive socket? Wouldn't seem right to not have the little cover thing though...hmmm

Cheers :)

Paul
 
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Check inside the drive there is a little slot for storing the cover.

Take out the battery holder, then in the motor base is a space for the drive cover.


OM_Cover.jpg


Failing that they are often on ebay.
 
Thanks John :)

What a genius design!...unfortunately there is no cap in there though.
Will check ebay, thanks bud
 
BTW I got some Portra 400 and Ilford HP5...does this mean I should always have the asa dial at 400? Or do I have some creative options with the use of this dial?
Appreciate the pointers,

Cheers,

Paul
 
pauloroids said:
BTW I got some Portra 400 and Ilford HP5...does this mean I should always have the asa dial at 400? Or do I have some creative options with the use of this dial? Appreciate the pointers, Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...

Yep, set the dial to iso 400 and then your meter ( if the battery has juice) will give you a decent starting point for correct exposure.
 
pauloroids said:
BTW I got some Portra 400 and Ilford HP5...does this mean I should always have the asa dial at 400? Or do I have some creative options with the use of this dial?
Appreciate the pointers,

Cheers,

Paul
Click to expand...

Normally set the ASA dial to the ISO setting.

Portra 400 though will happily tolerate 3 stops of overexposure (therefore down to ISO 50) to 2 stops of underexposure (ISO 1600) with normal developing, with only minimal increases in grain and contrast when underexposing. It really is a very flexible film and one of the best that I've every used.

General rule is that negative films are fine with overexposure (up to about 2-3 stops), but degrade in quality with underexposure (you'll get a result but there will be loss of dynamic range and increases in grain and contrast). Positive (slide) films on the other hand are very intolerant to overexposure (and also more than a little underexposure too as they are very exposure sensitive).

Have fun.
 
You will find a load of Oly. info. here.

Sadly, I even have it all on CD, how's that for geekiness ?

:nuts:
 
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