Beginner Neutral Density Filters?And Cleaning?

samp09

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Sam
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I am looking to purchase some neutral density filters for waterfall shots and the like and basically wondered what is recommended.Am I better off to pay around £100 for a variable filter or buy individually?I was shown a Kenko one earlier for £100 in a shop which seemed pretty reasonable but i would rather pay less to be honest.Needs to be 72mm.

Then instead of creating two threads what is recommended for lens/filter cleaning?I have seen cheap kits on Ebay but not sure if these are any good or if i will risk damaging a lens?
Thanks for any help
 
INeeds to be 72mm.
But only if you're sure this is the only lens you'll ever want to use it with. It might be more prudent you buy a 77mm filter and a step-up ring; that gives you a bit of insurance against future lens changes.
 
Have you had a look at square filter kits, eg http://srb-photographic.co.uk/square-filters-1221-c.asp ? One filter for all lenses and easy to use multiple filters.

For cleaning both filters and lenses, after blowing away any visible dust I either breathe on them or use lens cleaning fluid for spectacles and wipe with a microfibre cloth.

Dave
 
If you buy filters buy the best you can afford, don't rush out and buy 3 cheaper filters sit on your hands and buy the square filter holders and one adapter ring for each size lens along with the filter of choice.
Later you can add to it, and in a very short time!!
Remember you bought or own a lens with top glass at the front so why cover that with cheap glass?
Obviously LEE filters are at the top in most peoples book but there are others out not quite so expensive as Lee but also not cheap.
I no I used the word cheap but when it comes down to it buy cheap and that is what you get.
Russ
 
Filters are probably the most important pieces of kit you will own aside from your camera and tripod. I’ve had 3 different sets of filters now so thought I’d give a little feedback on them, based on my personal experience, for anyone thinking of buying some.
The first set I had was the Cokin p filter set, ND2 (P121L), ND4 (P121M) & ND8 (P121S) soft grads with an 85mm holder. I suffer with mild colour blindness so I REALLY struggled with the Cokins, even the Z-pro 100mm ones which i borrowed from someone, often posting pictures without realising the sky was purple/magenta which was very frustrating once pointed out.
I decided enough was enough, I was sick of not knowing whether a sky in my photo was purple or not, so I bought a LEE 0.9SE Grad. I hummed and harred for ages about which one to get, I do a lot of seascape stuff so thought about the 0.6HE but in the end I figured the 0.9SE would be a bit more versatile, with the 150mm height and the graduation being quite …. erm …. gradual, you have a lot of leeway for making the sky as bright or dark as you need if you’re using it for broken horizons (you even have the option of pulling it all the way down to make a solid 0.9ND filter). I found that the 0.9SE was great with no colour cast at all, but I was lacking something for clean straight horizons so the hunt for a hard edged grad began.
I couldn’t afford another LEE so a cheaper alternative was needed, I had a cheap Kood 2 stop 85mm square ND filter that worked quite well so had a look to see if they made 100mm grads, which they do, fantastic eh!
I ordered a 100mm ND4 hard graduated filter, it was about £20 so I figured if it was rubbish then its not the end of the world right? Low expectations and all……
When it arrived, I headed out for sunset on Hadrians wall. Hoping for the best but remaining conscious of the fact this was a £20 filter, I was surprised to find that it has no colour cast at all. Its as neutral as the LEE and even when stacked the colours still remain natural. I’ve since bought a Kood ND4 soft grad and a Kood ND8 soft grad and they have been spot on as well.
As for the filter holder itself, I was using a Cokin Z-pro 100mm holder with a 77mm adapter ring. I used this on my old camera with a tokina 11-16 and my new one with the 17-40L and it did have a noticeable vignette when used at the wide end of both. If the filter holder was turned at all even say 20 degrees you could begin to see it in the viewfinder as well. I changed this for the LEE foundation holder with a 77mm wide angle adapter ring which brings the filters around 7-8mm closer to the lens front element. This has made a marked improvement with little to no vignetting even when used at 17mm. Yes you can remove the Vignette in Lightroom or other editing software but that’s obviously a compromise and introduces noise into your recovered shadows etc. Half the battle is getting it as close as you can in camera so there’s minimal PP needed.
All in all, I’d say if you are looking for some decent filters, the Kood 100mm ones are a worth looking into. The Cokin z-pro filter holder and adapter ring are ok if you aren’t using a really wide lens but they work out at around £50.00 anyway so if you can I’d spend the extra £30/£35 or so and get the LEE holder with a wide angle ring, it really does make a big difference.
You can pick up a ND4 hard grad, a ND8 soft grad and if you go for the Cokin holder or similar you can have a decent setup for less than £100 which I personally think is great value. It may not sound cheap but realistically when they are as important as the equipment they’re attached to its invaluable. You can buy replica LEE holders from eBay etc but I’m not sure what they are like so can’t comment on the quality.
Sorry if you’ve spent ages reading this and not found it interesting or helpful but for those who don’t have any filters and are trying to figure out what to buy, I know its a minefield and there’s so many to choose from so hopefully this post may help.
 
thank you all for the replies.I have recently brought a canon 15-85mm lens so thats why i asked the size but the idea of a universal one with different adapters for future lens purchases sounds good!So ideally i would need a 72mm adapter plate,a 100mm square filter holder and then a 100mm square filter if i wanted a LEE filter?the £78 is not too much for the filter it seems the LEE bits needed to use it make it a lot more expensive.Is there a cheaper option for a lens adapter/filter holder but then still 100mm so i can get LEE filters?I would rather buy once than upgrade later in life.Would the 0.9 gradual filter be the most suitable for this?I want it for mostly waterfall and scenic photography,sunsets sunrises etc when in the USA and Canada so there will be a lot of lighter foregrounds and sun hopefully!Also something to help me shoot the northern lights when in Canada over winter but i am unsure what i would need for this?

Just to clear it up is 'stop' a level of something or is it how many adjustments can be made with the filter?As you can probably tell i am quite new to all of this so its a bit confusing!I apologise if this has been covered to death i couldn't find anything when looking
 
As Adrian says above try something like Kood filters first, don't go down the Lee road until you no what you really want out of filters and also how to use them.
Cokin also do some good square filters and have some good info on what each filter does.
Russ
 
Ok thank you I will try the Kood system and then when I'm traveling i can always upgrade in the states it may even be cheaper.thanks again
 
Ok thank you I will try the Kood system and then when I'm traveling i can always upgrade in the states it may even be cheaper.thanks again
'upgrade in the states it may even be cheaper' NO def not for Lee they are made in the UK so actually cheaper than states side. Anything photography states side:banana:
 
oh really?Fair enough then!I am currently looking at the KOOD 100mm system with the adapter ring then a couple of Kood filters i think this should do me well especially as i am new to it all and they sound like good quality filters. for the price of a LEE filter i can get 3/4 KOOD ones
 
Is there a welding glass thread still going? Sam might find that interesting to look at. I might try to find it later.
 
A search on here would find the welding glass threads.

For really dark ND filters they are hard to beat - you can look at the sun through them.

The drawbacks are -

You have to set a custom white balance or everything you take is going to look very green, but that is easy.

You need to find some way of getting the welding glass, which is just a rectangular piece of glass, to fit in front of your lens, but this is not impossible.

Sometimes there are imperfections in the glass that cause spots/highlights on the photos and I don't know how to solve this problem


The advantage is a piece of welding glass costs about £2.00.

Dave
 
I have an older 10 stop resin hitech filter which gives a green cast and a 4 stop that gives a magenta cast.
I've recently bought the firecrest in 10 and 6 stop and some grads; even with three stacked there's no colour cast and being glass I find they're not dust magnets like the resin ones.
More fragile if dropped but more scratch resistant....
Worth the extra to me for sure.

I've read that the Hitech prostop irnd are fairly neutral but not tried them.
It's a shame not many stores stock the Hitech range to make them easier to have a proper look at.
 
Just a tip......

If you want to photography waterfalls and get the silky water effect you really don't need to use a ND filter. Use a polarising filter to reduce reflections of wet rocks; this will also reduce exposure by 1 - 2 stops. Choose a cloudy day and set an aperture of about f16. That will give you excellent depth of field and, all things being equal, a shutter speed of about half a second, which is just about right.
 
thank you for all the tips and help I went for the Kood holder and ND8 and ND4 soft grad filters to start with.Just need to find a case for the filters to help protect them now!is it better to use a higher aperture when shooting this sort of photography?Also, in regards to sunset/sunrise photos is it a good time to use the filters then too to reduce the brightness ruining the photo?
 
thank you for all the tips and help I went for the Kood holder and ND8 and ND4 soft grad filters to start with.Just need to find a case for the filters to help protect them now!is it better to use a higher aperture when shooting this sort of photography?Also, in regards to sunset/sunrise photos is it a good time to use the filters then too to reduce the brightness ruining the photo?

A narrower aperture (large f number) will give you better depth of field but you will need to use a slower shutter speed. A wider aperture (smaller f number) will give you a poorer depth of field but consequently a shorter shutter speed and therefore it will be easier to hand-hold. It's difficult to generalise about what is "better" because it depends on what you are trying to achieve.

You have bought ND grads so the main use for them will be to balance the brightness of the sky and the foreground.
 
I had all of the Lee kit before and ended up selling it but I have The Big Stopper again except this time round I bought aftermarket holders and adapter rings form ebay. You can use the Colkin 100mm holders too if you wanted to. All in I spent about £20 for the adapter ring and the holder.

I'd always buy Lee. You get a colour cast in all filters however because Lee is high quality and made to give off a cold blue tint you can easily correct the colour cast by increasing the temperature of the photo. Others aren't so easy to do that so this is something for you to consider if you haven't already and if it's not been mentioned.
 
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