Movie Exposure

markimage

markimage

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I am on a learning curve with my 650D and movie. I had my settings at Manual - 1/50 f11 and auto ISO hoping that would cover all eventualities. I have been out filming today in bright sunshine so not easy to see results on the camera screen and todays results are way over exposed. I guess I should have used a faster shutter speed?
 
Yes don't worry about the 50 shutter speed rule! At times the faster shutter speed looks good! Maybe if you want to work at 2.8 for shallow depth of field then get an nd filter. Tiffen the best nd variable filter, then keep your f stop at 2.8 and just turn the nd lens rather than change settings. You also need a viewfinder for the sun and focus issues. Good luck
 
I would try and keep the 1/50 and use a neutral density filter to help adjust the exposure in bright conditions, or a polarizer may help if you have one of those
 
Thank you both. Is it possible to correct exposure in video editing software?
 
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You can brighten/darken and alter contrast and colour in post, but it will never look as good as a correctly exposed shoot. Also you can never regain lost image information ie blown highlights.
 
I see that ND filters are available in various stop down options. Which option should I go for, 2, 4, 8 stops?
 
By how much were your shots overexposed, that should answer your question on which ND filter you need, possibly more than one. A four stopper would reduce f16 down to an effective f5.6
 
Get the tiffen nd variable, where you can leave it on the camera, then just adjust exposure to suit your D.O.F, I like to stay at 2.8 then adjust the filter to suit.
 
Sorry don't get separate nd filters as you won't have time to swap and change just get the variable one!! Google it then it will explain
 
Thanks Bleo. Do you always use 2.8? I have been using 11 to give me a better chance of keeping in focus.
 
markimage said:
Thanks Bleo. Do you always use 2.8? I have been using 11 to give me a better chance of keeping in focus.
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Depends what you're shooting?

If you're filming something which is relatively still you could use 2.8 to get a nice shallow DOF look. But if you're shooting something moving 2.8 may be a bad idea and f8+ may be more ideal as more things will be in focus making it harder to miss focus.

Sounds like you need a viewfinder.
 
I generally close in on my work and have plenty of bokeh shots at 2.8. The isle shot bride and dad I stay at f8 and 17mm to 25mm. But the previous statement was quite correct, sometimes I feel the reason why we are all using dslr is for the bokeh look so you may as well use that 2.8 fantastic look then when you need a medium wide shot then use the f8 to f11 shots. Sometimes the look a higher shutter speed gives like through water fountains and confetti is excellent and another reason I work at 2.8 a lot cheers bleo
 
When you are filming, you should have everything on Manual rather than auto due to the lighting constantly changing while filming.

Plus, go into your picture styles and go to user and adjust your settings to:

Sharpness - All the way to the left
Contrast - All the way to the left
Saturation - Half way to the left
Colour Tone - Leave as Standard

This way you will get a better film look that you can edit easier in post with colour correction etc. Plus obviously use your white balance.
 
markimage said:
I am on a learning curve with my 650D and movie. I had my settings at Manual - 1/50 f11 and auto ISO hoping that would cover all eventualities. I have been out filming today in bright sunshine so not easy to see results on the camera screen and todays results are way over exposed. I guess I should have used a faster shutter speed?
Click to expand...

Unless you know what effect the framerate has on motion video, I'd leave it at 1/50

Auto ISO would lead to 1 stop jumps in exposure - does the camera actually let you do that?

You could have adjusted the aperture or added an ND.
 
artyman said:
You can brighten/darken and alter contrast and colour in post, but it will never look as good as a correctly exposed shoot. Also you can never regain lost image information ie blown highlights.
Click to expand...

On 8 bit video? You really have zero margin for error - get it right in camera or re-shoot.
 
Yeah, I'd stay away from PPing video fottage. You can 'grade' footage to give a specific look but if you're wanting to 'save' exposures you'll be left wanting.

Get a variable ND filter, but you don't have to be a slave to 1/50th shutter speeds - depends on the look you want. It is worth working in manual though and also, get vto know what the image on the screen looks like compared to what the final footage is - it helps you a lot.
 
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