Inversion Method

Barney

Barney

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Wayne
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What inversion method are you using?

I started out with, I think, Illford method, which is one minute and then 10 seconds every minute. Last few times I have tried initial 30 seconds and the two gentle inversions every minute and the results are more to my tastes.

how many different methods are there and whats the point?
 
Barney said:
What inversion method are you using?

I started out with, I think, Illford method, which is one minute and then 10 seconds every minute. Last few times I have tried initial 30 seconds and the two gentle inversions every minute and the results are more to my tastes.

how many different methods are there and whats the point?
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The point is to replace exhausted developer evenly across the film during the processing while still giving sufficient contact time for the developer to react with the exposed silver halides. Not enough, or too much, can create uneven development patterns.

It's about ensuring 'even" development, and unless you are having issues, any recommended method is likely to work fine. But it also affects the development time required, so whatever approach you take, you need to be consistent from film to film.
 
If I had the time, I preferred to use stand development...

mrleica.com

Rodinal Stand Development (How To!) / Rodinal Developer - Leica Blog (Matt Osborne)

Rodinal Stand Development - This was my preferred method of B&W film developing when I first started film photography and developing film at home.
mrleica.com mrleica.com

There are many different techniques for developing film and you can always experiment until you find what pleases you best.
 
In most peoples' books I over agitate, an initial two or three inversions at the beginning then two inversions every 30 seconds, I have been doing it that way since I was at school, it is just what I do. As Andrew says you will find one that works for you and it will be part of your process, just like if your thermometer is not accurate * if you always use the same thermometer it will become part of your repeatable process.

* Assuming we are talking B&W negatives not C41 or E6 colour where time, temperature and agitation are very important.
 
Developer makes a difference. I use Rodinal, an acutance developer which depends on edge effects which are minimised by agitation. So for me, 10 seconds at the start, then two inversions at 3 minutes in and every 3rd minute subsequently.
 
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