Math calibration question

KIPAX

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KIPAX Lancashire UK
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I use my 1dmkIII to calibrate and have my 300 lens set to +9 calibration.

If I add a 1.4 converter what would you say the calibration should go up to? I would have guessed about 13 :)
 
I would think you would need to recalibrate with the converter on?

The converter may need calibrating in itself.

By your theory it works out at 12.6 so 13 I guess.
 
I ahve the converter on and am taking test shots...its a long process and not an exact science :(
 
I would have thought the converter shouldn't change the focusing?

I don't know why I bother getting out of bed some days :(

I was going to post well done it was a trick question and you passed the test... But lets face it ..who am i fooling... Duh.... Your right it doesn't change the focus... Why oh why did I think like that?..

Cheers.....sigh :)
 
No worries - we all have days like those. Thank goodness my old clunker cameras don't have all this high tech stuff to confuse me!
 
Not wanting to hijack this but I'm going to calibrate my 500mm f4 this weekend any tips ?

I'll be using a really sturdy tripod and static "targets" to focus on, and am I right in making the assumption that this would work better on prime's???:shrug:
 
I find it very difficult on static subjects.

I think I am right in saying calibrate to distance and thats a good way with a 500 :) My 300 deffo needed calibrating but everything looked fine close up.. even without calibration... use object/person way off.

I calibrated my 300 using the full length of a football pitch with my son stood at one end while I took pics at different settings ( oh shush he got extra spends for it :) ) he was on a terrace and everytime i waved he moved a step to one side.. thus when i got home i could tell the different setting by the position he was in. ie orig at 0 .. next position at +1 and so on to +20

I found it easier to test looking at facial features .. and I never need to focus furthur than that.
 
Re the extender, what if it's out of focus?

Surely this will have to be taken into account as any errors will just be magnified. The extenders must have tolerance levels too!
 
No, because the camera commands the lens to move the focus. So, the callibration is about changing when the camera thinks the lens is in focus. Once calibrated, the image on the sensor should be the same as on the focus sensor. Therefore, a change from the teleconverter should not impact the callibration. In the same way as when you add an extension tube, you change the focus scale but not the point where the camera thinks the image is in focus.
 
I don't know why I bother getting out of bed some days :(

I was going to post well done it was a trick question and you passed the test... But lets face it ..who am i fooling... Duh.... Your right it doesn't change the focus... Why oh why did I think like that?..

Cheers.....sigh :)

Actually, you were going in the right direction and you do need to calibrate with the converter on. The camera senses the presence of the converter and uses the values accordingly.
The logic behind this is as follows;
A t/c doesn't affect the minimum focus distance of the lens therefore the lens must be focussing on a plane within the converter (at the rear element) and the converter doing the rest. If the converters "focal plane" is not at the exact same distance as the sensor would be (without a converter) then the two calibration values will be different.
I hope that made some sense.

Bob
 
:popcorn:


:lol:
 
If it was me I would do it with the TC on!
 
Just to eliminate any doubts, this is a quote from some "tech tips" by Chuck Westfall (Canon's North American CEO)

If an extender can be attached, the camera recognizes whether it is 1.4x or 2x and makes a different shift adjustment from when no extender is attached. When an extender is attached, the adjustment screen will display the lens name and extender name.

Bob
 
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