Help with sync cable for Hasselblad 503CW and Profoto B1 head

ndwgolf

ndwgolf

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Neil Williams
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Guys I'm in a bind
I want to use my B1 head with my newly acquired Hasselblad 503CW for a photo-shoot in a nice garden setting. The question I have is this. What cable do I need to go from my Profoto Air Remote to my Hasselblad lens and will the air remote work that way??
 
ndwgolf said:
Guys I'm in a bind
I want to use my B1 head with my newly acquired Hasselblad 503CW for a photo-shoot in a nice garden setting. The question I have is this. What cable do I need to go from my Profoto Air Remote to my Hasselblad lens and will the air remote work that way??
Click to expand...
Isn't it just a PC connection at the lens?
Does the air remote have a socket?
If so what type?
 
Phill
The Air remote doesn't have a socket but I was thinking a pc socket into the lens then the other end being a hot shoe the fire with the Air remote
 
I've seen a pc cable to hot shoe but I'm thinking the Hasselblad doesn't have a battery so that probably won't work
 
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mike weeks said:
If you know the jack is correct to the best of my knowledge the one on the other end is standard and never seen in different sizes.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike its only 25 quid I will order it and see what happens..........I can see this model shoot in MF Film is going to be fun and games :) :)
 
You appear to be sorted, but just FYI,
The flashgun (or remote) puts its constant live down the PC cable (or through the hotshoe), when the shutter fires it closes a switch to send the live signal back to create the flash. So even old manual gear just needs the x sync terminals.
No need to worry about there being no power in your camera
 
Phil V said:
You appear to be sorted, but just FYI,
The flashgun (or remote) puts its constant live down the PC cable (or through the hotshoe), when the shutter fires it closes a switch to send the live signal back to create the flash. So even old manual gear just needs the x sync terminals.
No need to worry about there being no power in your camera
Click to expand...
It's just a ground connection... the cable's not "live."
 
Phil V said:
You appear to be sorted, but just FYI,
The flashgun (or remote) puts its constant live down the PC cable (or through the hotshoe), when the shutter fires it closes a switch to send the live signal back to create the flash. So even old manual gear just needs the x sync terminals.
No need to worry about there being no power in your camera
Click to expand...
I've read somewhere where you have to remember to switch a switch on the Hasselblad to X but cant remember where........I guess when I get home I can find that little X
 
ndwgolf said:
I've read somewhere where you have to remember to switch a switch on the Hasselblad to X but cant remember where........I guess when I get home I can find that little X
Click to expand...
You need to set the ISO dial if using TTL... I don't think you need to set anything to use a PC only connection (it's just a mechanical contact).
 
I haven't used a Hasselblad for ages, probably not since the 503CM was current :eek:

Never liked them either, but as I recall there's a co-axial PC socket (same as many cameras still have today) and a 3-way switch labelled V, X, M. V is self-timer, X is electronic flash and M is for magnesium flash bulbs - firing signal goes out fractionally early to allow the bulb to reach full brightness.

Many studio flash heads still come with a PC-to-jack cable - set X and just plug it in. Or a PC-to-hotshoe adapter would probably work, so you could use the Profoto trigger http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-...odzgtajaavtm67pw4rg1pckymyvrmkxu9shocspzw_wcb

Edit: PC sync sockets are notoriously unreliable, especially when you've tripped over the cable a few times and yanked it out. So if it doesn't fire, give it a wiggle ;)
 
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HoppyUK said:
as I recall there's a co-axial PC socket (same as many cameras still have today) and a 3-way switch labelled V, X, M. V is self-timer, X is electronic flash and M is for magnesium flash bulbs - firing signal goes out fractionally early to allow the bulb to reach full brightness.
Click to expand...
Apparently there is a selector sw on older lenses.

225283-1_300x300.jpg
 
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