Hasselblad - looking for advice please

Chris_911

Chris_911

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Chris Tarling
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I have long lusted after a Hasselblad film camera.
It's an irrational desire on many levels, but there it is. I want one.

So, I am just starting to have a serious look.
There are a couple of books I've identified that I'm going to buy - 'Hasselblad Compendium' by Rick Nordin & 'The Hasselblad Manual' by Ernst Wildi

I'm hoping there are some users of the system on here that can offer some advice on which model would make the best purchase for me?
Waist level finder, maybe two lenses (wide and telephoto), film back.
I guess what I'm asking is where would be a good point to look in the long lineage of Hasselblad. Am I better at looking at something newer than the 500C/M?

I haven't set a budget - looking to get an initial usable set up first.
Age/cost/reliability - I simply don't know how the various models stack up.

Any advice will be gratefully received.
 
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Chris_911 said:
I have long lusted after a Hasselblad film camera.
It's an irrational desire on many levels, but there it is. I want one.

So, I am justing starting to have a serious look.
There are a couple of books I've identified that I'm going to buy - 'Hasselblad Compendium' by Rick Nordin & 'The Hasselblad Manual' by Ernst Wildi

I'm hoping there are some users of the system on here that can offer some advice on which model would make the best purchase for me?
Waist level finder, maybe two lenses (wide and telephoto), film back.
I guess what I'm asking is where would be a good point to look in the long lineage of Hasselblad. Am I better at looking at something newer than the 500C/M?

I haven't set a budget - looking to get an initial usable set up first.
Age/cost/reliability - I simply don't know how the various models stack up.

Any advice will be gratefully received.
Click to expand...

Long time user here of several 500cm. Sadly, prices are a lot higher than they were a few years ago but they're still an excellent camera. If you don't need any of the advantages of the later models, a 500cm is perfect, IMO. Interchangeable screens, lots of accessories, fully mechanical so need for batteries or electronics failures. I made the mistake of selling them in the past and always missed it so won't make the mistake again.

Looking online they are IRO £1,500 now with an 80mm and back. Backs go for around £150-£200 from dealers. 50mm is a great choice for a wider lens and aren't that expensive either.

The good thing is, buying used you won't lose much if you plan to sell in the future because it's not for you (unless you pay dealer premium of course, but that comes with advantages like warranty (6 months LCE) and 14 days distance selling regulations).
 
I spent many years trying to decide on whether I should tie my money up in Hasselblad kit - I'm glad I did. It's a minefield and you can so easily pay OTT prices and be given a 'load of old flannel' by so many 'experts'. :rolleyes:

To get you started with a good grip on the slippery (and expensive) slope, I would advise you to get a 500C/M with an 80mm CT* lens. Be patient and try and get one that has been serviced recently if you can. This will stand you in good stead if you decide to progress on to bigger, better, faster more and it will be easy for you to get your money back if you don't.

Don't be tempted to buy other accessories until you actually NEED them. The only exception would be a viewfinder if you can't get on with the waist level finder, but it's worth persevering with the WLF.

The book is a good call. (y)

Good luck.
 
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As most Hasselblads were working cameras, many of them were serviced regularly, so a rough looking body may be a better buy than a smart looking machine, which wasn't used regularly and so may need an (expensive) overhaul.

You may also be advised to avoid chrome lenses, the black ones are newer and had various improvements.

Camera Hasselblad 500cm Black TZ40 1010530.JPG
 
Thanks to everyone that has replied (so far) - all great info.
I will get on and order the books.

Are there any dealers that particularly specialise in used 'blads?
 
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I'm looking at a 501C body which seems to be good condition, but I'm a little concerned about the condition of the underside of the camera. It's for sale online so all I have is an image.
Would anyone that is familiar with these cameras care to comment?
There appears to be damage (not sure I'd call it 'wear') - are the damaged parts easily replaceable?
Is this typical of the model?
Screenshot 2026-03-21 at 17.16.10.jpg
 
Looks like it could be corrosion ?
Ask the seller
 
F1.2 said:
Looks like it could be corrosion ?
Ask the seller
Click to expand...
He describes them as the rubber feet.
The seller is a little quick to say 'yeah they all do that'.
I'm going to pass on this particular camera body - all the others I look at for comparison don't have this deterioration.

I have no idea is this is an easily replaceable part.
 
I have discovered that the rubber part at the bottom of the camera is easily, and relatively cheaply replaceable.
I'm going to pass on the camera I'm looking at I think - not because of this but because I've decided that what I really want is a 501CM.
 
I have a clean 500 C/M that could be for sale if you are interested ?
What price was the one you were looking at? Did it come with a lens if so what one was it.
 
F1.2 said:
I have a clean 500 C/M that could be for sale if you are interested ?
What price was the one you were looking at? Did it come with a lens if so what one was it.
Click to expand...
Thanks - it's a 501CM that I would like.
The one I was looking at was body, WLF and A12 film back. No lens.
That suits me as the two lenses I am leaning towards are the 50mm Distagon and 150mm Sonnar - i.e. wider and narrower FOV than the 80mm 'std' lens.
Those two lenses would suit my photography far better.
 
I was fortunate enough to win a 501CM in a Photo Answers portrait competition back in 2009 I think, as I already had a 500CM, I sold it through Amateur Photographer classifieds and bought a 150mm, and an A24 back and some other bits which I still have and use occasionally when I want some quality B&W images.

I would never sell my kit as it produces wonderful images, join the gang you won't regret it!
 
Chris_911 said:
Thanks - it's a 501CM that I would like.
The one I was looking at was body, WLF and A12 film back. No lens.
That suits me as the two lenses I am leaning towards are the 50mm Distagon and 150mm Sonnar - i.e. wider and narrower FOV than the 80mm 'std' lens.
Those two lenses would suit my photography far better.
Click to expand...

With noticing that with the few improvements of the 501cm vs the 500cm (most, IMO negligible) and it is a lot newer, IIRC, I don't think you can change the winding knob if that is something that bothers you, although I am sure you have found this from your research. The focussing screen however should be a big improvement. I would love an acute matte for my 500cm but at the moment they are a bit pricey.
 
Downhill Specialist said:
With noticing that with the few improvements of the 501cm vs the 500cm (most, IMO negligible) and it is a lot newer, IIRC, I don't think you can change the winding knob if that is something that bothers you, although I am sure you have found this from your research. The focussing screen however should be a big improvement. I would love an acute matte for my 500cm but at the moment they are a bit pricey.
Click to expand...
The downside, and it may mean I don't actually end up with one, is that the 501CMs do seem to be pricey.
 
Chris_911 said:
The downside, and it may mean I don't actually end up with one, is that the 501CMs do seem to be pricey.
Click to expand...
To be honest, for the gains, I am not sure I would be spending the extra given the current pricing depending what you want to do with it. A nice, serviced 500cm is a properly good camera, IMO.

(BTW, I am glad your F5 sold. I was so tempted by that but will have to stick with the EOS 1V now)
 
Downhill Specialist said:
To be honest, for the gains, I am not sure I would be spending the extra given the current pricing depending what you want to do with it. A nice, serviced 500cm is a properly good camera, IMO.

(BTW, I am glad your F5 sold. I was so tempted by that but will have to stick with the EOS 1V now)
Click to expand...
Yes I fear you are right. The seller of the 501C that I posted about above is trying hard to get me to buy it. It's not a bad price (I think) but it should have the Acute Matte 'D' screen and he can't confirm that that's what it has.
It's the downside of the books I have been reading - getting to the point where I convince myself I want 'X' when something cheaper would be fine. I confess I am hesitating as I don't have funds to throw around and I'm asking myself how much I'll use it.
Conversely I'm current very intrigued by the potential of the 'square' image!
 
I contacted the V service centre and was told 6 to 8 weeks for any work .
 
So, I picked it up today. Apologies for the iPhone images. It is in simply lovely condition.
I have two 'challenges'.
I really see no need to keep the CW Winder. It's in lovely condition though, so hopefully a good sale item. BUT, there is no winder crank with the camera. The OE Winder Crank E (44086) sell for quite unfathomable money. But I've found a guy on ebay who 3D prints alternatives.
Focusing! The camera has its correct Acute Matte 'D' focusing screen. But this is simply a ground screen with marks on it - it has no split prism. Now, back in the day I used a grid focusing screen in my OM-2N as my 'normal' everyday focusing screen so I know I can (could!) do it. But I may look for a split prism screen. I had anticipated simply selling the PME 3 prism it has come with but now I'm not so sure.

IMG_4243.jpgIMG_4242.jpgIMG_4241.jpgIMG_4240.jpgIMG_4239.jpg
 
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I now recognise that I can't actually focus this camera - and it's nothing to do with the camera. I wear glasses for close work, which shouldn't be a problem but I think my prescription is not optimised for truly close work. It's not a problem with my digital cameras as they all have built-in eyesight correction. My 503 has a PME3 prism finder fitted. I am assuming the lens in the eyepiece is 'uncorrected'. The lens in the eyepiece is removable but the Hasselblad correction lenses are very hard to find.

I think I am going to try to sell the PME3 prism finder - it is in excellent condition and functions as it should. I still need to check the metering against my light meter and grey card. Though I quite like the fact that it enables 'eye level' photography.

My options would seem to be:
Try a focusing screen with a split prism. Hasselblad screens are rare and very expensive though. I could try one of the screens posted above, but it'll throw the metering in the PME3 out - but before I got this camera I was assuming I'd be carrying my light meter everywhere, so perhaps not a big downside! Cheapest option BUT doesn't correct my vision of the focusing screen - I would be hoping that I can see the screen well enough to use the prism. Hardly an enjoyable way to use a camera.
Get a range of correction lenses made up for the PME3. £££???
Try a viewfinder magnifying hood in place of the PME3. The third version of this, part 52096, looks a possibility - viewfinder magnification is 3x I believe, and crucially it has a built-in eyesight correction adjustment. Not an elegant solution but should work, and might help me tie down what correction lens I might need for the PME3.
Try a waist level finder (42315) in place of the prism finder. Magnification is 4x. Need to find one in a condition that will match my camera (£££). Correction lenses seem to be more widely available than for the PME3 though.

Any options I haven't thought of?
 
Get a WLF - it's the best way to use the camera IMHO. It slows you down and makes the whole experience so much enjoyable. Although everything is the wrong way round, it only takes a few films to get used to it.

I imported a PM5 VF from Japan to use for portraits, but it mostly stays in the bag. I wear glasses for both close up and distance too and have never had a problem with either.

I find the little magnifier in the WLF is very helpful, especially with the split prism screen.
 
On metering, I haven’t yet made it publicly available, but I’ve made an iOS app specifically to meet my Hasselblad with 80mm metering needs. There are apps out there, but I wanted to also log an image of the scene with metered and set exposure info and geotag data embedded (some times I eg expose over the metered value).

Anyway, very niche app for my own use really but if it would be useful I can see if I can get it published at some point.

Of course if you have other meters, stick with what you know.

(I also made an app to measure the shutter speeds on the slow escapement at 1/15 and slower…but just told me what I already know, they’re way off!)
 
I just found these Chris (in case you get a WLF):

www.ebay.co.uk

Hasselblad Waist-Level Viewfinder Magnifier Diopter Eyepiece New | eBay UK

Compatible with: Hasselblad 500cm, 501cm, 503cx, 503cxi, 503cw, 201, 202, 203, 205, 553, 555 Hasselblad waist-level viewfinders. Lens size increased by 45% compared to the original factory size. Four-layer ultra-transmission plus anti-reflective coating eliminates the original factory’s hazy effect.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Sky said:
I just found these Chris (in case you get a WLF):

www.ebay.co.uk

Hasselblad Waist-Level Viewfinder Magnifier Diopter Eyepiece New | eBay UK

Compatible with: Hasselblad 500cm, 501cm, 503cx, 503cxi, 503cw, 201, 202, 203, 205, 553, 555 Hasselblad waist-level viewfinders. Lens size increased by 45% compared to the original factory size. Four-layer ultra-transmission plus anti-reflective coating eliminates the original factory’s hazy effect.
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...
Thanks.
I found those but they are -ve values only.
 
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