Nikon + SB-600. Remote flash question

markbingo

markbingo

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Hey there, thanks for reading my question!

I have a Nikon D90, and (amongst other things) an SB-600 flash.

I would like to take some photos where the ONLY light source is the SB-600 whilst it is off camera to the models side. But the problem is, the SB-600 will only fire with the shutter, if the Master (on board) flash fires too. It seems to react to the master flash as its signal to fire.

This of course ruins my shot since the onboard camera is pointing directly at the models face.

Question: Does anybody have any ideas on how I can get ONLY the SB-600 to fire for the actual shot?
Or
Is there an efficient way to stop the light from the onboard flash going forwards (and ruining the shot) whilst still able to trigger the remote SB-600 ?

Any ideas anybody?

FYI: I dont have a TTL cord, or a separate wireless trigger.
 
markbingo said:
Hey there, thanks for reading my question!

I have a Nikon D90, and (amongst other things) an SB-600 flash.

I would like to take some photos where the ONLY light source is the SB-600 whilst it is off camera to the models side. But the problem is, the SB-600 will only fire with the shutter, if the Master (on board) flash fires too. It seems to react to the master flash as its signal to fire.

This of course ruins my shot since the onboard camera is pointing directly at the models face.

Question: Does anybody have any ideas on how I can get ONLY the SB-600 to fire for the actual shot?
Or
Is there an efficient way to stop the light from the onboard flash going forwards (and ruining the shot) whilst still able to trigger the remote SB-600 ?

Any ideas anybody?

FYI: I dont have a TTL cord, or a separate wireless trigger.
Click to expand...

If you go to the Custom setting menu item e2 - Flash control for built in flash and in the Commander mode set the built in flash mode to --. This fires the built in flash at minimum power. If this is still too much, I believe there is a filter for the internal flash that only lets through IR light, stll enough to control the SB600, but not enough to affect exposure.

Edit: This is the filter:
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-nikon-sg-3ir-ir-replacement-panel-for-built-in-flash/p1030321
 
Last edited:
jomike said:
If you go to the Custom setting menu item e2 - Flash control for built in flash and in the Commander mode set the built in flash mode to --. This fires the built in flash at minimum power. If this is still too much, I believe there is a filter for the internal flash that only lets through IR light, stll enough to control the SB600, but not enough to affect exposure.

Edit: This is the filter:
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-nikon-sg-3ir-ir-replacement-panel-for-built-in-flash/p1030321
Click to expand...

That, sir, is EXACTLY what I wanted to be able to do! I just tried the setting as you described, and it is perfect. :clap:

I will now have a play, and if I still need to reduce, I will get that item you linked to.

Thank you VERY much indeed :D
 
Just before logging on I had asked a visiting friend the same question, I wanted to do a "proper" portrait of my grand-daughter who had recently had her brace removed. In the "old" days when I used a brolly-flash with the gun ( a Vivitar 283) I attached the gun to the camera with the cord and worked out the exposure by measuring the distance from the gun to the brolly and adding to the distance from the brolly to the model, and from memory it usually worked out to f5.6 using Fp4 rated at 200ASA.
Now I use a Nikon D50 and a Nissan 622 flash gun and I couldn't figure out how to use the gun of the camera without also using the camera's flash, which as you say would have destroyed the effect. Will the answer be the same with my set-up as with the D90 and SB600 as in the original thread?
Iv'e just re-read the original answer and realised I don't have the same command control on my flash gun, so can anyone please advise how I can achieve the same results with my set-up?
Ps, I love your picture Mark.
 
Last edited:
madmardle said:
Just before logging on I had asked a visiting friend the same question, I wanted to do a "proper" portrait of my grand-daughter who had recently had her brace removed. In the "old" days when I used a brolly-flash with the gun ( a Vivitar 283) I attached the gun to the camera with the cord and worked out the exposure by measuring the distance from the gun to the brolly and adding to the distance from the brolly to the model, and from memory it usually worked out to f5.6 using Fp4 rated at 200ASA.
Now I use a Nikon D50 and a Nissan 622 flash gun and I couldn't figure out how to use the gun of the camera without also using the camera's flash, which as you say would have destroyed the effect. Will the answer be the same with my set-up as with the D90 and SB600 as in the original thread?
Iv'e just re-read the original answer and realised I don't have the same command control on my flash gun, so can anyone please advise how I can achieve the same results with my set-up?
Ps, I love your picture Mark.
Click to expand...

The D50 is not capable of using the on board flash as a commander, only the D70 and up have this feature. It only works with the Nikon SB600,700,800,900 flashes

Your alternatives to triggering optically are a cord or radio triggers, or the Nikon SU800 commander, or SB800 or 900 acting as a commander to SB600s or up, but that would get pricey.
 
Thanks folks,
The flash cord sounds the cheapest option, I don't want (read can't afford) the more expensive methods just for a couple of portraits, I don't do as many as I did years ago and just wanted to do better than bounce flash which is a bit hit and miss. Another friend has just offered to loan me his SB600 but from one of the answers it seems even then I couldn't use off camera with the D50.
(He also offered to lend me his D300 but I declined as it would have probably spoil the D50 for me as I am already unhappy with the small screen)
 
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