Improving photos

JL1983

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Edit My Images
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Hi all

I'm quite new to the photography game, and just wondered what's the best way to improve my photos and move away from Auto/A mode. Do most people shot completely in M mode? Below are a few shots from a recent zoo visit, when you're there it's easy to take pics but what do most people take photos of day to day, to improve their photography?

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=341266

Thanks in advance
 
You have some quite nice shots there - all nicely exposed - why do you think shooting manual will improve them? That's a nonsense - what you need to do is learn what the camera controls do - before/if ever you shoot manual. Just keep going the way you are and take loads of pics.
 
I've found that one of the best ways to improve is to have a look at what other photographers are doing - try and identify what makes an image particularly great and then aim to create images of the same standard.

In terms of moving away from auto mode - perhaps try first either aperture priority or shutter priority - this will give you some flexibility and control, and you may find that after a while you will want total control, and hence you will switch over to fully manual :) Most people I know either use Ap/S settings in most situations, and only switch to fully manual when they are taking their time and really considering a photo.

Best of Luck :) Nikki
 
As a 'halfway house', if your camers has 'P' mode you could use that.

P is a form of Auto, but you can vary either aperture or shutter speed with the other parameter changeing automatically to maintain the exposure.
Using this mode you can see the effects of shutter speed on moving subjects and of aperture on depth of field while still getting a (reasonably) correctly exposed shot.
 
improve my photos and move away from Auto/A mode

A post of mine from...........
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=340075

Don't knock 'Fully Auto'

Some of my best shots are taken with my 'fully auto' Canon IXUS 100IS.
My truely 'pocket' camera.

Why?....I've been thinking about that.
I think it's because my mind is free just to take pictures and is not cluttered up with all that 'mode' stuff.
All I then have to worry about is composition, which is as it should be.

And of course my IXUS is far less obtrusive than one of my great big DSLR's slung around my neck, people take me for a photographer .
Whereas with my IXUS... Who cares, I'm just a tourist.

With my DSLR's I find that selecting the 'mode/s' suitable for the subject takes up more time than composition, whereas it ought to be the other way around.

I do enjoy my DSLR's, but it seems all more 'serious' somehow, superior shots ought to be the result but that is now always so.

So.....the moral is.
Feel free, cast off all technical thoughts, concentrate on composition and let the camera take the strain, most times it knows far better than we do anyway.

Just my 2p's worth.

D in W
 
Shooting in fully manual means that you are in control, not the camera.

Shooting manual allows you to adjust depth of filed, choose whether or not there will be an element of blur in your shot, control exposure to allow you to decide to expose for say, a silhouette or a blue sky and how to deal with very dark or very bright areas of a shot. Knowing manual will help you to decide what pre-sets you may want to use to alter the appearance of a shot, whether you will need a tripod or flash. Using manual means you learn to use an exposure meter. You will learn the most important part of photography, which is the relationship between shutter, aperture and ISO.

In essence, use manual for photographs, auto for snap-shots.

When you know how to use manual, you can use auto to give you the shot you want. But not the other way around.
 
This thread has given me hope, I use both M and fully auto and have IMO some really nice photos in both. However, I do not post them for fear of being shot down for not shooting in manual, I shall be less worried now :)
 
Shooting in fully manual means that you are in control, not the camera.

Bingo. Once you start shooting manual, you'll find it offers you a whole new world of options because you're completely in control. While cameras are relatively clever these days, the photographer still makes the best decisions because ultimately your photos are your own expression.

Your zoo photos are nice but your composition could be improved. I recommend a book called The Photographer's Eye by Michael Freeman to get you thinking about composition a little more.
 
If Manual scares you, give Program a try. It's pretty much fully auto in many respects but gives you much more control if you do want to play with the settings.

Manual however, confusing as it may be at first, will make you think. And you will learn faster about the ways in which the camera operates. All that tech trickery that you're used to having it do for you. It's not all that difficult, as the camera will still tell you where it's at.

One of the things with using Manual, unless you have plenty of time to set up your shots, you could find it frustrating at first not really being able to react quick enough. Which I guess is why Aperture Priority is a favourite. Which is what I tend to use most myself.

When using Aperture Priority, you're always forced into thinking about the depth of field in the shot, and you can still keep an eye on shutter speeds. It seems to suit most peoples needs and purposes, and is generally quicker than setting up in manual.
 
Personally I set myself the challenge of shooting in manual from day of buying my camera. But i'd got the advantage of some, limited, prior knowledge of what the key settings (aperture shutter and ISO) did and how they all affect each other from using other people's cameras before getting my own so although I'd personally recommend trying to always shoot in Manual i'd also be more than happy to suggest to a total 100% newcomer to DSLR's to start off in auto/p or whatever mode they get on with. But also don't just stick it in P or A and then fire and forget. Using the auto modes you will get shots that don't come out how you'd like, and when that happens look at the image and ask what it is that's "wrong" with it and then (here's the key part) look at the exif info for that image and the answer will be in there somewhere.

Also, i'd never criticise anyone who uses A or P etc irrespective of whether they've owned their DSLR a month or a decade (well done if you've owned one a decade) because we all bought our cameras to take good pictures with, and a good picture is a good picture no matter what mode it's taken on.

My advice to improve by the way, start doing some reading. I'd recommend "Perfect Exposure" by Michael Freeman to anyone. For me the first chapter of that book, about the technical side of dslr's and how they and the metering systems work, was worth buying it for alone. Also "The photographer's Eye" and "The photographer's Mind" are worth reading too, again they're both by Michael Freeman, and they cover the design and composition and ways of thinking about photography.

Good luck :thumbs:
 
You don't half see some crap on here about shooting manual and how you should do so to give full control of your image. Baloney!

Very few photographers have the ability to look at a scene, judge the light, and decide what combination of aperture/ISO/shutter speed will give them the perfect exposure as well as the depth of field/amount of motion blur required in their image. Most will require some sort of meter reading to give them a starting point, and I would guess that most will use the meter built in to the camera rather than a seperate one. So already we are in the realm of relying on our camera to do some of the work for us.

At this point, having taken a meter reading and dialled in the required settings, how many will then chimp the histogram after taking a shot to check that they are within the parameters of what they are hoping to achieve? More reliance on their camera's abilities.

At this point I would say that shooting manually like this is no different to dialling in your ISO setting and an aperture (if shooting in AV mode), taking a shot, and then adjusting the exposure with EC after checking the histogram. Shooting in auto mode like this will give most the control they need over depth of field, whilst allowing the camera to make adjustments to the shutter speed if the light should change slightly. If the light should change drastically, or the tones of the subject should change to the point of affecting the meter reading, it's a fairly simple matter of re-checking the histogram and changing the EC to suit.

If someone shooting manually decides that they want to shoot at f/4 to give the depth of field they require, ISO of 100 to give the best quality with minimum noise, they are going to have a limited amount of leeway over what shutter speed they choose in order to avoid over or under exposing the shot. I maintain that there is no difference for someone shooting on auto selecting the same aperture and ISO, and allowing the camera to select the shutter speed, providing the appropriate metering mode is being used and/or EC is used to allow for tricky lighting conditions and/or subject.
 
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There is no Holy Grail setting that you use on the camera and all your shots will be magnificent.

The answer is to know how the different modes work and when to use them.

Personally I use aperture priority and manual.

Shooting normally on daylight I know what depth of field I want and use aperture priority. I then set the ISO to give me the shutter speed that I require.

If I'm using flash I'll normally use manual. I set the aperture I want for depth of field, set the shutter speed to meter the ambient or freeze action and let the E-TTL take care of the exposure with the flash. If I'm using radio triggers I'll have the flashes in manual as well.

If I want to use flash as fill flash then I'll use aperture priority and the camera will meter for ambient and add flash to light the subject.

There are also times when the camera metering just won't hack it and you need to use manual. I was shooting fireworks last night and you just can't get a decent exposure unless you set it up manually.
 
You don't half see some crap on here about shooting manual and how you should do so to give full control of your image. Baloney!

Agree 100%!!

Why buy a modern camera and then shoot manual - crazy. You can get 'control' in Aperture or shutter priority modes - if you take a meter reading with a hand held and set the camera to that - how is that 'manual'? I shot manual for years because there was no choice - now there is and it frees you to concentrate on the important thing - the image!! While you're all farting about with settings I'll have got the picture and gone home.

I've shot fireworks in aperture priority too! :)
 
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I shoot in Av when the scene is reasonably uniform and I can trust the inbuilt meter, but always have my fn button set to spot meter so I can quickly check things out myself.

I'll always shoot in manual when the scene is very contrasty simply because I'll only have two dials to adjust to lock in my exposure rather than fiddling with ec and exposure lock buttons.
 
You don't half see some crap on here about shooting manual and how you should do so to give full control of your image. Baloney!

If you are not in manual, the camera is clearly making some of the decisions for you, so you cannot by definition be in `full control` of your image.

Very few photographers have the ability to look at a scene, judge the light, and decide what combination of aperture/ISO/shutter speed will give them the perfect exposure as well as the depth of field/amount of motion blur required in their image.

I would say that all good photographers are capable of doing exactly this. This ability - and the time and practice they put into acquiring these skills- is what makes them good photographers.

Most will require some sort of meter reading to give them a starting point, and I would guess that most will use the meter built in to the camera rather than a seperate one. So already we are in the realm of relying on our camera to do some of the work for us.

ALL, not most, shots need a meter reading unless you are letting the camera decide, rather than you telling the camera what you want. The in-built meter is fine in most circumstances. I have not used a hand-held for years. Of course we rely on the camera to do some of the work. A camera is a tool. A chef uses an oven to create food, but does not let it decide how to cook the meal.

At this point, having taken a meter reading and dialled in the required settings, how many will then chimp the histogram after taking a shot to check that they are within the parameters of what they are hoping to achieve? More reliance on their camera's abilities.
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Don't get this bit at all. Of course you should check that the shot you have taken is OK. A glance at the telemetry is sensible. What is your point here?

At this point I would say that shooting manually like this is no different to dialling in your ISO setting and an aperture (if shooting in AV mode), taking a shot, and then adjusting the exposure with EC after checking the histogram. Shooting in auto mode like this will give most the control they need over depth of field, whilst allowing the camera to make adjustments to the shutter speed if the light should change slightly. If the light should change drastically, or the tones of the subject should change to the point of affecting the meter reading, it's a fairly simple matter of re-checking the histogram and changing the EC to suit.

Making adjustments to ISO, aperture, EC and other settings are what I would term `manual adjustments`. This is not automatic shooting.

If someone shooting manually decides that they want to shoot at f/4 to give the depth of field they require, ISO of 100 to give the best quality with minimum noise, they are going to have a limited amount of leeway over what shutter speed they choose in order to avoid over or under exposing the shot.

This is fundamental to all photography. Again, what is your point? If the lighting and other conditions don't allow the shot you want, you must alter some variable to obtain the shot. If there are not enough variables, you will not get the shot.

I maintain that there is no difference for someone shooting on auto selecting the same aperture and ISO, and allowing the camera to select the shutter speed, providing the appropriate metering mode is being used and/or EC is used to allow for tricky lighting conditions and/or subject.

If you are manually selecting aperture and ISO and so forth, you are not shooting in auto. However, by allowing the camera to make some of the decisions - such as shutter speed - you are in danger of not getting the shot you are hoping for. Why not use all the functions that came with your camera? I will use some automated functions in certain circumstances because it allows me to get better shots.

But my first choice, and I believe that of the overwhelming majority of pro photographers, is to use manual wherever possible.
 
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It doesn't matter how you control your camera as long as you know how to get the shot you want. Who cares how you got there?

The best thing to do is UNDERSTAND exposure, UNDERSTAND how the image sensory differs from the human eye and THEN learn how to control your camera.
 
Thanks for all the comments, by the sounds of it the answer is to just "get out there" and experiment.
 
as has likely been said before, manual control won't make better images- in fact now that cameras are so clever it's better to let the camera decide what to do and you as the photographer can focus on composition and what it is you're actually trying to show.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm
this guy gets a bad rap because he dispells the myth that spending £££ on gear will make you a better photographer, people like to think that the quality of their photos can be improved by pumping money into it. Buying an expensive suit won't make you look any better, but buying one that actually fits will.


Imagine if it took 20 hours to take a photograph- the problem with photography as an art form is that people can see an image right away through the viewfinder and they think that's good enough for them- the miracle of an image on a screen! As a painter when we sit down to start a piece that will take about 20 hours to complete, so we sketch first, we figure out what it is we're trying to say- we create the basis for an image we will enjoy staring at for the next 20 hours, if we can't figure anything out we leave it until another day. Photography isn't like that, people just walk around with their camera and click, they look at all the photos when they get home and they pick the one they like best- the thinking needs to be done before the image is taken.

Think about the classical rules of composition, look at the work of the great masters (of painting, not photography), and most of all- shoot and shoot while thinking about what you're shooting
 
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