Neutral Density Questions

[foodpoison]

Firstly, bought the 10-20mm Sigma.
Reason I didn't put this in the other thread is it wouldn't get any attention

So, a couple of weeks back, I ordered some filters from 7DayShop, their own ones, a CircPol and 2 UV's. Work perfectly, pleased with the results.

Will be ordering a 77m Circular Polariser for this lens, but I have seen they also do their own neutral density screw in filters, but was recently considering the Cokin slide in filters.

I have four questions.
1. Will the screw in filters produce any vignetting or encroach on the visible sections of the lens, due to the huge wide angle of the lens?

2. Will the Cokin filters produce better results than the screw in filters (at a guess)?

3. What size adaptor will I need if I were to get the Cokin filter set? Would I need the 77mm adaptor ring and the P series (for lenses up to 84mm) or Z-Pro series (for lenses up to 100m)? (Bearing in mind I'll be using it on the kit lens (58mm) as well.)

4. I'm going to be using this mainly for the alps, and possibly use it some other times when I want long exposures, so what Neutral Density filter will I need?

 

[A.B.]

1. Will the screw in filters produce any vignetting or encroach on the visible sections of the lens, due to the huge wide angle of the lens?

I have had two filters on my 10-22, a hoya one with a low profile frame (in theory) and a slightly thicker jessops one, neither have ever caused any vignetting.

I did stack a UV and a CPL on it once, just to see how much I could get away with, that was a very thick combination and only caused a tiny amount of vignetting, so I wouldnt worry.

 

[mattyh]

you can use the P series with the 77mm lens, but you will see black bands down the edge of any image that you take under 12mm, which is the edge of the filter holder.

I didn;t want to pay the extra for the Z series, so sacraficed the 2mm at the wide end of the times i wanted to use filters.

You'll need:

1 x filter holder.
1 x adaptor ring for each diameter lens you own (77mm, 62mm, 58mm etc)
1 x any filter you want.

 

[RobertP]

I don't have that lens but If you already have it you can answer some of your own questions Just hold something like a thin pencil at the thread position and see if it is visible in the corner of the frame at 10mm. The cokin P will probably be more visible than the screw on. never used the Z.
Cokin type system will give you more flexibility. You can even stack filters with it... assuming you don't have vignetting problems.

Not sure why you'd need a ND for the alps. Polariser yes. I don't use plain ND filters much but when I do it seems to be the ND4 that I normally go for.

edit. typing too slow again

 

[foodpoison]

I don't have that lens but If you already have it you can answer some of your own questions Just hold something like a thin pencil at the thread position and see if it is visible in the corner of the frame at 10mm. The cokin P will probably be more visible than the screw on. never used the Z.
Cokin type system will give you more flexibility. You can even stack filters with it... assuming you don't have vignetting problems.

Not sure why you'd need a ND for the alps. Polariser yes. I don't use plain ND filters much but when I do it seems to be the ND4 that I normally go for.

edit. typing too slow again

Was told by someone that I'd need ND filters due to the brightness of the snow and the lack of detail, but thinking about it, I won't need ND

I think I'll keep with the circular polariser for the time being and pick up the cokin sometime in the future.
Cheers for the input guys, helpful as always!

 

[RobertP]

If you are shooting in a lot of snow then it is easy for the cameras metering to be fooled and under expose the shot.

CT's advice

 

[foodpoison]

I knew already about 'over exposing' the shot, to make sure the snows are white, but thought that to get the detail out of the snow, due to the brightness of it all, that my camera should wear some shades

 

[wildtracks]

You'll be fine with the CPL but watch for stopping down beyond about f11 as this lens begins to go soft with smaller apertures above f16 (as all lenses do) Don't be tempted by the bright light and f22 or even 32 scenario.

I would recommend sticking the info review part of the playback on histogram so you can check for blown highlights after every shot. You'll need it in the alps!

Don't forget to post some images when you get back, make us all jealous

 

[Chief Wiggum]

I use the Cokin 'P' system with my 10-22 and only get issues with the CPL under 12mm, the only times I've had problems with the ND's and grads is if the holder is rotated slightly then you see it in the photograph, but not through the viewfinder (damn 95% of frame!) That's with using the wide-angle holder - I've heard of problems using the normal holder (nothing that can't be fixed with a hacksaw - works out cheeper too )

Kev