Leicester Square at Night, and scanning discussion.

[Blapto]

EdinburghGary wanted some dark slide scans, and I haven't been doing nearly as much scanning as I should have.

Here's a series of shots I took using the RZ67, 110mm f/2.8 and Provia 100F a few months ago. I seem to remember most of the exposures being 30 seconds+. They're probably shot around f/16 or f/22.

They're all straight out of the V700, partially for Gary's benefit. They've had mild sharpening, but nothing else.

Edit to add:
I'm making this an individual thread because I want to discuss scanning dark slides here, not because I want to draw particular attention to the photographs themselves. I may be following this up with some slides from a studio session shot on a black background.

Click to make biggerer!
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4.

5.

 

[EdinburghGary]

Blapto,

Thanks so much for taking the time. Can I ask what difficulties you encoutered with the scan (if any), and generally what steps you took. What software did you use, the Epson stuff? Or was it the other bundled PRO software? Did you use the Anti Dust and Scratch System (ice?). What about the "multi scan", almost HDR type technique to get the full dynamic range?

Gary.

 

[Blapto]

For these, it was Epson Scan, 4800 dpi, 48 bit colour, no multi scan/HDR/ICE magic, big green button GO!

On closer inspection of the negative, 5 is a poor scan, I'll re-do it tomorrow.

 

[EdinburghGary]

For these, it was Epson Scan, 4800 dpi, 48 bit colour, no multi scan/HDR/ICE magic, big green button GO!

Well you have instilled a lot of confidence in me! I was worried about shadow retention of details, and these photos are perfect test subjects.

And BTW - you can so tell it's film

Gary.

 

[natjag]

Interesting thread this. What size files do you get.
I'd also be interested to see how studio stuff scans, depending on the film etc.

 

[EdinburghGary]

Another question Blapto, how did you deal with Dust?

Gary.

 

[raathistle]

Another question Blapto, how did you deal with Dust?

Gary.

Copious use of spot heal and cloning.

I've tried the scanner based removal and you get wierd artifacts, plus its completely unusable in B&W (unless C41 process)

Your best bet is a very (!) clean scanner platen and a very clean film

 

[Blapto]

Rocket blower! That and closing doors and windows in the room about 20 minutes before I start scanning.

I'll check file sizes tonight, but from memory it's about a 380MB TIFF for 6x7, or a 70MB TIFF for 35mm.

Don't clone, in Photoshop CS3 use the Patch tool. Much more control. That said, I only really have dust problems on 35mm negative film. The specks get lost on medium format film like this, and you can only see them on highlights anyway. On negative film they show up on the shadows, which in my photography there tends to be more of.

 

[Knikki]

Dust is a pain in the arse for 35mm stuff. I was storing all mine in those clear see through plastic type sleevs. Going to get some paper ones instead cut down on the static.

Nice images Blapto

Must go scan some more stuff myself

 

[joxby]

Another question Blapto, how did you deal with Dust?

Gary.

Dust is a pain, dust on lenses is a minor detail compared what settles on the film and all the equipment it comes in to contact with, its a fact of life it'll always be there, just take as many precautions as you can to prevent it being present for a scan, although you might be a bit limited with what you can do if somebody else is processing.
I don't rate dust removal software, it seems to soften the image and fuzz up detail mostly, I dot dust out clone tool but its a ball ache.

Tap your lass up for a nice new fine blusher brush, keep the scanner covered until you want to use it and give everything a dust off, dust the film/neg carrier right before it goes into the scanner, if you leave it out 2 minutes, all sorts of rubble just....arrives..:shake:

After a scan, don't be tempted to leave small bits you can only just see, if you add USM which you probably will have to, it just amplifies them.