Infra Red Filters

RAH12

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Rob
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Hi Guys,

Have just purchased some Infra red filters and I am totally brand new to this side of photography.

The filter is a cheaper alternative to Hoya, that i got off EBAY.

I am shooting with a canon EOS 40D, And the Canon 18-55EFS Kit Lens, and the filter itself is a
IR950nm.

Can anybody point me in the right direction with camera settings to achieve the right results?

Many Thanks,
Rob.
 
Even if you go the whole hog and get a body converted (as a friend of mine did with his 20D), you may find that some coatings on certain lenses make them less than suitable choices (especially shiny new ones).

If you convert a body to infra red, it'll meter just like a regular body, and you'll be able to take shots at regular shutter speeds, and your camera will meter just fine.

BUT, some lenses, like the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 are extremely bad at Infrared because their coatings specifically block infrared light.

You may find you get better results from older lenses that aren't multicoated to block infra-red, as my friend does.

A lot of the older point n' shoots are pretty good too. Basically, if you want to know if your camera's sensor can see infrared, turn on the liveview, point your TV remote at it and press a few buttons. If the LED on the end of the remote lights up, you're good to go.
 
Hi Guys,

Have just purchased some Infra red filters and I am totally brand new to this side of photography.

The filter is a cheaper alternative to Hoya, that i got off EBAY.

I am shooting with a canon EOS 40D, And the Canon 18-55EFS Kit Lens, and the filter itself is a
IR950nm.

Can anybody point me in the right direction with camera settings to achieve the right results?

Many Thanks,
Rob.


With IR you really just need to suck-it-and-see- you'll be looking at exposure times (with an unmodded camera) of around 15-30 seconds, so a tripod is a must.

You also can't focus with an IR filter in place, so you need to set your shot up and then attach the filter. Oh and when shooting in IR you need to focus at a different point from what you would normally, I can't remember the ins and outs of it atm, but with a bit of trial and error you should be able to work out how far in front/beyond your subject you need to focus to get it sharp.
 
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