Lens advice/help

Lunahare

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Kelly
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Hi

I've just joined this forum!

I'm a complete photography beginner:(

My hubby brought me a nikon D3200 for christmas, it's a lovely camera but having had a little experiment with it, the standard lens it comes with is clearly not for long distance wildlife photography e.g. Hares!
What lens do you advise I get?? I have a low budget. :arghh:
Iam a beginner so I don't understand a lot of stuff, I just need someone to tell me exactly what to get!! Lol :wave:
 
Hi Kelly. Welcome to the forum!

As for lenses, how close can you get to them and how much is your budget? I'd recommend the Tamron SP 70-300 vc. It's a great lens with good image quality and the vibration control is excellent.
 
Hi, Kelly and welcome to TP and the money pit ( ;) :( ) that can be part of the hobby!

For your needs, I would suggest a 70-300mm lens which would give you much more "reach" than the lens that came with your camera (which is probably an 18-55mm). For your camera to autofocus (AF) you will need a lens that has the AF motor in the lens, so in Nikon's terminology you'll need an AF-S, in Sigma's terms, HSM. Second hand lenses will be significantly cheaper than brand new. I would suggest a visit to a local camera shop if you have one, ideally one that sells second hand kit. Make sure you tell any seller that the lens is for a D3200 and needs the AF motor in the lens (sorry to repeat this but it is quite important, especially for a beginner!) If you can stretch the budget, the vibration resistant (VR) Nikon lens or optically stabilised (OS) Sigma could be worth the extra since they allow you to use slower shutter speeds while hand holding the camera (not using a tripod or other support), although they won't stop the hares from dashing around!
 
Hi Kelly. Welcome to the forum!

As for lenses, how close can you get to them and how much is your budget? I'd recommend the Tamron SP 70-300 vc. It's a great lens with good image quality and the vibration control is excellent.
I would agree with minnnt, I have the Tamron 70-300 vc and I think it is a super lens, good value for the money.
 
Thanks so much for your replies!

See I wouldn't have know about the AF thing! Does the tamron 70-300 have this? I don't have to buy a nikon lens then??

Some of the tamron lens have SP. What does that mean? Seems to make a difference in price !
 
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The Tamron has a built in focus motor, and the VC is amazing, keep an eye on the classifieds on here should be able to pick one up for about £160 or so.
 
Oh I've found a new one online for under £100 is that not right then :(
 
Kelly won't have access to the classifieds unfortunately.

The VC REALLY is amazeballs. It holds the image dead still. The one you have seen will be the budget normal one with no VC. Optically ok and will do the job, but there is better available for not much more.

I'd post a few examples but I'm on my phone atm and it's too much of a ball ache. :D

The Tamrons SP monika means Special Performance I think and VC means Vibration Control which is similar (but better ;) ) to Nikons VR (Vibration Reduction) and Sigma's OS (Optical Stabilisation).
 
Ok it's starting to make sense but now! :banana:

And this will be good for long distance shots right:runaway:
 
How long? :D The next step up would be a Sigma 120-400 or 150-500 but they're £350-500 so it depends if you want to splash the cash for that extra length. The D3200 has a fair amount of pixels which will allow for some cropping in in post processing.
 
How long? :D The next step up would be a Sigma 120-400 or 150-500 but they're £350-500 so it depends if you want to splash the cash for that extra length. The D3200 has a fair amount of pixels which will allow for some cropping in in post processing.


Ooooo no that's a bit past my budget :oops: :$ I think ill stick to your first suggestion :wave: Thanks
 
One more question! Do I really need the vibration control/reduction thing??.
 
One more question! Do I really need the vibration control/reduction thing??.
It depends on the light you are shooting in. As a rule of thumb your shutter speed needs to be equal to or greater than lens focal length. Eg. 200 mm = 1/200th sec. This will depend on Apeture setting and ISO. Vbrstion control helps overcome camera shake to make 1/50th sec in this example. Or you can buy a tripod!
 
I do have a tripod, he got me that too, but generally need to low with hares.

Erm........I'm not suet what all the other stuff means :thinking:
 
Ok it's starting to make sense but now! :banana:

And this will be good for long distance shots right:runaway:

The Tamron 70-300 VC is a good lens, and very good value; the similar sounding Tamron 70-300 without VC is quite different and nowhere near as good.

But don't expect miracles. A 300mm lens is not that long for wildlife, but the price ramps up substantially after that and really big lenses are not easy to use for a newcomer. In addition to the equipment side and good photographic technique, you will also need good field craft to get close and the patience of a saint ;)

Good luck :thumbs:
 
It's not necessary no, but you really don't know what you're missing. There is of course the Nikon 55-300 vr which is a lesser lens by all accounts but still very useable.
 
It's not necessary no, but you really don't know what you're missing. There is of course the Nikon 55-300 vr which is a lesser lens by all accounts but still very useable.


Really? So it's worth the extra money then ;)

Why is the nikon a lesser lens?
 
The 55-300 vr isn't as good optically as the Nikon 70-300 vr, it's the class below if you like. The focussing isn't as fast and the build quality isn't the same.

This is how good the Tamron VC is...

Tamron SP 70-300mm Di f/4-5.6 VC USD - Vibration …:
 
Thanks David, looks like I have a lot to learn and a little saving to do :facepalm:
 
Third party lens manufacturers; Tamron/Sigma/Tokina etc make their money out of selling volume generally middle of the range lenses. They make lenses that fit the main brands (always check this if buying second hand:- is it Nikon or Canon or Sony fit? Match to your camera or you will end up using adapters or swapping the mount which is totally unnecessary expense.

In order to compete with original equipment manufacturers (OEM) such as Nikon, their price not only has to be keen, but also the product has to closely compete with or attempt to exceed the spec for the OEM's. They can do this because of the volume, whereas the OEMs provide a much wider range especially for the Pro's but these lenses are where the price ramps up significantly. (look in the classifieds of any camera mag and those lenses over £1000 from OEM are generally aimed at the Pro market and those with deep pockets, but will normally be better than those provided by the 3rd party manufacturers at that level. (There are odd exceptions but these are few).

OEMs will often bundle very average lenses with enthusiast cameras to allow people to start shooting straight away, but in time most will, if they care about quality, upgrade to better lenses, as it is the lenses that ultimately are far more critical to getting a really good shot (well that lump of bone and jelly behind the camera is the most crucial element in fact, but that is not what we are talking about in this thread). The lens is almost the give away sweetener to buy the camera, which then leads to hopefully some loyalty to that manufacturer. (In my case 25 years Nikon!)
 
Old Words of Wisdom for you to ponder i the midst of your ethusiasm; The more you Magnify the Subject, the more you'll magnify your errors....Long lenses are a double edge-sword.
Standing back and trying to use a magnifying glass to 'see close', you are limiting the angles you can view from, and expecting the camera to show you what you want to see, not learning the 'craft' to get a close up by getting 'close up', and learnig to MAKE the camera show you what you want to see... as others have said, work on your technique, that is where better photo' come from, ot the cameras.
Back to long lenses a sec, and the matter of 'Magnification', subject and error... The lens is a 'Lever' for light. Principle of the lever is that the 'lever ratio' will reduce the force needed to move something, but by an amount proportional to how much 'less' it will move. Like Jacking up a car.. you'd struggle to lift a car off its wheels, but if you use a jack, you can lift it 'easily', BUT you have to put in more 'effort'; the 'lever' multiplying the force you can apply, but reducing the amount the car lifts, so you have to do a lot of 'jacking' to get the car up off its wheel... apply to camera; the 'leverage' of a longer lens, may make it 'easier' to 'get close' to your subject, but overall, it'll likely take more 'effort', or certainly more 'patience' to 'do the job'.. and lever's work both ways....
Now, hand-holding your camera, it can move. Any movement in the camera, when the shutter is open, will result in the subject 'streaking' or blurring in the frame... more magnification you have making that subject bigger in the frame, more 'blurr' you are likely to get, and the more 'obvious' it will be in your picture... worse, your longer lens.. well, its longer! Its hanging further off the front of the bit of the camera you are holding, so it has ore actual mechanical leverage working against your grip, AND it'll probably be heavier, adding to it; this tends to make 'support' using a tripod or mono-pod even more important, and that can make it more awkward to set up a shot, and more cumbersome to change; 'slowing you down' demanding that 'patience', AND the 'Field-Craft' to plan your pictures, predict where subjects are going to be and work around the limitations of NOT being able to just 'grab' shots from the hip, as they occur to you....
THIS is the start of 'Proper' photography, as opposed to taking 'Snap-Shots.. planning, pictures, setting up to take pictures, applying the patience to MAKE the situations, and make them appear AS you want to capture them.... not expecting merely to have a wonder camera that will do it all for you... Viration Reduction lenses are great, Auto-Focus is fantastic, BUT, skill is still BEHIND the camera, not IN it!

"Yeah Yeah Yeah! I know all this BUT I WANT a longer lens! Just TELL me what to buy!"

Oh-Kay..... The Nikon 55-200 is a very useful 'starter' lens. A DX sensor camera like the D3200 (which is what I have), it gives 1.5x the magnification we used to get on 'full-frame' film cameras, where 210 was pretty much as 'long' as most folk would go, without getting into the rather compromised world of 'Mirror' lenses or VERY expensive 'long' primes; YUP it's NOT as 'long' as other suggested lenses.... this is NOT bad thing.. remember, more you magnify the subject, more you magnify any error! It's 'enough' to start getting you close-ER to your lanky-rabbits.. and its CHEAP. It's been pushed down the price list by the VRII series lenses and the 55-300, and with the 55-300 now available for around £150 new, the 'old' 55-200 is often offered for around £100, and you should be able to get one second hand for not a lot more than half that, maybe £60 or so, from some-one who has upgraded to a 70-300 or more.. WHICH is what I would fully expect YOU to do at some point, if you pursue this... but, if you DO, then, even a 70-300, for all the technical superiority any-one may mention, is likely to still lack the 'reach' you crave.. while, still magnifying as much 'error' as subject. the 55-200, accepting the lesser magnification, gives you a chance to start developing the field craft, from the outset, NOT expecting the camera to do it all for you; with the small bonus, that you still have, at the short end, the 55mm wider angle of your kit lens..... means that while you are shooting from the hip, you can still 'rack out' to where you left off with that lens.
The Nikon 55-300, as said, the 'newer' long kit; with better VR system and a bit more magnification, is the more 'superior' lens, and new, still very affordable if you shop around; but, technically 'superior' isn't always 'better', or 'better for me'. As sad, starting out YOU and your level of skill, will be the most limiting factor, not the camera or the bit of glass on the front, and as said, if yo take this further, ad you do develop your field craft, the eve the more superior lenses being suggested, are at some point, likely to become a bit limiting, and you'll want something 'more'.. so not over reaching, not over SPENDING (as has been warned, probably the most significant danger to this game!) Two suggested, offer plenty to be getting on with, the 55-200, the more for your money.

Yup; the Sigma & Tameron lenses are technically superior in many, many ways, but for where you are at, here and now, I just dont think what might make them 'superior' is likely to be of that much importance; it's like riding a bike; you don't need a club-competition, enthusiasts mountain bike to learn to ride! You just need something that has wheels and pedals, to get you started!
 
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