Ilford SFX 200 with filter

TheVDM

TheVDM

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Hello, I am going to try some Ilford SFX 200 film to get some IR effect shots, do I need to set an exposure compensation when using this film with the SFX 200 filter to get a good exposure or does the extended red sensitivity compensate for this!

Jym
 
Ilford SFX 200 is not a true infra red film it is "Red Sensitve" I would read the info that came with the film and see if it says anything.

I have used Konica 750 in the past and all I did was use the exposure guide on the inside of the film box and bracket like mad. Did not dial in any exposure compensation.

Gave this kind of effect

30j2qvl.jpg
 
Hi, as much as I would like to use some real IR film I dont think I can deal with handling or developing it, so the Ilford SFX 200 is the second choice.

I will check the inside of the film container for instructions when it arrives, I am just a little confused as people on the web are saying to overexpose by 1, 2, 3 or 4 stops (depending on who wrote the article), yet in the Ilford data sheet that I downloaded it says nothing regarding over exposing...

I think the first film will be a test roll and I will write down the camera settings and see how it comes out.

By the way, lovely shot, it looks like what I have in my head for a final result!

All the best
Jym
 
TheVDM said:
Hi, as much as I would like to use some real IR film I dont think I can deal with handling or developing it, so the Ilford SFX 200 is the second choice.
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I think that is the Kodak H1E IR film which was at 1145nm so it really as a true infra red film needed to be handled in complete darkness and processed very carefully. I think Kodak has only recently stopped making it. Look for images by Simon Marsden, or some of the older U 2 albums that he created with the ghostly castle on the album cover.

TheVDM said:
I will check the inside of the film container for instructions when it arrives, I am just a little confused as people on the web are saying to overexpose by 1, 2, 3 or 4 stops (depending on who wrote the article), yet in the Ilford data sheet that I downloaded it says nothing regarding over exposing...
Click to expand...

The joys of the internet so much information :eek: best thing to do is bracket like mad and as you say make notes


TheVDM said:
By the way, lovely shot, it looks like what I have in my head for a final result!

All the best
Jym
Click to expand...

Thanks, taken a couple of years on a bright sunny day at Fountains Abbey. Oh! I also had a Hoya R72 red filter on the camera, but it is dark you have to stick the filter on thye front after you have composed then shoot :D

Have fun and post some shots when you get them developed.
 
TheVDM said:
I am just a little confused as people on the web are saying to overexpose by 1, 2, 3 or 4 stops (depending on who wrote the article), yet in the Ilford data sheet that I downloaded it says nothing regarding over exposing...
Click to expand...

Is this maybe due to compensating for the filter usage? On a camera without TTL metering? Just a thought?

I normally use SFX200 on my Nikon FM3A. It's a manual camera but has TTL metering and works well with SFX film. I use a B+W dark red filter and just expose according to the meter.

:)
 
Ben said:
Is this maybe due to compensating for the filter usage? On a camera without TTL metering? Just a thought?

:)
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That's sure to be it. A camera with TTL metering will automatically compensate for any filter fitted, so there should be no need for any exposure adjustment. If you use a non TTL camera, then you should increase the exposure by the amount of the filter factor/ coefficient - usually printed on the edge of the filter, which of course you'll have to do manually.

A filter factor of 1.5X means increase by half a stop, a factor of 2X means one whole stop, 4X means 2 whole stops and so on.
 
CT said:
That's sure to be it. A camera with TTL metering will automatically compensate for any filter fitted, so there should be no need for any exposure adjustment. If you use a non TTL camera, then you should increase the exposure by the amount of the filter factor/ coefficient - usually printed on the edge of the filter, which of course you'll have to do manually.

A filter factor of 1.5X means increase by half a stop, a factor of 2X means one whole stop, 4X means 2 whole stops and so on.
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You've got it in one!

A camera with TTL will automatically adjust for the filter.

I shot 2 rolls of SFX 200 which were way over exposed becuase I was adding 4 stops to the readings the camera was giving.

I then shot a roll of SFX 200 today (in the nice bright sun we are having), but without overexposing the film (just shooting at ISO-200 with the filter on) and they appear to have come out fine!

Hope this helps somebody else in the future.

Jym
 
I dunno, proper IR film usually takes some serious attenuation, I have some Rollei IR 400, if I ever get round to using it (you can shoot it as ordinary b/w @ 400) with an r72 its like iso 12 :gag:, definitely tripod country.

I don't even have a filter :(
 
joxby said:
I dunno, proper IR film usually takes some serious attenuation, I have some Rollei IR 400, if I ever get round to using it (you can shoot it as ordinary b/w @ 400) with an r72 its like iso 12 :gag:, definitely tripod country.

I don't even have a filter :(
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I would love to shoot some propper IR film, but as you say it needs some serious attention! Plus I use an EOS 300 which uses an IR sensor to count the holes which would cause fogging on the film.

Do you know what chemistry you need to develop the Rollei IR 400 in?

It would probably be worth getting a filter to have a play around and see what you can get.

Jym
 
Nope, just ordinary developers.
Rollei recommend their own RHS, but they would wouldn't they.
They do suggest D76 or Diafine as an alternative, to their credit.
To be honest, the developing doesn't bother me, its the metering for the shot at iso 12 (if that's actually correct with an R72 :shrug:) with a non ttl rangefinder and no meter, I can see a 2 shot roll and 10 duffers coming up :gag:

*watches 58mm R72*

:)
 
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