Landscape photography

happygolucky

happygolucky

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Andrew
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Hi TP.
I'd really like to get into landscapes more and have decided on a Sigma 10-20mm for the job. Question is, I know I'll need N grads and by the looks of it Lee are the best :shrug: but what size filter and holder would I need for the job?
Many thanks..
 
With Lee, you would need their 100mm filter system, and a lens adapter that suits the filter thread on your lenses. For the 10-20mm I would recommend a wide angle filter holder too, to avoid any vignetting.
 
I would agree with Richard on the 100mm and wide angle filter holder on the sigma 10-20, I had the cokin p sized and found you had to be above about 15mm focal length before the holder was out of the image
 
cokin 50 hitech 150 lee 250 and wait for stock

ive the cokin ones but they seem ok to me

depends on how deep your pockets are

always plenty of buyers for any of the kit if you dont get on with them at 75% of cost back - maybe more 85% on the lees
 
If lee is too expensive, I recommend hitech over cokin.

Having tried all three systems lee is the clear leader, hitech is close but I found cokin colour casts frustrating
 
The filter route is worth trying, thought your other alternative if you don't want to go the filter route is to give HDR a try, though this would need a similar investment in software to get the best quality programs around.
 
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RichardtheSane said:
With Lee, you would need their 100mm filter system, and a lens adapter that suits the filter thread on your lenses. For the 10-20mm I would recommend a wide angle filter holder too, to avoid any vignetting.
Click to expand...


:agree:


I decided that I only wanted to buy once and have had no regrets.



Heather
 
Go with Lee would be my recommendation, I wasted money trying first Cokin then Hitech. You'll need the foundation kit and then a suitable adaptor to fit the threads of the sigma.

Simon
 
Collected the Siggy today, just need to sauce a big stopper. I think Teamwork have a couple left, so I best put an order in... Thanks for your help guys :thumbs:


Sigma 10-20MM by hpygolucky, on Flickr
 
I love my 10-20 - am just doing the same thing as you. Wide angle adapter bought and foundation kit bought.

Now it's just the filters to upgrade..
 
Just ordered my big stopper and fittings from Teamwork, total cost was £205.74p..
Long exposures here I come..
 
I am trying my best to pace myself with purchases...pay day tomorrow so maybe a grad ( £70 ) coming on....although I want to get a 10 stopper too (£100ish ? )( then I can sell my hitech one and recoup some pennies )...then I need adapter rings for the other lenses ( £40 )

Damn this expensive hobby:bonk:
 
Personally my expereince is that a wideangle adaptor isnt really needed with the 100mm system unless you add in more than 2 slots or a polarizer ring.

I'v used my 2 slot Lee holder with a Canon 10-22mm and to my supprize a Nikon 16-35mm on FF with a standard 77mm adaptor ring without any trouble.

Personally I'd recommend Lee's grads over Hitech's, I'v tried both and the latter had a clear red colour cast, albeit with a 4 stop rather than 2 stop grad.
 
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I wouldn't bother with Grads. Go for a while without. If you're shooting RAW then grads in software offer far more control and flexibility and might well eliminate the need.
Do some tests without before spending a lot of money.

One filter i really wouldn't be without though is a circular polariser.
 
gnirtS said:
If you're shooting RAW then grads in software offer far more control and flexibility and might well eliminate the need.
.
Click to expand...

Unless you've blown your skies in which case a grad would have done a better job, or unless your subject is moving when a grad would have done a better job, or unless you're going to have to massively lift your shadows in PP and bring a load of noise in when a grad would have done a better job.
 
Which is 90%+ of cases isn't an issue. Just don't blow the sky. Very very little has such a huge dynamic range you need a grad. For most cases now you have far more control in post than you do with a static filter stuck over a lens.
A fixed grad which is non adjustable stuck over a lens is in a lot of cases more limiting.

No harm in trying without and it might just save a few hundred quid.
 
I plan to use it for landscapes/seascapes, long exposures. And for what I'm aware after looking at peoples results on the web and the positive feedback I thought "That's the type of result I'm after" so went for it. Time will tell whether I can put it to good use, but either way I'll enjoy the experience anyhow.
 
gnirtS said:
Which is 90%+ of cases isn't an issue. Just don't blow the sky. Very very little has such a huge dynamic range you need a grad. For most cases now you have far more control in post than you do with a static filter stuck over a lens.
A fixed grad which is non adjustable stuck over a lens is in a lot of cases more limiting.

No harm in trying without and it might just save a few hundred quid.
Click to expand...

I just spent the last few days in Scotland, the highlands with dark rocky foregrounds and bright overcast skies had much more dymanic range than could be captured in one frame.

Learn how to use them properly and they're dead easy, and quick, and far from limiting.
 
gnirtS said:
Which is 90%+ of cases isn't an issue. Just don't blow the sky. Very very little has such a huge dynamic range you need a grad. For most cases now you have far more control in post than you do with a static filter stuck over a lens.
A fixed grad which is non adjustable stuck over a lens is in a lot of cases more limiting.

No harm in trying without and it might just save a few hundred quid.
Click to expand...

If you are using a fixed non adjustable grad then I'm afraid you're doing it wrong.

Every grad I have ever used in a filter system has been remarkably adjustable... you can slide it up and down in the holder, and even rotate the holder too :)
 
RichardtheSane said:
If you are using a fixed non adjustable grad then I'm afraid you're doing it wrong.

Every grad I have ever used in a filter system has been remarkably adjustable... you can slide it up and down in the holder, and even rotate the holder too :)
Click to expand...

I have a feeling that he may be talking about screw on grad filters not a square type (read lee hitech) system.

I brought lee when I got my filters this time round, having had cokin many years back with film and being disappointed with the results.
 
Jim_Tod said:
I would agree with Richard on the 100mm and wide angle filter holder on the sigma 10-20, I had the cokin p sized and found you had to be above about 15mm focal length before the holder was out of the image
Click to expand...

you can also use a hacksaw blade to cut the outer two slots off a standard holder to avoid vignetting
 
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