You don't say what/why it is more difficult or what problems you're experiencing in semi-auto. To add to what Stuart said, I would suggest setting the camera to a fixed ISO to start with (maybe 100 for decent light, 800 for low light) and then you only have two sides of the exposure triangle to play with instead of three - makes learning easier imho. I don't know how much you already know so please excuse me if the below is pitched wrong for you.
When you're in a semi-auto mode, basically you have control over one part of the exposure 'equation' - and to change that one part has particular effects/consequences. So, without going into too much analysis, if you go in to aperture-priority, you control the depth of field and if you go into shutter-priority, you alter the amount of camera-motion blur and/or subject-motion blur. Of course, when you change one, your camera will change the other to compensate - so always keep this in mind (but depending on available light, this might not always be an issue).
So when you're practising in aperture-priority mode, think primarily about controlling depth of field (whether you want all the subject in focus - blurred background etc.) and secondarily about shutter-speed and when you're practising in shutter-priority, think primarily about 'freezing' the scene or introducing motion-blur and secondarily about depth of field.
Sooner or later, you will start to get a feel for what you want to achieve and what you need to change to get it - you will also be aware of the consequences and trade-offs to get there with the correct exposure.
Take a look at this link for the basics of exposure:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-exposure.htm
And here's a link that explains how things work and affect each other but in a lot more detail:
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=440126