HELP PLEASE Voigtlander Superwide Heliar 15mm: rangefinder patch not moving at all....

[tikkathreebarrel]

Guys, I'd welcome some advice here please. I've just bought a V1 (M39 mount) example of this lens through EBay and here's the issue:

1. On any of my rangefinder bodies the focus patch doesn't move when I rotate the focus ring of the lens. The patch is "on" at about a metre or arms' length rom the subject irrespective of the focus distance shown on the lens.

2. I cannot get any kind of focus when I mount the lens through an adapter on a micro 4/3 body. I've also tried using adapters to mount it on my 5DII and again there's simply no sense of coming near to focus.

3. With the lens unmounted the body of the lens does move in/out when moving the focus ring but not by very much, maybe a millimetre?

4. One of the rf bodies I've mounted it to is a Bessa R so it should be a perfect match.

Before buying I had the seller confirm that it IS a rangefinder lens. I can't see that I'm doing anything wrong - can you think of anything?

I guess it needs to go back on Monday.

Thanks in advance for any advice and help you can offer.

Pete

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Guys, I'd welcome some advice here please. I've just bought a V1 (M39 mount) example of this lens through EBay

I'm fairly sure that the first version of the 15mm was not coupled to the rangefinder. I remember using mine on scale focussing.

I find that anything wider than 24mm is best focussed on the scale - especially with a dSLR - because the screens don't make it easy to tell the sharpest point of focus with shorter lenses.

For what they cost these days, I think it's an impressive lens...

 

[tikkathreebarrel]

I'm fairly sure that the first version of the 15mm was not coupled to the rangefinder. I remember using mine on scale focussing.

Firstly thank you for taking the trouble to reply: I'm very much a beginner at RF photography and have got used to the lens moving the rf cam in the camera body.

So what you're saying is that this lens by not touching the cam cannot be focussed using the rf patch? A quick google question brings up confirmation that the Version 1 lens (the M39 mount version) is uncoupled. Ken Rockwell says.... plus others.....

But wait.... if this lens was originally sold with the Voigtlander Bessa L which had no inbuilt viewfinder/rangefinder but used the cold shoe mount viewer which comes with the lens, that would make complete sense and if I'd bought this lens kitted with a Bessa L body I would have no alternative but to trust to scale focus, shoot a film and wait for the results? That is right isn't it?

I find that anything wider than 24mm is best focussed on the scale - especially with a dSLR - because the screens don't make it easy to tell the sharpest point of focus with shorter lenses.

I've tried it again on both the 5DII and my micro 4/3 Olympus and cannot get anything like focus on either body. For interest I also tried a known coupled RF lens and couldn't get focus with that either..... er.....

For what they cost these days, I think it's an impressive lens...

Which is what I was hoping for..... The seller is willing to take it back. It seems that my options are either to simply send it back or shoot a film and get it developed pdq.

Oh every day's a school day.....

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

I would have no alternative but to trust to scale focus, shoot a film and wait for the results? That is right isn't it?

Yes.

However, it isn't really a problem to scale focus a 15mm on a full frame body because the depth of field is enormous...



Set infinity against the right hand tick for the aperture in use and the left hand tick will show you the closest distance which will also be adequately sharp. At f4.5 (wide open) your depth of field will run from roughly 2.5 feet to infinity.

The only time you'll need to refocus is if you're working really close and wide open. At f16, you'll be hard pressed to find a reason to shift the focus!

 

[woof woof]

Yes.

However, it isn't really a problem to scale focus a 15mm on a full frame body because the depth of field is enormous...

View attachment 337206

Set infinity against the right hand tick for the aperture in use and the left hand tick will show you the closest distance which will also be adequately sharp. At f4.5 (wide open) your depth of field will run from roughly 2.5 feet to infinity.

The only time you'll need to refocus is if you're working really close and wide open. At f16, you'll be hard pressed to find a reason to shift the focus!

On a film RF f16 could lead to ISO / shutter speed issues depending upon the available light.

If using this lens on a modern mirrorless camera (like Micro Four Thirds) it should be possible to focus accurately by calling up the magnified view. With a live view equipped DSLR you can use the back screen and of course no matter what the lens is mounted on hyperfocal / zone is possible but may not stand up to pixel peeping viewing at high magnification, depending upon what you're shooting and pixel peeping.

 

[tikkathreebarrel]

Update, I've put my faith in the lens, rattled off a roll at f4.5 and it'll go in the post for developing. 24 hour turnaround on the scans.

On a film RF f16 could lead to ISO / shutter speed issues depending upon the available light.

If using this lens on a modern mirrorless camera (like Micro Four Thirds) it should be possible to focus accurately by calling up the magnified view. With a live view equipped DSLR you can use the back screen and of course no matter what the lens is mounted on hyperfocal / zone is possible but may not stand up to pixel peeping viewing at high magnification, depending upon what you're shooting and pixel peeping.

Honestly the image on my micro 4/3 was giant bokeh so I can't see how the magnified view would be any better. I even resort to backing the lens off the adapter thinking that it might show if a difference in mount length would help.

 

[woof woof]

Update, I've put my faith in the lens, rattled off a roll at f4.5 and it'll go in the post for developing. 24 hour turnaround on the scans.



Honestly the image on my micro 4/3 was giant bokeh so I can't see how the magnified view would be any better. I even resort to backing the lens off the adapter thinking that it might show if a difference in mount length would help.

With MFT firstly you have to set the camera to "shoot without lens." You should then be able to see what you've pointed the lens at and see the effect of turning the focus ring. Once you've called up the magnified view you should be able to focus accurately. In the past I've easily focussed accurately with 50mm at f1.2 and 25mm at f0.95 on MFT.

Hope the film turns out

 

[tikkathreebarrel]

Well.... pause for breath........

'course the lens flippin' well works!!!!.

I think it'll stay on my Bessa R whilst I learn to keep my fingers out of the frame but then there'll be no reason not to pop it on any old Soviet rangefinder...

Thanks for your support and encouragement.