Beginner Layering exposures...

[LumixNoob]

So far with my landscape shots I've been shooting in raw and underexposing the foreground so as not to blow the highlights in the sky. Obviously this has its drawbacks, so I want to have a crack at layering a few exposures but could do with some pointers. I don't really like the overdone HDR style and am aiming for a 'what the eye sees' natural look, with everything exposed and clear. Can someone help me with these questions please?:

A) How many do you need? The easy answer seems to be two - one for the sky and one for the foreground/shadows for example. I have a feeling it's not that simple though?

B) How far apart stop-wise do the shots need to be?

C) Is it easier with jpegs/do you layer raws? It seems like fixing lots of raw files would be very time consuming (and resource hungry if you layer them). I've been very happy with the SOOC jpgs so don't mind using them, especially when I know I don't have to salvage a lot of detail from shadows or highlights.

D) Can you do it in any software that supports layers, or do you need one of the Photomerge/HDR plugins?

I should note I'll be using my X30 which I haven't managed to attach filters to and will be going away before I have chance to play about trying, that's why I'm not going down that route atm.

 

[john.margetts]

I would use a HDR technique. Although you say you do not like the overdone HDR style, that is not essential. The final look is down to how you handle the tone mapping and can look entirely natural.

 

[john.margetts]

If you want to avoid blowing the sky, instead of underexposing use a graduated neutral density filter. You will then end up with everything looking good.

 

[Craig_85]

A) How many do you need? The easy answer seems to be two - one for the sky and one for the foreground/shadows for example. I have a feeling it's not that simple though?

B) How far apart stop-wise do the shots need to be?

C) Is it easier with jpegs/do you layer raws? It seems like fixing lots of raw files would be very time consuming (and resource hungry if you layer them). I've been very happy with the SOOC jpgs so don't mind using them, especially when I know I don't have to salvage a lot of detail from shadows or highlights.

D) Can you do it in any software that supports layers, or do you need one of the Photomerge/HDR plugins?

A. I have done it with 2 and also with multiple ones when the highlights have been extreme and needed a greater degree of feathering than what one mask could achieve.

B. This varies on the scene and the type of blend you are trying to achieve. I think it is worth shooting 1 stop apart brackets, the number you need will be determined on the dynamic range of the scene, (but you may not use them all).

C. Well your computer may be quicker with JPEGS and I get your point that as you are not pushing or pulling exposures the lack of latitude is not crucial, but I would recommend you do shoot RAW. It will give you more malleable files to begin with and the advantage is you can push the shadows on your highlight exposure, and pull your highlights on the shadow exposure, then if you make a mistake with your masking it is less obvious. The files you are layering in PS should be 16bit TIFFS.

D. If you are talking about luminosity masking then I have only ever done it in PS. The fact you are mentioning HDR software means you may be looking for a quicker fix.

John has touched on it above, HDR software can be used to merge, but then don't tone map if you don't want the garish look. If you have LR then the 32bit HDR (which is designed to work from just 2 files) is easy to use and gives pretty good results apart from some epic fails it has with movement.

 

[LumixNoob]

Thanks for the replies. I'm using Elements 13 which has the Photomerge plugin so I'll be using that I think. I also have Aftershot Pro 2 which I don't really use but believe that has some kind of HDR plugin too. I'll shoot raw and jpeg and have a play with both, see how I get on.