I have done a few, using spraymount by 3M - it allows some re-positioning, and is pretty easy to use. However, I too would like to know how it really is done, so please, tell us more !!
For club competitions I get plain white mountboard from Hobby Craft. Cut that to size (usually 16"x20") with a sturdy stanley knife.
Then I measure the photo and mark on the back of the mount board the aperture I need to cut (the size of the photo minus a couple of mm on each edge).
To get the bevel edge I use a bevel mount cutter (think that too came from Hobby Craft for about £60) and cut through the back of the board following the guide lines I put down in the previous step.
I then use one strip of masking tape on the top edge of the photo to attach it to the back of the mount.
The last step is to stick another piece of 16x20 mount board to the back of the cut out mount board with 3M/Scotch photo mount.
I used to stick the photo to the back board but found that bubbles often appeared. I don't get that with the masking tape method and it's a lot less messy. Not sure if that's all clear or even if it's the 'correct' method but it works for me. If nobody beats me to it I'll do a guide with pictures next time I do some mounting and framing.
I will be mounting useing 20x16 mounting board , for club
entries to competitions.
I have just sent for a Longridge DUO System, wich looks the bees knees. Just hope i can work the thing when it
arrives.
Would still like a good tutorial on the subject though.
Failing that maybe a good book on the subject for the more fancy stuff.
Thanks again and any further help would be appreciated.
For long-term photo mounting behind glass: don't let the photo's surface touch the glass, as it will start sticking in a few years and disintegrate/destroy itself eventually. Take care that there's a millimeter or two, minimum, of air separating glass and photo.
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