Nightclub Photography - A Basic Guide

bass_junkie83

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I have put this guide together because lately i have been getting more and more requests from people, on here and elsewhere asking for advice and tips on this topic. I have picked up a lot from this forum, and it will be good to be able to give a little back that may help someone else.

I have made some minor updates and additions to this guide. At the time, I could not edit this post, so if you want to read the most current version, it is up on my blog as linked below.

http://www.photographerinessex.com/blog/a-guide-to-nightclub-photography/


Introduction

Firstly, a little background to myself. I have been doing club work for a little over a year now. It all started at a vintage VW show up at Santa Pod Raceway where in the evenings there were a couple of marquees for night time entertainment. After far too many beers round the bbq, it seems like a great idea to take an expensive camera into what was essentially a rave and carry on partying. :bonk:
Fortunately i walked away from that without anything expensive damaged, but also a load of shots i was rather happy with.

From there i got into a few small bars, working for mates (not to be paid) etc to build up experience. Eventually i had the opportunity to get into a club working as their resident tog.
I have now been there for 11 months, working a basic three nights a week and have built up a good rapport with the staff and regular punters. My photos are used for the clubs website, their facebook page and for general advertising.



This is going to be pretty much just a technical article. I'm not going to go into the business side of things, who you should or shouldn't work for, how much you should charge etc. That's entirely down to you.

I am simply going to go through everything that i think is relevant, based on things i have learnt and picked up to date myself. Some of it may be teaching you to suck eggs, some may not so take from it what you will.
There is nothing new or different to how you would set up for a shot anywhere else, you just tend to take things to extremes a bit more inside a club which i find actually makes life easier.
Different people have their own take and opinion on how it should be done. Most will use flash, some prefer not to.
All my stuff is done with flash, so if that's not your bag this may not be much use to you.




The essential kit you are going to need is this.
  • A camera (i did say i may teach you to suck eggs. :nuts: ) Any camera will do, i started off with a 400D myslef. But as you will see later, the better the iso handling of your body, the easier things become.
  • A lens. Something in the standard kit range, 18-50mm ish is fine. Personally i prefer to go wide, the 10-20mm range is great. My reasons for this is a) because in a busy club you cant always step back to capture all you want in one frame, and b) smoke. Smoke is made up of solid particle floating in the air. The more of this dirty air between the lens and the subject, the more it impacts on image quality.
  • A flash gun.
  • A uv filter. Sod any possibility of it impairing image quality, at some point someone WILL grab it/hit it/spill beer on it.


The main thing to keep in your head is that decent nightclub shots are all about capturing atmosphere. And for me, that means ambient light, and lots of it.

There are two shots below, neither particularly special, one without and one with ambient light in the background. But which one makes you feel you are in a club?

62424_433303056993_12143046993_5759175_2390775_n.jpg


33722_435838771993_12143046993_5811632_5400065_n.jpg
 
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Basic settings

Now, you are going to be shooting in manual, your P mode will be no use here. :lol:
My first job when walking into a new club will be to set up for ambient light (though still do this with the flash attached and powered on as i use ETTL).
Every club is deifferent. Some very dark, other very bright, this may differ around different area of the same club, so keep it in mind.

The amount of ambient light will be controlled by the camera. Mainly iso, but also shutter speed and aperture (but to a lesser extent as you will be keeping these within quite a tight range). Where as your subject exposure will pretty much be purely down to your flash.

The club i am in most nights is very dark with colourful lighting over the dance floor, so these settings i find suitable for that, different venues will require something different.

I will typically have iso at around 1000-1600.

While we are at it, i'll give you my basic ranges for shutter speed and aperture now. We'll go into why you may want to change these later.

Shutter speed between 1/5th -1/20th.
Aperture between f4.5 - 5.6

Once you are happy with the ambient light, then start looking at how your subject is exposed. Like i said earlier, i use ettl rather than shoot manual. But i will dial in some flash exposure compensation if needed, normally +ve.
How much is down to you, what if any diffusers you use and your own personal style. Some people may like natural, more true to life skin tones, i prefer to slightly over expose, where as others in my opinion go right over the top.

So that's your ballpark settings sorted. Now lets move on to how you may want to adjust them from shot to shot.


Control of settings to achieve a desired result

ISO
Iso as we have covered is your main control for the ambient light levels, so that is pretty self explanatory. I'm not too worried about pushing this too high because as long as your overall exposure is correct, you aren't going to see any noticeable noise as you are only going to be supplying small images.
Should the club want you to supply some specific shots for large posters etc you may want to drop the iso and think about what to do to compensate, but that's not worth worrying about now.

Shutter speed
Shutter speed i tend to keep quite slow anywhere outside of the dance floor where its darker, this again lets you pull in some more ambient light.
When you move onto the dance floor, you may find you want to increase the shutter speed a touch, especially if strobes are going off.
You can also play with much longer shutter speed, up to say a couple of second and do something with light trails, twisting the camera, zoom bursts etc.

Fast shutter. It's crisp, clear and no hint of motion blur or camera shake.
65988_441774976993_12143046993_5920468_2117117_n.jpg

Long shutter. Lots of funky goings on with the lights. But you can easily start suffering with undesired blur of the subject, light bleed and things generally just get less predictable.
63547_430762636993_12143046993_5699944_1732062_n.jpg

Aperture
Aperture i keep to f4.5. I don't go any lower as the dof is too shallow. I'll keep this for 1-2 people, and increase it as the number of people, and thus depth of the subject, increases.
For larger groups you will also want to think about upping your flash power.

Larger aperture. The dof is too shallow, you can see the guy at the back is not quite in focus.
67224_441736936993_12143046993_5919432_3857913_n.jpg

Smaller aperture. You can see there is a difference in depth between the two girls at the fron't and the one at the back, but all are in good focus.
37957_441739026993_12143046993_5919531_4166826_n.jpg


Just remember, as you change once setting, something else will need to change to counteract it and keep the overall exposure consistent.


Flash

Regarding the flash, some use it bare, some like to use a bounce card.
I for a long time used a stoffen, but have now moved over to a light sphere. That's up to you to play around with and decide what you like.
 
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What to capture?

That's the technical stuff pretty much taken care of. Lets think about composition of shots and what to actually capture.

I try to keep an eye out for anyone doing something interesting or out of the ordinary. Try to approach groups cutting some shapes on the dance floor, or necking some shots at the bar. Get in on the sly and catch these people before they clock you, because as soon as they see a camera they will stop what ever they are doing, group together and pose.
300 odd photos of people all stood in a line smiling wears thin pretty quickly.

This i find is more of a problem in the more commercial clubs where punters are attracted to you like bees around hunney.
In (what i call) real clubs, the customers are there for the music and often take no notice of the camer man.

Another simple tip, but one which is worth keeping in mind (hmm, getting to be a lot to keep in mind :lol: ) is if you are in a dark spot of a club, turn your subject to face away from the dance floor. Even if the dance floor is a long way off, there will at least be something there to throw some colour into your backgrounds.

Take a look at the shots below, which are more interesting?

Posed.
36173_435839636993_12143046993_5811673_8152190_n.jpg

Dancing shot.
64667_435836201993_12143046993_5811514_4370774_n.jpg

Drinking.
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Something quirky.
33722_435838761993_12143046993_5811630_2453818_n.jpg
 
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Sure the posed shot is pretty nice, and as much as you try they will probably make up the bulk of your set. So getting other types of shots will be important to break up the monotony for someone viewing your images.

There is plenty else to capture beside the customers. DJ's, PA's and entertainers are also really important, decent shots of these will be like gold for the promoter.
For example,


Mista Jam. (BBC Radio 1)
62220_428863961993_12143046993_5661725_847244_n.jpg

Shola Ama.
38953_412787406993_12143046993_5254372_6194418_n.jpg

Stilt walkers. (Do they look familiar? ;) )
60832_433306421993_12143046993_5759335_6193598_n.jpg
 
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Further to those, not every shot has to have someone in it. Club décor, logos etc are all good. Anything that adds a sense of atmosphere or have promotional uses are all good.

A logo for a particular night.
62890_433307186993_12143046993_5759369_7944065_n.jpg

Mix a logo in with the customers.
65443_435847706993_12143046993_5812048_7722624_n.jpg

The clubs logo.
67531_438873241993_12143046993_5871764_5701562_n.jpg

Décor from a beach party themed night.
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One thing i find clubs hate is dead space. So i try to crop tight, or arrange groups to avoid this.


Post processing

I use lightrooom for all my processing. It allows me quickly scan through all the shots taken in a night and pick out the keepers. I can then apply a preset of alterations, make individal tweaks where needed and crop. All the final images can then be resized, bordered, watermarked etc in one opperation ready to hand over tot he club.




I think that should be enough to cover the basics. Spend some time getting to grips with that lot and you will soon be able to achieve a good result in whatever situation you face.

Once you are happy with that, you can then start thinking about how you shoot, and what processing you do can be tailored to create your own style and make you stand out from the crowd.


I hope that is of some help to someone. :)
 
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Really nice read - how much of a difference with the sphere have you noticed over the stofen? having used both in clubs and can't see anything different (ambient been very very low in my shots).

what sphere do you use?
 
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Right, that's it. I think i'm all done bar checking for silly mistakes. :)
 
Nice one for doing this - not read it all properly yet, but I noticed that 'monotony' isn't spelled correctly. Sorry to be a pedant. :)
 
The funny thing about the lighting is that the superclubs generally are darker than the 'local' ones from experience.

I wouldnt say that you dont get loads of posed crap in 'proper' clubs either sadly. Its the bain of my life and I hate it.

Nice to see someone putting effort into writing something, you missed off the dont work for tilllate/dsi for free entry and ego boost so you screw over all the paid togs in the area:D
 
Really nice read - how much of a difference with the sphere have you noticed over the stofen? having used both in clubs and can't see anything different (ambient been very very low in my shots).

what sphere do you use?
I use the lambency cloudy diffuser. I find the spread of light is greater and much more even than the stoffen with less high spots. It may be that because i shoot wide and am therefore quite close, there wasn't enough space for the light to spread from the stoffen as quickly as it does from the light sphere.
The 'best' results that either can produce may not be miles apart. But i find the sphere is more consistent, i have seen a marked improvement in my keeper rate.

Brilliant write up Dave..lots of good information..
Thanks for taking the time to write this..:thumbs:
My pleasure. Makes a nice change to write from reading all the time.

Nice one for doing this - not read it all properly yet, but I noticed that 'monotony' isn't spelled correctly. Sorry to be a pedant. :)
Sorted. :)

Wow! Loads of info here! :)

Will keep me occupied for a bit! ;)
Hope it helps mate.

The funny thing about the lighting is that the superclubs generally are darker than the 'local' ones from experience.

I wouldnt say that you dont get loads of posed crap in 'proper' clubs either sadly. Its the bain of my life and I hate it.

Nice to see someone putting effort into writing something, you missed off the dont work for tilllate/dsi for free entry and ego boost so you screw over all the paid togs in the area:D
I prefer it, im my eyes a club should be pretty dark. There are a few round here that are so brightly lit all over you would think that the end of night lights were on permanantly.
 
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Good stuff.

My goto settings for club stuff were:
f4 - 5.6, 1/40th, iso 800, flash on ttl fev -0.7, stofen on flash, flash aimed up 45 degrees, centre autofocus point, AF-S, so that flash's af assist grid would come up.

you forgot one massive and vitally important word, so I'll put it here:
EARPLUGS!

oh, and by and large, there are plenty of.... abrasive personalities.... and rapid staff turnover in this industry. Get financials down on paper, always.
 
Very good writeup there - not my thing, but you deserve praise for your efforts, it all makes sense and the examples make things really easy to follow. Well done!
 
the same one I've got - I've noticed that the stofen is not great at lighting the lower part of the frame but it is a lot smaller and you don't look so much of a **** with one on lol.

I use the lambency cloudy diffuser. I find the spread of light is greater and much more even than the stoffen with less high spots. It may be that because i shoot wide and am therefore quite close, there wasn't enough space for the light to spread from the stoffen as quickly as it does from the light sphere.
The 'best' results that either can produce may not be miles apart. But i find the sphere is more consistent, i have seen a marked improvement in my keeper rate.
 
Bloody superb tutorial. Thanks Dave!

Can I ask if you ever use second curtain sync? I am sure I read about using it sometimes for nightclub togging?

I was secretly hoping you would write one of these when you posted offering tuition yesterday :naughty:

What a decent read about an area I have often wondered about. I am sure this will come in handy at some point! Bookmarked!
 
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the same one I've got - I've noticed that the stofen is not great at lighting the lower part of the frame but it is a lot smaller and you don't look so much of a **** with one on lol.
Fortunately, i have no problems withy looking like a tit.


Bloody superb tutorial. Thanks Dave!

Can I ask if you ever use second curtain sync? I am sure I read about using it sometimes for nightclub togging?

I was secretly hoping you would write one of these when you posted offering tuition yesterday :naughty:

What a decent read about an area I have often wondered about. I am sure this will come in handy at some point! Bookmarked!

No i don't use second curtain, as a general rule.

Looking at a moving car with it headlight on then yes, you are going to care about direction of travel. But moving lights in a club? Movement in one direction no different to movene in another direction when you are considering disco lights.

Plus, with second curtaqin flash, i find you end up binning more photos because people have their eyes shut or are turning away. They see the pre flash, think it's all done and then the exposure flash fires.
 
Thanks Dave,

Question answered!

Gonna go have a look at your website now.

Cheers matey :thumbs:
 
only useful for really long shutter speeds. for the most part people are ndot moving very fast especially in posed shots.


Can I ask if you ever use second curtain sync? I am sure I read about using it sometimes for nightclub togging?


!
 
That is brilliant - and I spy Nicky Blackmarket in the 3rd photograph :cool:

do you use your flash on the camera, or do you go for some of camera wired shots?

I do some of this myself and have started playing with the flash hanging off a cable, still trying to decide if I should stick with it, or use a mix of both. Depending on where I am in the club (old railway arches are a pain lol). I still have a lot to learn though, and only really do it once every few months for a mate.

I want to post up an example, but that would be a hijack...
 
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Yep. And the vocalist from Ratpack on the right.
I keep my flash on camera. I have benn tempted to try some off camera work, but i like throwing myself into the the crowd too much so like to keep a hand free for pushing people. :lol:

Go for it, you wont be hijacking. :)
 
Yep. And the vocalist from Ratpack on the right.
I keep my flash on camera. I have benn tempted to try some off camera work, but i like throwing myself into the the crowd too much so like to keep a hand free for pushing people. :lol:

Go for it, you wont be hijacking. :)

"i'm standing on the dancefloor, and i'm searching for my rizzla..."

My favourite club photo I have taken has been this one:

4850448034_17329b43cc_b.jpg


I can't even remember taking it, all I know from that time is that I had just been given a beer and was dancing with the crowd lol. I agree with you on needing a spare hand, having the flash off camera can be annoying (especially when trying to drink), may start switching...
 
This is a great post

I'm planning on taking some shots of a friend's band next weekend as a favour (in the kind of venue where you're pretty much in the band's face) and was worried that I wouldn't know what I was doing (I've only ever seriously done landscapes), so the above will come in handy for sure.

I'm glad you've pointed out the difference in diffusers too as I was unsure whether to go for the sto-fen or lambency.
 
Awesome guide man! I have just started shooting at my local SU bar on Friday nights but hoping it will turn into something a bit more regular!

Just one question though when shooting in Manual, leaving the shutter speed on like 1/20th and adjusting the aperture do I still need to change the shutter speed or will the flash compensate for this change?
 
Top "How To" there :)

Spent many nights in that club in my yoof but mainly frequent Storm now as I feel a little too old in Talk and don't even get me started on Mayhem :lol:
 
Excellent read and tutorial, many thanks for putting this together.
 
Awesome guide man! I have just started shooting at my local SU bar on Friday nights but hoping it will turn into something a bit more regular!

Just one question though when shooting in Manual, leaving the shutter speed on like 1/20th and adjusting the aperture do I still need to change the shutter speed or will the flash compensate for this change?
In theory you should, and i do try to. But i'm not religious about it. Sometimes it's just too much faffing between shots when you don't want to miss the action.


Top "How To" there :)

Spent many nights in that club in my yoof but mainly frequent Storm now as I feel a little too old in Talk and don't even get me started on Mayhem :lol:
Talk, yes it's young on a Tursday, always has been. Other nights aren't so bad.
I am a fan of Storm myself too for a night out, and it sounds like we both have the same opinion of Mayhem. :lol:
 
Cool. Can i ask how you get the blurred light effect but with an infocus subject (the Mista Jam shot for example)?
 
As explained in the guide, the camera exposes for the background, where as the flash exposes the subject.

A long exposure will give you a bright background (assuming there are some lights in their somewhere) and will also blur if there is movement.
The flash will 'freeze' the subject keeping it in focus.
 
I keep my flash on camera. I have benn tempted to try some off camera work, but i like throwing myself into the the crowd too much so like to keep a hand free for pushing people. :lol:


Have you thought of using a flash bracket that attaches to the tripod mount?

I bought an old one designed for a 35mm film camera (complete with plunger release) but it fits perfectly on my canon, as the basic design of the flash mount hasn't changed so the flash just sits on a remote cord.

It's an sturdy all metal job, with three locked, sprung positions (straight up, 45 deg and off to the side) making sure that it stays rock solid. Best of all, it cost me £11, which makes the £20+ that you have to pay for the 'cheap' modern plastic ones look like a joke.

It might be worth a look in a traditional camera shop that sells 2nd hand kit, which is where I got mine.
 
Great write up, thanks!

Basic settings


Long shutter. Lots of funky goings on with the lights. But you can easily start suffering with undesired blur of the subject, light bleed and things generally just get less predictable.
63547_430762636993_12143046993_5699944_1732062_n.jpg

This picture is great, would it be possible to provide the EXIF? The reason I ask is because I am a little confused how the subject is sharp with the shutter so slow? I'm a noob in this field, but am really interested in trying it out. Thanks
 
Great write up, thanks!


This picture is great, would it be possible to provide the EXIF? The reason I ask is because I am a little confused how the subject is sharp with the shutter so slow? I'm a noob in this field, but am really interested in trying it out. Thanks

See post #35.

I cant access any of the originals from here. I'll take a look when i get home and see if i still have the original for that one.
 
Thanks for posting this, will make for interesting reading. Any chance of turning it into a pdf? I can do it for you if you dont mind.
 
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