How to Gel a Godox QT600

Jurgen Payne

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Jurgen Payne
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Hey there everyone, I am looking for a great simple solution to being able to gel a Lencarta 600SF head (Godox QT600) I have looked all over the place to find a way I can gel this really awkward light in that it has a flash tube with a dome and a 150W modelling lamp that comes through the centre of that as well so if any genius out there has a solution to this issue that would be MASSIVELY appreciated for sure! many, many thanks in advance
 
Barn door gel holder attachment?

Failing that; a folded/rolled gel held on with gaff tape - not pretty, but functional.
 
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Barn door gel holder attachment?

Failing that; a folded/rolled gel held on with gaff tape - not pretty, but functional.
Yeah, I am not worried about prettiness but the gel needs to cover the bulb and dome and then potentially fit into a softbox S fit hole (if that makes sense) I need to find some more malleable Gels (thinner material) if you have any suggestions on a good set at all?
 
Have you tried the old trick of cutting out a cross in the get, which then folds to a cover that can be slipped over (but well clear of) the bulb.
 
Just fit the gel over the front of the softbox.
 
unscrew the modelling lamp.
This is the best solution. My SF600 heads are the earlier ones with the tiny halogen modelling bulbs so I can leave them in. If you have the more standard E27 screw-in bulbs, take them out and then just make gel hats for the glass dome (or just make the hats longer). Works with any modifier then.

Swipe right on this Insta post to see some examples:-
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bll8FTeHo8E/


They are just wrapped around the dome, and them folded at the end as if you were wrapping a present. Taped up with Sellotape. Once made, you can slide them on and off the dome pretty easily, and almost all modifiers fit over them without any issues. The only one where space is tight is the small projection attachment I have. The gels I use are the standard Rosco e-colour+ and they'll survive all but the severest of punishment. I use them with the modelling lamps too sometimes, and they do stick to the glass, but come away again once cooled off. I've been doing this for years with no ill effects on the light, however as you are blocking the ventilation holes in the dome, potentially, if you hammer the light at full power for an extended period of time, something could overheat. If you are concerned with heat melting the gels, you could use the thinner Rosco Supergel instead. It's a bit more expensive and doesn't cover the full colour range, but can take even higher temperatures. Tbh though, in my experience the flash tube won't cause cause any problems - it's only the sustained 150Watts from the modelling bulb that ever troubles them, and even then they just harden up a bit. Don't leave the modelling bulbs on unattended though.

Here's the template I use to size the gels for this purpose:-
View: https://www.instagram.com/p/CHJJmm-gkBI/


I also make them for the AD200 open bulb:-
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cbp-1pcgBGS/

Pure acetone is useful for cleaning the domes, which I do every 6 months or so.
 
@Scooter Many thanks for your response, I may well try and get some ROSCO gel(s) film as the heat is the main issue what with 150w Bulbs which I like to use just so that I know where the light is spilling etc I have come up with a possible solution and aim to use the modelling lamps on minimum power and as and when I need them for positioning and then turn them off!

I will hopefully be looking into getting new strobes later in the year as I have had these Lencarta SF600's for quite some time now and the newer equivalents seem to lean more to L.E.D modelling lamps which will help loads! I will try and post some images of what I have cobbled together later but thank you for your response its truly appreciated ✔️
 
@Scooter Many thanks for your response, I may well try and get some ROSCO gel(s) film as the heat is the main issue what with 150w Bulbs which I like to use just so that I know where the light is spilling etc I have come up with a possible solution and aim to use the modelling lamps on minimum power and as and when I need them for positioning and then turn them off!

I will hopefully be looking into getting new strobes later in the year as I have had these Lencarta SF600's for quite some time now and the newer equivalents seem to lean more to L.E.D modelling lamps which will help loads! I will try and post some images of what I have cobbled together later but thank you for your response its truly appreciated ✔️
Those SF600s are really good lights. The newer Godox QT* models don't have quite such short flash durations at the same power levels.
 
Those SF600s are really good lights. The newer Godox QT* models don't have quite such short flash durations at the same power levels.
This test from Photigy showed good flash durations for the QT-II in "speed mode", but coupled with a wild range of colour temperatures - off the chart at the blue end at the lowest output. Whilst this is ok if all the lights are at the same output, it generates a right mess if they're not. The Superfasts by comparison manage a comparatively slow 1/8000th of a second duration but very consistent colour. This test doesn't show durations in Colour Mode for the QT-II which has much more consistent colour (and larger durations).

(note they have confusingly put the headings *underneath* the images they refer to).
 
This test from Photigy showed good flash durations for the QT-II in "speed mode", but coupled with a wild range of colour temperatures - off the chart at the blue end at the lowest output. Whilst this is ok if all the lights are at the same output, it generates a right mess if they're not. The Superfasts by comparison manage a comparatively slow 1/8000th of a second duration but very consistent colour. This test doesn't show durations in Colour Mode for the QT-II which has much more consistent colour (and larger durations).

(note they have confusingly put the headings *underneath* the images they refer to).
I just compared the manufacturer's quoted t0.1 times at any given power.

And you're right about the QTs colour, you can end up with warm coloured shadows from fill lights which looks like tungsten creeping into the shot.
 
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