I'm a total novice

clive barry

clive barry

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clive
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Hi Folks

I've got a Nikon D80 and a Sigma 105mm 2.8 macro

I could do with some instuctions how you manual focus when your at 1.1

Regards

:bonk::bonk:
 
I've never tried macro photography but a friend of mine does a lot of it and he says that he just very gently rocks backwards and forwards until he finds the right position to get the image totally in focus. That's assuming you are handheld of course. If you are on a tripod then I'd assume you'd manually focus the same as you would with any other kind of photography.
 
-Rob- said:
just very gently rocks backwards and forwards until he finds the right position to get the image totally in focus.
Click to expand...

That's pretty much what I do, hand held of course. You'll see through the viewfinder at f2.8, so it won't look like much is in focus until you take the shot. Remember at 1:1 the depth of focus is tiny, so greater f numbers are required = flash is often required. Practice make perfect (well, if not perfect, at least better!)
 
The camera is on a tripod I just need some help in how to manual focus at 1.1
 
GarynLea said:
Much more time consuming and therefore not really any good for live or moving items, is the use of a macro slide plate. Manfrotto do one, the MN454 ... http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/cache/offonce/pid/3226
Click to expand...

That looks a handy piece of kit.

Clive, when focussing in macro it is often easier to move the camera (or the subject, if inert) to achieve focus than using the focussing ring (on manual).
Hand held macro shots are difficult. I find that manual focussing is better than auto for close ups.
That focussing slide looks capable of very fine adjustment so should be usefull
 
What other F stops can you manual focus at 1'1

I'll also get a rail thanks for the link
 
clive barry said:
What other F stops can you manual focus at 1'1

I'll also get a rail thanks for the link
Click to expand...

You can manual focus any f stop. When you are looking through the viewfinder, the image will be at f2.8 or whatever the smallest number is, which allows the most amount of light through the lens. the aperture you choose will be set as the photo is taken.

The greater the aperture (higher f stop number) the less light it lets through = longer shutter periods (or higher ISO) or flash.

I'm no expert, so others may explain better
 
Think I’ve got it now I’m going to have a go tomorrow

Thank you all for your help
 
Hi & Welcome :wave:

I've found - in my limited experience of Macro - a remote switch is a great help and manually focusing on the point you want rather than the point the camera picks on.

Good luck and experiment away :thumbs:
 
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