More Bike Advice

Bristolian

Bristolian

Suspended / Banned
Messages
4,428
Name
Steve
Edit My Images
Yes
Hi folks,

I was recently given a Ridley Supercross bike in lieu of payment for a job I did for a neighbour. It's not new by any means and it had been laying in a garden unused for a couple of years but its gotten me interested in cycling again. Having given it a damned good service and replaced gear and brake cables, etc., I'm steadily extending my ride distance to the point where I thought I'd buy a drinks bottle and holder - now that's where the trouble starts as there aren't any mounting points on the frame.

This is the bike as it was when being "stored" in my neighbours garden. It looks better now :)
Ridley_1.jpg
I've had a look on Amazon (my go-to place for ideas) and there are a few options but how do I know which one actually works? So, I thought I'd come to my learned friends here on TP to ask if anyone has any suggestions/recommendations?
 
Plenty of water bottle options with straps nowadays
 
You can buy mount clips fpr a bottle cage or something specific like the the DMR hinged clamps or the topeak versa clamps. The only thing you'll need to measure is the diameter of the frame to make sure any mount will fit it.
 
stumac said:
Plenty of water bottle options with straps nowadays
Click to expand...
Hi Stuart,

Indeed there are, that's why I was asking for recommendations - it's more productive than trial and error :)
 
Obsima said:
You can buy mount clips fpr a bottle cage or something specific like the the DMR hinged clamps or the topeak versa clamps. The only thing you'll need to measure is the diameter of the frame to make sure any mount will fit it.
Click to expand...
Hi Obsima,

Thanks for the suggestions. The DMR clamps look good but my down tube isn't round. I do like the look of the Topeak Versamount though and might get a set from Amazon.
 
Has anyone ever tried fitting rivnuts to a bike frame? I watched a Youtube video of someone doing that to provide bottle mounts on an older frame and having used rivnuts on Land Rovers in the past thought it might make an elegant solution.
 
Bristolian said:
Hi Stuart,

Indeed there are, that's why I was asking for recommendations - it's more productive than trial and error :)
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry I should have gave more detail . To be honest it's only a strap so don't think there would be any bad ones but if you want the best IMO then google fidlock strap bottle holder
 
Whilst the top of the downtube is possibly the least stressed place, given the oval section and the USP of the bike (light, so thin walls) I would hesitate before drilling the tube for rivnuts. Can I also note, the setup with the dropped saddle and extra long stem looks like it might be able to be improved if you have comfort issues riding.

The seat tube looks relatively safe (round, unstressed) but that would put it in an inconvenient place. Bar bottle holders are your friend here.

ETA - you could do worse than £5 from Decathlon https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/fabric-handlebar-bottle-cage/_/R-p-168751
 
Last edited:
stumac said:
Yeah sorry I should have gave more detail . To be honest it's only a strap so don't think there would be any bad ones but if you want the best IMO then google fidlock strap bottle holder
Click to expand...
No worries Stuart, and thanks for the suggestion of the fidlock - it looks interesting :)
 
Ham said:
Whilst the top of the downtube is possibly the least stressed place, given the oval section and the USP of the bike (light, so thin walls) I would hesitate before drilling the tube for rivnuts. Can I also note, the setup with the dropped saddle and extra long stem looks like it might be able to be improved if you have comfort issues riding.

The seat tube looks relatively safe (round, unstressed) but that would put it in an inconvenient place. Bar bottle holders are your friend here.

ETA - you could do worse than £5 from Decathlon https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/fabric-handlebar-bottle-cage/_/R-p-168751
Click to expand...
Hi Ham,

I'm not inclined to try the rivnut route despite being a bit of a dab hand at fitting them. Wrecking the frame would be all too easy :(

The handlebar stem in the photo has been replaced by a shorter one as I have having reach problems which did indeed give me comfort issues. That saddle is also long gone and replaced by one with a groove for added soft tissue comfort but I can't raise it up any further because in all honesty the frame is too big for me. I can't grumble though seeing as the bike was basically free :)
 
Bristolian said:
....in all honesty the frame is too big for me. I can't grumble though seeing as the bike was basically free :)
Click to expand...

Well, you can always get your money back ,then ;)

The position of the saddle seemed to suggest that it might be the wrong size. Here's a couple of additional things you might be able to try, dependent on parts availability, I wouldn't suggest spending money on the offchance.

First thing to do is switch the saddle post to a straight one, the one in the pic has layback, that will bring you nearer the bars, improve your balance and pedal stroke in all likelihood, and may mean you can lift the saddle slightly.

Next, something you may have done if you have changed the stem, the stem and bars in the picture are just wrong, best comfort is normally when the stem and bars are flat - in the pic it goes up and down. The stem needs flipping, and the bars twist up, riding on the hoods should be comfortable and relaxed.

Finally, you likely have 175mm cranks. 172.5 or even 170 off a small bike may be a help. The loss of low gearing should not be too noticeable, and it may help all things fall into shape.
 
Another option is a bracket that attaches to the saddle rails and allows you to fit a bottle cage behind the saddle.
 
mav said:
Zefal do one attaches to the down tube have had one on my cross bike for 10 years, or so you can get saddle mount ones as well
Click to expand...
Hi Mav,

Thanks for responding. I have the Zefal Gizmo Universal in my Amazon shopping list (y)
 
Ham said:
Well, you can always get your money back ,then ;)

The position of the saddle seemed to suggest that it might be the wrong size. Here's a couple of additional things you might be able to try, dependent on parts availability, I wouldn't suggest spending money on the offchance.

First thing to do is switch the saddle post to a straight one, the one in the pic has layback, that will bring you nearer the bars, improve your balance and pedal stroke in all likelihood, and may mean you can lift the saddle slightly.

Next, something you may have done if you have changed the stem, the stem and bars in the picture are just wrong, best comfort is normally when the stem and bars are flat - in the pic it goes up and down. The stem needs flipping, and the bars twist up, riding on the hoods should be comfortable and relaxed.

Finally, you likely have 175mm cranks. 172.5 or even 170 off a small bike may be a help. The loss of low gearing should not be too noticeable, and it may help all things fall into shape.
Click to expand...
Hi Ham,

Many thanks for your comments/suggestions - they tie in with what I have been reading and seeing on YT. Since my last post I have booked myself in for a bike fit next weekend so I'll wait and see what they recommend. I don't mind spending some money on this bike if it makes it more comfortable.
 
Hi Andy,

Yes, I saw that when I was looking originally and it is in my shopping list on Amazon. I've ordered the Zefal Gizmo Universal and will see how that works out first (y)
 
Apologies for resurrecting this thread but i could do with some more advice. So, I had a bike fit the other day and as expected the frame of my Ridley is way too big for me - it's a 60cm and I should be riding something in the 54/55cm region. This throws the reach off too and to top it all the cranks are too long. The shop were very complimentary about the condition of the running gear, wheels, chain, etc., so that's something I suppose.

My question is, if you were in my position would you sell this bike and get another or would you buy a replacement frame and build all the existing cycle parts on to it?

Just to say, I'm a dab hand with the spanners and building up a bike doesn't bother me in the slightest.
 
Sell, buy something that fits if you want to enjoy using it. All indications pointed that way.....
 
With cantilever brakes i’d say sell it complete as otherwise you’ll be hunting for a very specific frame.
 
60cm what sizing is that, I'm not familiar with how you size a road bike. MTB it would just be based off reach and stack mostly.

I always build my own bikes so I'd replace the frame.
 
robj20 said:
60cm what sizing is that, I'm not familiar with how you size a road bike. MTB it would just be based off reach and stack mostly.

I always build my own bikes so I'd replace the frame.
Click to expand...
It's the length of the seat tube measured from the centre of the crank spindle to the top of the tube.
 
robj20 said:
60cm what sizing is that, I'm not familiar with how you size a road bike. MTB it would just be based off reach and stack mostly.

I always build my own bikes so I'd replace the frame.
Click to expand...

I am 5'10" and used to ride a 55cm road bike frame and 53cm time trial bike frame, mountain bikes are a whole different game IMHO.
 
andya700 said:
I am 5'10" and used to ride a 55cm road bike frame and 53cm time trial bike frame, mountain bikes are a whole different game IMHO.
Click to expand...
Definitely that's what has me confused in used to picking a bike based on reach (around 470mm), stack (around 620), then seat tube needs to be about 450mm or less.
I'm 178cm (5'10) and 80cm (31") inner leg, 185cm (6') arm span. Which generally means a large.

With all that picking a road bike based off a single number seems insane to me.
 
You have to be careful with tube measurements due to compact frame geometry such as sloping top tubes which shorten the seat tube. hence the shift to stack/reach measurements. As long as you get close you can fine tune with stem lengths and spacers and saddle setback.
 
eoSimon said:
You have to be careful with tube measurements due to compact frame geometry such as sloping top tubes which shorten the seat tube. hence the shift to stack/reach measurements. As long as you get close you can fine tune with stem lengths and spacers and saddle setback.
Click to expand...

I may be a bit of a dinosaur, but I reckon these compact road frames look horrible. They also to my eye, look as though they make riders look cramped and hunched up. Just an observation, from someone who was coached by very good riders in my racing days.
I always remember seeing Ian Cammish racing, because he always looked so comfortable and efficient on the bike.

www.veloveritas.co.uk

Ian Cammish - "I'd have ridden 600 miles a week, if that's what it took"

Ian Cammish was King of British Time Trialling for all but one year of an entire decade.
www.veloveritas.co.uk www.veloveritas.co.uk
 
andya700 said:
I may be a bit of a dinosaur, but I reckon these compact road frames look horrible. They also to my eye, look as though they make riders look cramped and hunched up. Just an observation, from someone who was coached by very good riders in my racing days.
I always remember seeing Ian Cammish racing, because he always looked so comfortable and efficient on the bike.

www.veloveritas.co.uk

Ian Cammish - "I'd have ridden 600 miles a week, if that's what it took"

Ian Cammish was King of British Time Trialling for all but one year of an entire decade.
www.veloveritas.co.uk www.veloveritas.co.uk
Click to expand...
Yes he’s a TT legend. Only saw him once in a race and that was his rear wheel !
I can’t complain about the compact frame as my bike is a TCR which was the original design. I’ve adapted to the aesthetic and its a nice ride.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top