Nikon D7000

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John
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Hi all, first time on the forum and as you can guess by my question 'a novice'
D7000 is it a full frame camera and will I be limited to which Lens I can use? I like landscape, nature and sport photography.

Look forward to any replies
 
Hi and welcome to TP:wave:

The D7000 is a DX (crop) camera but the D700 is full frame - which one do you mean.

For the crop camera you can use full frame lenses and DX lenses but for the full frame the DX lens will give a reduced size image as they are optimised for the cropped sensor. I think on some of the FF cameras do have a crop mode that allows you to use DX lenses but at a reduced MP count.

Nikon also has a very good ability for backwards compatability meaning that most of the older lenses will work to some extent on the newer bodies - somtimes they don't meter or may be only MF but it depends on the camera and lens.

Hope this helps.

Nick
 
The D7000 is a crop camera, but don't let that put you off unless you're really after a full frame camera.

The D7000 is compatible with a vast range of Nikon lenses thanks to it's built in focus motor which means a lot of older lenses will autofocus on the D7000.
 
Hi all, first time on the forum and as you can guess by my question 'a novice'
D7000 is it a full frame camera and will I be limited to which Lens I can use? I like landscape, nature and sport photography.

Look forward to any replies

Hi John,

This is a very big generalisation ;), but if you like landscape, nature and sport photography, you might be better of with a 'crop sensor' (i.e. not full-frame) camera, like the D7000 (in Nikon's case). The smaller sensors record a smaller area of the image (but still at high resolution) than a full frame sensor, but they are not as effective at showing shallow Depth of Field (i.e. very blurry backgrounds) as a larger sensor, or at giving you very wide angle shots (unless you use special UWA 'DX' lenses).

So, for sports and nature, the 'magnification' effect of the D7000's sensor would be ideal and its high resolution (16MP) sensor will make for some very detailed landscape shots :).

The D700 (full frame), on the other hand, would be better suited to portait work (where shallow DOF is often more desirable) or photo journalism, where the good image quality at high ISO levels means that you can get decent pictures without using a flash in dimmer areas where a 'lesser' camera might not produce any usable images at all :shrug:.

Other benefits of the D7000 are lower price, cheaper lenses, smaller/lighter camera body and lenses and it also has a movie mode and a cool built-in HDR function :).

Hope you find what you want ;).
 
I always thought the Depth of field was down to the lens and not influenced by the sensor? Do you have any more info on this or some comparison shots using the same lens/settings on DX vrs Full Frame please?
Cheers
 
Boingti, it's certainly possible to achieve a nice bokeh with a crop sensor. It's just easier to achieve with a full frame sensor.

I'm sure that the same shot, taken using the same lens, same aperture etc on a crop and full frame camera would yield a smoother bokeh on the full frame camera.
 
I always thought the Depth of field was down to the lens and not influenced by the sensor? Do you have any more info on this or some comparison shots using the same lens/settings on DX vrs Full Frame please?
Cheers

The difference in the DOF possibilities (assuming that you are using the same lens on each body), is that with a DX (smaller) sensor, you would have to position the camera at a greater distance from the subject in order for it to fill the frame than you would if shooting onto the larger (FX) sensor. This changes the ratio of distances from focal plane>subject>background (assuming that you actually have a background ;)).

Imagine that you are shooting a head and shoulders portrait with a 50mm f/1.8 lens (wide open) and you mount it on an FX body. You would probably be standing, what, about 1m away to fill the frame with your subject :shrug:. At that sort of (short) distance, your DOF scale (if you have one on your lens) will give you a shallower value than at a greater distance. Taking the same lens and mounting it on a DX body, then trying to achieve the same subject framing, would require you to step back to (I would guess) somewhere in the region of half as far again (i.e. 1.5m) :shrug:, altough I don't swear by the maths that I've used there :D.

The point is, that full frame generally means being closer to your subject and crop sensors are better for 'far off' stuff. That's why I suggested that the OP went with a crop sensor, because most of his preferred styles involve distance subjects :).
 
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