Mountiain Bike tyres don't last well do they

[DG Phototraining]

Ok so I admit to not being an especially keen cyclist, but today I felt inspired to get the old MB out, dust it off, and go for a spin tomorrow

Then I noticed the tyres were all cracked, the rear especially with this midline crack running halfway around the tyre !!!





As I've only had the bike somewhere between 20-25 years I think this is a bit poor don't you ???

But after a test run around the estate for a mile or so I reckon it'll be fine I don't wanna waste money getting new tyres if I don't need to

Dave

 

[Fuji Dave]

I`d get new tyres after looking at that image.

 

[AZ6]

Ok. As a Professionally Qualified Bicycle Mechanic with over 30 years experience fixing bikes, my assessment of this is thus; if you ride this bike with this tyre, you will die.

No but seriously; just get new tyres ffs. That's perished. It's potentially dangerous. You don't want it blowing out when descending a steep hill, or in heavy traffic etc. You can buy new tyres for less than a tenner. Just make sure you get the right size, should be embossed/printed on the sidewall.

 

[Brazo]

Easily another 25 years in those.

 

[ancient_mariner]

Not sure if this is a joke or not. MTB tyres are usually a soft compound, and cracking is normal after 10 years. Buy some new ones.

 

[tijuana taxi]

What bike have you got them on?

 

[Nikon Ken]

Dave, are you sure it didn't crack when you sat on the bike!

Mine are only 15 years old and are fine.

Hope all else OK.

Ken

 

[DG Phototraining]

Ok. As a Professionally Qualified Bicycle Mechanic with over 30 years experience fixing bikes, my assessment of this is thus; if you ride this bike with this tyre, you will die.

No but seriously; just get new tyres ffs. That's perished. It's potentially dangerous. You don't want it blowing out when descending a steep hill, or in heavy traffic etc. You can buy new tyres for less than a tenner. Just make sure you get the right size, should be embossed/printed on the sidewall.

A pal of mine works in the cycling field building wheels - he was shocked by this too and recommended new ones

As it happens I bought two last night on a Click & Collect from Halfords and they are ready for collection now - so hopefully my planned ride will be on new ones later today

 

[DG Phototraining]

What bike have you got them on?

Its on an obviously old bike - a Raleigh I bought for £150 from Halfords in a sale. A really heavy bike by moderns standards, no suspension or clever brakes lol

Just washed every 4-5 years and squirted with WD40 and off I go - for a few trips before putting it away again !!!

Dave

 

[tijuana taxi]

Its on an obviously old bike - a Raleigh I bought for £150 from Halfords in a sale. A really heavy bike by moderns standards, no suspension or clever brakes lol

Just washed every 4-5 years and squirted with WD40 and off I go - for a few trips before putting it away again !!!

Dave

Thanks, I thought it might be a Raleigh from the colour of the seat stays, I had an M-Trax that looked very similar.
Retro MTB's are quite a thing, had a few myself over the years, this site is the go to place for afficianados
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/

 

[DG Phototraining]

Thanks, I thought it might be a Raleigh from the colour of the seat stays, I had an M-Trax that looked very similar.
Retro MTB's are quite a thing, had a few myself over the years, this site is the go to place for afficianados
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/

Retro bikes ??? That's a thing ??? lol

Goes to look

Dave

 

[DG Phototraining]

New tyres fitted

Quick test around the block proved two things

1 - it doesn't like downshifting, so that takes a few attempts but usually gets there, and

2 - cycling is harder than I remember !!! lol

And here's the bike for you @tijuana taxi



Ooh my photo really did a sharpening number on that, probably my 5th photo of the year on a phone though so its clear I don't know what I'm doing with that either lol

Dave

 

[AZ6]

Not sure if this is a joke or not. MTB tyres are usually a soft compound, and cracking is normal after 10 years. Buy some new ones.

He dunalf talk some crap, this one. SOME MTB tyres are of a 'softer' compound than others, but there is very little difference between bicycle tyres, as to the type of rubber. Kept inside and looked after, pumped up properly etc, bike tyres can last decades. It's leaving them exposed to big temp differences, damp, UV from sunlight, various chemicals, oils etc, that can cause degradation. I've got old tyres that must be approaching 20 years old, somewhere. Very knobbly 'mud' tyres of a slightly softer compound. Absolutely fine. Used loads of tyres that have been well over 10 years old, no problems. I've got my mum's ancient early 80s Triumph roadster in the basement; tyres are original and absolutely fine, cos the bike has been kept indoors all this time. Another thing that causes damage, is leaving tyres flat for ages; the weight of the bike sitting on the sidewalls can cause them to crack. Look for 'crazy paving' type cracks on the sides of the tyre, that's an indication they are going. Sometimes, the outer rubber starts to delaminate from the inner carcass, this can be potentially dangerous.

A pal of mine works in the cycling field building wheels - he was shocked by this too and recommended new ones

Lol! Not surprised! Big danger with those, would be possible delamination, and whilst the inner carcass should be strong enough to hold it all together (it's usually a woven material of some sort, nylon, kevlar etc), the tyre would be far more prone to being punctured, and would deflate a lot more rapidly if there's no outer rubber. Those tyres would also be deemed illegal to use on any public roads or cycle paths. I have seen worse, though, shockingly.

Retro bikes ??? That's a thing ??? lol

Yep. I have one MTB from 2000, one from around 2007, and another that is probably of a similar vintage. Got a 1990s road bike as well. Older bikes tend to be easier to fettle, and a bit simpler; current stuff is all fancy 11/12 speed gears, electronic systems, components that have proprietary fittings, and stuff that is really quite flimsy and wears out more quickly, (thus necessitating buying more stuff, kerching). Cost a bomb, too. Give me a 'retro' bike any day.

And here's the bike for you

That's alright, that. What I would suggest though, is replacing the brakes with a v-brake system. Easier to set up, and much more efficient. And make sure you check all cables and stuff for corrosion.

it doesn't like downshifting, so that takes a few attempts but usually gets there

Do you mean to an easier gear? IE, the chain moves UP the rear cassette/block? If so, you probs need to wind a bit more tension on/adjust the rear shift cable. Sounds like the whole system could probably do with as good service tbh.

 

[DG Phototraining]

Do you mean to an easier gear? IE, the chain moves UP the rear cassette/block? If so, you probs need to wind a bit more tension on/adjust the rear shift cable. Sounds like the whole system could probably do with as good service tbh.

The right hand operates the upchange with a lever on top of the handlebar, and a downchange with another one under the bar, the downchange lever sometimes just doesn't move anything then catches and works fine. In my wee test earlier it did nothing for 3-4 attempts then changed as it should

I'm off out now, no real hills to worry about so I don't expect to need to change gear too often, we'll see

Cheers

Dave

 

[AZ6]

The right hand operates the upchange with a lever on top of the handlebar, and a downchange with another one under the bar, the downchange lever sometimes just doesn't move anything then catches and works fine. In my wee test earlier it did nothing for 3-4 attempts then changed as it should

I'm off out now, no real hills to worry about so I don't expect to need to change gear too often, we'll see

Cheers

Dave

Ah right. 7 speed system? All in one brake lever and gear shifter units?

Could be a slack gear cable, or it could just be gummed up/worn internals in the shifter unit. The latter can often be sorted by spraying a bit of WD40 or similar into the shifter body, there should be a small cross head plastic screw about 6mm diameter, that comes out to removed the gear cable; you can try spraying in from there. If, when you shift right down to your smallest rear cog, is the cable slack? If so, undo the bolt on the derailleur, and pull the cable through until it's taut. Then do the bolt up again. Seems like it's more likely a gummy shifter though tbh. A pic of the shifter unit would be helpful.

 

[DG Phototraining]

Cheers @AZ6 most helpful

Just back from a sweaty 11 mile ride so bath needed lol

The down change worked fine, it just didn't always work first time but it got there after 2-3 goes. I'll take a look at it tomorrow with your comments in mind and take a snap then too - thanks

Dave

 

[ancient_mariner]

The right hand operates the upchange with a lever on top of the handlebar, and a downchange with another one under the bar, the downchange lever sometimes just doesn't move anything then catches and works fine. In my wee test earlier it did nothing for 3-4 attempts then changed as it should

Based on past experience, often the cables get a little rusty inside the outer sheath, especially on long storage. A bit of WD40 or 3 in 1 can free things off, but it doesn't last, and replacement is the only real fix. If the gears are changing eventually after a short period or a couple of tries then it's likely the cable is adjusted OK but just sticking. It *could* be the derailleur, so worth giving a squirt of lube, anyway.

Enjoy your 'retro' bike.

 

[AZ6]

Based on past experience, often the cables get a little rusty inside the outer sheath, especially on long storage. A bit of WD40 or 3 in 1 can free things off, but it doesn't last, and replacement is the only real fix. If the gears are changing eventually after a short period or a couple of tries then it's likely the cable is adjusted OK but just sticking. It *could* be the derailleur, so worth giving a squirt of lube, anyway.

Enjoy your 'retro' bike.

Except that if the 'upshift' is working fine, this would suggest the cable is probs ok. But maybe worth a squirt of WD40, yes.

It is well worth getting someone with good bike mechanicking knowledge to give it a once over. Your wheel building mate, praps? It does sound like it needs a safety check if nothing else. Worth every penny, if you value your personal safety.