Light problem with my 300f2.8IS

Darryn

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Little help required, as you may know im in love with this lens, but, on Sunday when using it at Harewood I struggled with the amount of light it lets in....

I aim to use TVmode @ 1/100th Seconds shutter for most of my shots and keep to ISO100 pretty much all the time, but, at certain times during the day I was getting up to F22 at those settings, which really makes the sensor cleanliness critical. When I tried to drop back down into the f4 range my shutter speed was up at 1/2000th, which isnt too good for motorsport.

Am I right in thinking about getting an ND filter or set of, so that I can get back into f2.8-f8 range whilst keeping a reasonable slow shutter speed.... My problem being, as with all photography related issues, I know nothing.

Could someone please give me a bit of advice regarding ND filters for the 300f2.8, I know they are rear drop in, but ive never used or seen them, over the course of the day the weather, light and cloud shifted heavily so would I need to keep switching, that doesnt sound like a good idea, or simply get a quite "strong" one and put it in when the light gets too bright, maybe 3-4stops :shrug: . Also how is image quality affected? would I be better off cleaning my sensor better or just living with cloning out the bunnies?
 
I can't answer your specific questions relating to the 300mm 2.8, as unfortunately I don't got one. :)

Neutral density filters though are the answer to the problem of too much light. Using a 3 stop ND filter would give you a reduction in shutter speed from 1/2000th to 1/250th asuming you were maintaining the same aperture. If the light changed during the course of the day then you would need to change ND filters, so you'd be better off getting a set of different strengths.

ND filters have no effect on the shots themselves. The dust bunnies is a personal choice, I don't mind spotting out the odd one or two but if it's that bad you really should oughta clean it.

The problems you're getting aren't specific to the 300mm f2.8 though, you'd get the same problems with any lens. f8 is f8! In other words the aperture number is a fixed exposure value regardless of the focal length of the lens or the actual physical size of the aperture.
 
Well first thing is to go to ISO 50, you'll need to enable the ISO expansion CF in the menus first. That'll give you the option of L (50) and 3200 (H) at either end of the ISO range. It's only one stop though so you'd still be looking at f16 (if my maths is OK) for 1/100s exposure.
 
LOL Well done - I only just noticed he's using a 1D MK2. Your maths is OK.:D
 
Well first thing is to go to ISO 50, you'll need to enable the ISO expansion CF in the menus first. That'll give you the option of L (50) and 3200 (H) at either end of the ISO range. It's only one stop though so you'd still be looking at f16 (if my maths is OK) for 1/100s exposure.

Yes but still one stop better..;) It does make a difference..:thumbs:
 
Thanks guys, there seem to be 2 options, standard screw thread 52mm filters and an apapter or gelatin filters. Any advantages either way? if im having to swap I want the easiest to handle really.
 
Gelatin filters will be the cheapest - but also the most fiddly. Warehouse Express do a set of gels for about 30 notes, but you'll either need to make your own drop in housings (possible?) or physically remove the lens & attach the filters behind the rear element. A pain in the arse, to be sure.

I'm guessing the front element on the 300mm F/2.8 is mondo big - but on the off chance that it isn't, the quickest option would be to get a Cokin // Lee holder system & then swop out the filters. Although you're increasing the chance of flare substantially.
And perhaps drop in filters would be quicker...
 
Not sure I understand about the Gelatin filters, I thought the Filter holder at the back of the lens held them.

Ive got a Canon GFH52 "Gelatin Filter Holder" built into the lens, but could buy a Canon F52HOLDER "52mm Screw Filter Holder"

With my current GFH52 id need to buy 52mm Gelatin filters, you say Warehouse Express do a set, any chance of a link, I cannot find them.

If I bought the "F52HOLDER" I could simply buy standard 52mm Screwthread filters.

Ive not found any gelatin filters so I dont know how easy they are to handle, the screw thread filters seem an easier option.
 
gah, sorry - my potty brain on the rampage :(

I'm talking about rear floppy gelatin filters, you're talking about front rigid ones - I'm guessing that this lens doesn't have a rear holder built in, then? (Small frame edges around the rear element).

Drop in filters or a Cokin // Lee system would still be much quicker than using screw filters, though. It's quick & easy to slide in or out a filter, but quite slow to screw one.

I may be making this up, but in my head the 300mm F/2.8 is a big beasty. Are you sure there's an attachment to mount 52mm filters? That's pretty darn small!
 
This lens takes 52mm drop-in filters Hoodi.
 
duh.

OK, I've done nothing but confuse matters here - Dreeder, I'm really sorry, but just ignore everything I've said in this thread. I'm talking out of my arse.
 
LOL. I had to look it up Hoodi if it's any consolation. ;)
 
Sorry guys, my fault for describing it badly, I will take it into my local camera shop, Wilkinsons Burnley, the guy in there is always very helpful and informative, I almost feel sorry for him at times, as I get all the info and then buy the items at half the price on the internet. I believe he runs a local camera club that id love to join, but as I work a permanent afternoon shift I cannot. :(

May be best to remove this thread al together, it confuses me reading it and I own the lens, so its probably no real use to anyone else either.
 
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