How to achieve the shadows on both side of face look.

zane80

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I saw this cover and am keen in creating this look of shadow on both side of the face. Is it done by makeup or lighting effects?

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The light is coming from in front - gridded / ring flash look ? The tip of the nose, cheeks sort of suggest its fired from in front but firing from the floor upwards rather than downwards. This is reinforced with the arm shadow higher than the arm on the wall behind.

Looks like a single largish source like eg a soft box
 
Looks like a single largish source like eg a soft box

Transitions are too abrupt for that....

Ringflash lying down, shooting up her nose. It's quite likely this was shot with her lying down and the photography standing somewhere near her ankles. Look closely at her earrings.

Neck has probs been 'shopped to make it ridiculously long but there's also some distortion going on.

@joxang - usually they forget to 'shop the shadows.....
 
Thanks, I will try your advice given to shoot from low.
 
I cannot see how her ears can be so bright if the sides of her face are really in natural shadow (I've heard of hair lights but not ear lights...). I think there has to be quite a bit of photoshopping of her face.
 
I cannot see how her ears can be so bright if the sides of her face are really in natural shadow (I've heard of hair lights but not ear lights...). I think there has to be quite a bit of photoshopping of her face.

Yes, it's been lit as Jonathan says (and she is obviously lying on the floor, look at her dress...)

And the shadows on her face are PP - even though it's always quicker and better to do it in camera. And while they were about it they turned her face to plastic too:'(
 
I'm gonna give a slightly different opinion but along the same lines.

I don't think she's laying down, I think she's standing up and assistants are probably holding the dress out, if she was laying down, the dress on camera left would be creased as it rests on her arm but it's not it's straight and flat. Also the shadow from her arm camera right isn't consistent with her being flat on the floor, her arm would be nearly touching the floor so the extreme angle required to get the shadow that high above her arm is unlikely and doesnt fit with the shadows in the rest of the image.

However, I would also suspect ringflash/gridded beauty dish. And contouring dodge and burn is definately there (adding to the difficulty in guessing the lighting obviously), especially on her face and sides of her head.

Be careful who you light like this, without a stunning model you'll make this shot look horrific. Monster lighting isn't flattering for most people (in this case it is, and it's an awesome shot)

OP - to your initial question, a ringflash (a proper one not a macro ringflash), beauty dish, octabox, even an umbrella can create this lighting. Try them on axis with the camera, slightly higher (before trying lower, as per your example), and feather them downwards slightly. Now grab some black reflectors and stick them either side of your model's face, it will excentuate the shadows either side. Do not use fill. Perfectly doable with one light :) have fun
 
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I don't think she's laying down, I think she's standing up and assistants are probably holding the dress out, if she was laying down, the dress on camera left would be creased as it rests on her arm but it's not it's straight and flat.

Yeah I thought that. But somebody is clearly holding the dress whether she's lying down or standing up. In the end I decided that hoop earrings don't lie like that when you stand up. Also you know how lazy fashion photographers are - would be an awkward angle if she's standing up....

Very suspicious of the arm shadows. The one on camera right just doesn't look right at all. (Where it says "hanging out with Frida"). Almost like she's lying on (model) right side. Or it's been, you know, 'shopped ;)
 
No idea what you're subtly implying, this is obviously straight out the camera, shot in jpeg with a "cool" in camera filter applied ;)
 
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