Nikon FM2 - can’t pull up lever to open door

Raymond Lin

Raymond Lin

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I just shot my first role of Velvia in Hong Kong.

Pressed the button at the bottom, rewind the film, heard it go back to the canister but I cannot seem to open the door.

I can’t pull up the lever or flip the switch under the lever…not either first, not together. It seems stuck, help!
 
Argh, just noticed why! And I remember how it happened!

I had the camera in my bag and hung it up on the back of the hook on the toilet door as I was taking a wee.

Then I heard the bag drop to the floor. Checked my X100 VI and it was fine, didn’t think to check the FM2 assuming it being all metal it is also fine.

In fact I shot the whole film without problem and now looking closely I notice this.

bgWORb6.jpg


4abwx6p.jpg


This is the 2nd trip in a row now where I tried to shoot film and broke a camera….i think fate is trying to tell me something.

Another insurance claim….they are going to love me!
 
Is it worth claiming ? They are fairly cheap now .
 
Raymond Lin said:
Argh, just noticed why! And I remember how it happened!

I had the camera in my bag and hung it up on the back of the hook on the toilet door as I was taking a wee.

Then I heard the bag drop to the floor. Checked my X100 VI and it was fine, didn’t think to check the FM2 assuming it being all metal it is also fine.

In fact I shot the whole film without problem and now looking closely I notice this.

bgWORb6.jpg


4abwx6p.jpg


This is the 2nd trip in a row now where I tried to shoot film and broke a camera….i think fate is trying to tell me something.

Another insurance claim….they are going to love me!
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Well I wrap my cameras and lenses in bubble wrap in my back pack, also when not using a back pack but camera bag to stop camera and lenses hitting each other.
 
I am home now, and even with a screwdriver trying to "leverage" it and lift the dial, it wouldn't come up...and with it not coming up, I can't turn the little arrow switch that opens the backdoor.....

I used quite a bit of force, anymore and the plastic dial might crack.
 
Not looking good. Last chance saloon would be to lift the chrome winding lever and try to unscrew the retaining screw (you will have to brace the tension against the film so it would be tricky). Once the rewinding knob assembly is removed a paperclip bent through 45 degrees can maybe slide in (you have to angle it around the bend) and pull up on the release catch. I've done this a number of times but it's not guaranteed to work especially if the internal catch is being held captive by the dent.



If it won’t open by any means then the camera is pretty much toast, what use is a camera you can’t open? At that point you might have to pry the back open, you might get lucky and not damage the back…
 
Mostly Vintage Cameras said:
Not looking good. Last chance saloon would be to lift the chrome winding lever and try to unscrew the retaining screw (you will have to brace the tension against the film so it would be tricky). Once the rewinding knob assembly is removed a paperclip bent through 45 degrees can maybe slide in (you have to angle it around the bend) and pull up on the release catch. I've done this a number of times but it's not guaranteed to work especially if the internal catch is being held captive by the dent.



If it won’t open by any means then the camera is pretty much toast, what use is a camera you can’t open? At that point you might have to pry the back open, you might get lucky and not damage the back…
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Since the plan is to claim on the insurance and get a replacement so this will be a paperweight. If the door can't be opened then it is basically a paper wight anyway., so I am tempted to use a larger screwdriver to pry the door open directly rather than get it to open via the dial and door opening turn button.
 
Before attacking it best take photos as it is now as the insurance co may need them for the claim.
 
F1.2 said:
Before attacking it best take photos as it is now as the insurance co may need them for the claim.
Click to expand...

Oh yes, I have some already but just taken some more. The damage I think is best illustrated with this photo I think. It is bent quite significantly where the impact was. It is totally compressed

kEzvt9Ih.jpg


qEtQ3xMh.jpg
 
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I had also taken this before the trip where it is straight. Although annoyingly the strap is blocking most of it!

PQmbJqsh.jpg
 
I don't and never have owned a Nikon, is the problem that the rewind shaft needs to be lifted to clear the back release? If so would removing the rewind knob by turning it against the direction on the rewind arrow help you to gain access to the back release? Or do I misunderstand the problem?
 
zx9 said:
I don't and never have owned a Nikon, is the problem that the rewind shaft needs to be lifted to clear the back release? If so would removing the rewind knob by turning it against the direction on the rewind arrow help you to gain access to the back release? Or do I misunderstand the problem?
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In order to open the "door", 2 things need to happen.

1 - lift up the winding shaft
2 - turn the dial on the collar.

This is to prevent accidental opening of the door. But the shaft can't be lifted up, which prevents the turning of the button on the collar.
 
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Maybe use some vise grip pliers to get some more leverage on the release collar.

Also for the future, use something like a Heroclip (https://gearaid.eu/pages/heroclip) to hang your bags instead of relying on the hooks on stall doors, I have one on each of my camera bags and they're really useful and more secure than using the stall hooks. I even hang cameras off of one when I shoot tethered and I don't want to set the camera down on dirt/sand.
 
Raymond Lin said:
In order to open the "door", 2 things need to happen.

1 - lift up the winding shaft
2 - turn the dial on the collar.

This is to prevent accidental opening of the door. But the shaft can't be lifted up, which prevents the turning of the button on the collar.
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but not in that order unless its different from the fm2n
 
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donut said:
but not in that order unless its different from the fm2n
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It doesn't do it in either order unfortunately. The collar switch is completely stuck in its position, can't go either direction.
 
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Well I have the FM and looking at your pictures it seems that the top plate, where it was dropped, has lifted up and maybe preventing the security lock from turning.......If the insurance pay out and you keep the camera, then I would tap that part back down to see if that helps....a last resort (as you have been paid to buy another one) is to take the pin out of the hinge and force the back open to get your film out
 
GetBusyLiving said:
Don't force it, just get a bigger hammer :D; sorry, that doesn't help :kiss:
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Years ago when film cameras were going for peanuts, I used a hacksaw on a Nikon camera as the lens release button jammed and the lens was worth more than the camera. o_O:rolleyes:
 
You might be lucky enough to get the top off and fettle it. Maybe that would take pressure of the mechanismo? The top covers usually seems to be relatively easy to get off with the right tools.
 
PeterSpencer said:
You might be lucky enough to get the top off and fettle it. Maybe that would take pressure of the mechanismo? The top covers usually seems to be relatively easy to get off with the right tools.
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re top plate....It might be a problem at the film rewinder end Peter as to unscrew the rewinder (to remove other parts underneath) you have to grip the shank (bit that fits into the film) and without the back open.......................
 
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Have you tried removing the top plate securing screw beneath the rewind lever? It looks like that has been compressed, so could be binding against the door unlock mechanism.
 
I suspect it's the mark down because the camera is old - presumably a percent deducted year by year as it gets further from the date of manufacture.
 
And don't forget to tell ALL your insurers about this claim. Part of your risk is your willingness to claim.
 
What is the £160 claim for ?
 
Silly question but have you tried pushing the door closed before trying to open it? I'm wondering if pressing it tightly closed will easy the pressure on the catch.
 
It would be nice to think you could save it, somehow. Assuming you can get the top off it must be possible to repair the dent.
 
I’d probably complain to the insurance company. Your value of £159 is already depreciated (assuming it was the second hand value) so to discount it again is harsh.
 
The claim excess at £80 killed your claim.
 
eoSimon said:
I’d probably complain to the insurance company. Your value of £159 is already depreciated (assuming it was the second hand value) so to discount it again is harsh.
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If the policy is one that offers full restitution, then the price at purchase would be the amount refunded.

Many policies, however, refund the value at the time of the incident. In the case of a second hand item, this would be the price at purchase less the depreciation from the time of purchase to the time of the event.

There are many variations, so it is best to make all communications in writing.
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
If the policy is one that offers full restitution, then the price at purchase would be the amount refunded.

Many policies, however, refund the value at the time of the incident. In the case of a second hand item, this would be the price at purchase less the depreciation from the time of purchase to the time of the event.

There are many variations, so it is best to make all communications in writing.
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Agree and it could be worth while showing prices to buy a FM2 from reputable shops e.g Grays of Westininster or Ffordes etc..erm but on checking they do not have FM2 for sale :(
 
F1.2 said:
The claim excess at £80 killed your claim.
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When i claimed for the OM2 a couple years ago, same provider, there was no excess....they must have updated the policy and I just didn't check!
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
Many policies, however, refund the value at the time of the incident. In the case of a second hand item, this would be the price at purchase less the depreciation from the time of purchase to the time of the event.
Click to expand...
My point is that the second hand value has probably reached its ultimate residual value. It shouldn’t decrease to zero over time.
 
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