Lighting For Instagram Reels

paulcamcas

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Paul
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I'm just starting to video clips for Intagram Reels for my small business and would appreciate some lighting advice. The set up is as the screen grab below. Could be maybe 50% larger if the product is bigger. I'll be using my EOS R on a tripod. I have no problem with high ISO.

So far I've used daylight but I'll often need to be videoing at night so need some sort of lighting solution. I have plenty of stands, big and small modifiers, scrims etc. What light do you recommend? Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

Reel.jpg
 
I can now answer my own question :D

I went for a Nanlite FS-150 and it does an amazing job. 30% power at 1/50 F2 ISO 100 is perfect. That's with a 125cm octa.

My reasons for the choice were...

180 watts seems a better option than 60 watts. Could have managed with less but the units that have less seemed to have plenty of disadvantages.
Plug mains direct in the back, no power bricks or messy wires hanging about. Using in the studio so battery power not needed.
Sturdy double yoke so okay with big modifiers.
Very quiet fan.
Good price for the performance/quality.
Bowens mount. Elinchrom would have been better but nobody does those except Elinchrom and their LEDs are silly money.

Now I've got to sort out a mic.
 
Hi Paul,

I suspect everyone saw this was a video question :)

Glad to hear the Nanlite worked out. I looked at those a year or so ago, but you just couldn't buy them easily in the UK at the time. The chip is larger than most COB lights which limits its use a bit as far as using it with a Fresnel or projector is concerned, but makes no appreciable difference in a softbox. I think heads like this are the way to go rather than LED panels - you can make the light from an LED head bigger (softer) in a number of ways but you'll struggle to make hard light from a panel (ie make it smaller).

I don't think you'll find many takers for Elinchrom's LED lights looking at the spec of the chip tbh, and personally, I find the Elinchrom mount to be an exercise in frustration. Mainstream budget options are Aputure and Godox. Both make LED heads with Bowens mounts on them. You need to give each a rattle test, as the Bowens mount was never designed with audio in mind, so if you intend to move the light during shooting, it will be nicer if the modifier doesn't rattle. There's always gaffer tape of course :)

I'm with you on the mono-block design. The last thing I need is to have to assemble the light before we can start shooting with separate control boxes, and then a separate PSU, or battery mount.. Not to mention it then has to be carted around in a massive case with all these bits in, or you risk the wrath of the tangle fairy.. Makes the head lighter of course, but not by as much as you'd think - the battery version of the Godox SL150-II - the VL150 is only about a kilo lighter at the head at 2kg (possibly due to the lump of aluminum and fan cooling the chip). I'm almost always using LEDs inside (as tbh, heads in this price bracket are nowhere near powerful enough to beat back the sun), so there's almost always plenty of mains power around, and if there isn't, I wheel out the Godox LP800 and plug em into that.

I've been looking for a lower cost LED Fresnel head solution for a while, I have a Falconeyes 1600TDX which works well, but it is the size of a small moon, and weighs in at 5.5kg. I've recently tested a £60 Bowens mount Fresnel lens with the modelling lights on my flash heads and it works surprisingly well. It's not technically a Fresnel but a honeycomb, insect-eye design made up of lots of hexagonal lenses, but it works on the same principle. It has "Neewer" written on the side, however I have no idea who actually makes it. It makes very a nice graduated spot and acceptably crisp shadows when on full flood (ie slightly soft, but no double edges or other eye watering artefacts). This opens the door to using the much cheaper Bowens mount LED heads as opposed to dedicated Fresnel spots. Plus I then have the option to make soft light with softboxes using the same light.

On the mic, I really like my Rode Wireless Go https://www.amazon.co.uk/RØDE-Wireless-Compact-Microphone-System/dp/B07QGGBNMN/

The transmitter has a built in mic so you don't have to attach a separate lav mic (although you can if you want). Audio quality is excellent. They now have a MIKII version with two transmitters that will actually record locally in the mic as well as transmitting. This is quite frankly, the simplest and most reliable solution - as long as you don't mind syncing the audio in the edit. I use DaVinci resolve for editing and this is really really simple - just select all the clips and auto align them on the audio tracks.


If you're ever looking for comprehensive reviews and comparisons of video lights (and other video/audio gear) - Gerald Undone is the gold standard:-

Love to see your results btw - where can we find you on Instagram?

Owen
 
Hi Owen and thank you for a very informative response. I'm heavily invested in Elinchrom kit for stills so I have a range of Elinchrom fit Softboxes. Amazon delivered a perfectly serviceable Elinchrom to Bowens adapter today which works just fine. I see what you mean about rattle potential but I'm videoing the simplest thing in the studio and the light won't be moving so no problem there. That Falconeyes looks like an impressive bit of kit. I thought about panels (much lesser models than yours) but LED heads like mine made more sense to me as I already had the modifiers and a vague idea how to use them.

Not sure I'm going to have the need for a fresnel solution but I'll keep the Neewer option in mind. I just installed a couple of Neewer wall mounted boom arms and they are great for the money.

The Rode mic looks good, I'll have a read up. Thank you foe the suggestion. I was originally thinking that I'd record the video in camera to a wired mike but it dawned on me that I play with the running speed to fit the 30 sec insta reels limit so I will have to record it separately. Or perhaps I could record the audio in camera and then separate it, edit the two separately and then put them back together. I don't have much clue about this stuff. As we we only see hands syncing isn't a big issue. I use iMovie at the moment and will look up Da Vinci. Did have Premier Pro as part of the Adobe bundle but recently evicted Adobe and would rather not let them fill my computer with crap again if I can help it.

Funny you should mention Gerald Undone as I'm already a fan, I was initially intending to get an Apurture Amara 100d based on his review but there wan't one to be had anywhere at a sensible price so the Nanlite got the nod. Couldn't be more pleased with it. I've been experimenting today with product stills with it and can't see a downside. Don't think I'd use it for people but for my simple product stuff it's easy peasy. I'm going to get another one and shelve the strobes for a bit.

The insta is @wyldhome. We've got half a dozen reels done but only posted 2 so far and the first one was natural light. Our plan is to run one a day until they either work or we get bored :) Will be doing another 3 or 4 tomorrow.

Thanks again for the info.

Paul
 
Oh I don't have any panels Paul - I don't see the point of them, unless you need to get a flat light in somewhere tight. Like you, I just attach softboxes to the LED lights. Fresnels are useful if you want to emulate the look of old Hollywood lighting - you get a very nice adjustable ball of light.

I noticed there are a load of Wireless Go copies now which might be worth checking the review channels for, but I think once you've got a mic that records locally there's so much less room for failure and you can pretty much mic up everyone and have as many audio channels as you like. DaVinci is free to use with certain restrictions - the most obvious is only up to HD (1920x1080). This is fine for me. The full license is a one-time deal and I think it's around £350 (or free with any Black Magic camera). It runs really well on my 6 year old i7 3770 with HD footage.

I would tend to use strobes for stills as they still give out a cleaner light than LEDs however this has become less of a problem as the LED chip blends have improved over the years. The main downsides are that you can't freeze action with them and you need to work in a relatively dark environment - unless you want the ambient room/day light in on the action of course :) However - once you have your stills with LED - you're already setup for the video :)

Nice work btw could do with some foliage like that for our kitchen :)
 
Isn't your Falconeyes 1600TDX a big round panel? Looks a lovely bit of kit to me. Got confused with another Falconeyes product, I see yours is a spot.:exit:

Not had time to try Da Vinci but it looks a beast and great that it is free, 1920 x 1080 is perfect for Insta.

Did today's videos tethered to Canon EOS Utility which looks like something on a Commodore 64 but works surprisingly well. Makes everything very easy.

Not going to chuck my strobes as will need them if I ever photograph people again but I'm finding zero issues with using the led for products. Uncannily easy actually and results are fine.

Our sort of foliage is great in kitchens and bathrooms. However hard you try, you just can't kill them :)
 
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Oh yeah - they do make panels. DaVinci is overkill for simple clips tbh - and I probably only use 20% of it :)

Just bought a Godox SL200-II in Lencarta's mini sale. Should work well with the Fresnel and the myriad of projection attachments I now possess :-/
 
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