Graduated Filters - are they still necessary?

EspressoJunkie

EspressoJunkie

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I don't do a lot of landscape photography, but seeing as I live within a short drive of some stunning scenery (basically all of Northern Ireland!) It's something I want to do more of.

I've just got myself an appropriate lens (Fuji 10-24) and I'm now thinking about getting some filters (Kood or Cokin probably).

Now I know I'll want a couple of ND's and possibly a polarizer, but these days, with PS and improved dynamic range etc, is there still a need for graduated filters?

Forgive my ignorance but if their purpose is only to darken the sky (and not for any long exposure aspect), then these days could you not either bracket photos or darken the sky using a gradient in PS?

Or is there something I'm missing?
 
You can get similar results using PS, but you are adding another step in your post processing.
I shoot landscapes and always carry the filters with me. Take a look at the Lee Starter Kit which probably will bring you good results. That's the one that I use. Thanks
 
Filters can be useful if you can get a demarcation between the bright sky and darker foreground that is roughly horizontal and level. Usually seascapes.
Not much use for a mountainous scene so bracket the shots and work on them in pp. Will give better results.
 
For me, there are so many times that grad filters are ineffective ( mountains, trees, buildings, windmills etc etc, on horizon ) that they seem a total waste of time and money. Lightroom and PS have numerous ways of replacing them in a much more efficient way. Grads with a brush removal from where you don't want them, HDRs, exposure blending etc.
 
Currently I use ND grad filters but at the same time I am learning the art of blending in the hopes of not having to use them as much.

I think there is still a place for them where multiple exposures are not an option such as in situations where you have moving objects.

I think the notion that you can just use the grad filter in Lightroom is rubbish. You simply can't pull back details and colour if it doesn't exist in the original file in the first place. Yes some cameras are better at dynamic range but you still won't pull out all the details with a grad filter if the dynamic range is too high. You'll either end up with noise in shadows or highlights that can't be fully recovered.
 
EspressoJunkie said:
Thanks for the input everyone.

So say I ended up just wanting some ND's and a polarizer, are there any advantages to square filters over circular ones?
Click to expand...

That's all I use. The best modern cameras have amazing dynamic range so if you're careful not to blow important highlights you can get exactly the same effect as a graduated filter in post processing. Often much better actually with careful use of local adjustment brushes, and Lightroom CC now has the option to cut out around trees and building etc that protrude above the grad line.

The only advantage of slot-in filters over screw-in is the ability to adjust the grad line, but against that they're cumbersome and bulky, can be expensive and the best screw-ins are better quality with multi-coating etc. On the other hand, there is a certain pleasure about using square grads - setting up a tripod, fiddling about with this and that filter, then seeing the result pop up there and then on the LCD ;)
 
HoppyUK said:
and Lightroom CC now has the option to cut out around trees and building etc that protrude above the grad line.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that, do you know of any YouTube tutorials on how this is done?

Ps, it would be know point in trying to explain how it's done, I'm a need to see it being done kind of person :)
 
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I no longer seem to use them at all. Though I occasionally take exposure bracketed shots that I can mix and match in Photoshop. Usually it is sufficient to to use the equivalent graduation in in the raw processor, which is far more accurate and versatile.

Though theoretically nothing can replace a polarisor, in practice they seem to spend their life gathering dust, to the extent I probably would not have one with me were the need to arise. And they are useless for panoramas , as their effect on the sky changes in relation to the direction of the light.
 
Circular ones are allegedly easier to make a light tight seal via the thread. Square ones need a holder and a ring to fit on the lens plus foam or similar to make a light tight fit.

But......if you start messing around with square ones in front of your lens with a tripod then you get massive bragging rights with Joe Public who think you are an expert!
 
The problem with screw in grads is that you cannot move the grad line up or down, so personally I would suggest they are worse than useless.

I still use rectangular ND grads, particularly a 1 -stop, in conjunction witha polariser for nice attractive skies. I don't find the grad filter in Lightroom very easy to use. But maybe i'm a bit of a luddite.
 
In my GAS days I bought a set ( as you do) and I could not get on with them at all , even using live view on tripod, I could not see the effect.
Sold them and now use bracketing and blending.
 
Nostromo said:
I didn't know that, do you know of any YouTube tutorials on how this is done?

Ps, it would be know point in trying to explain how it's done, I'm a need to see it being done kind of person :)
Click to expand...

Google just threw up this one
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TQP8AhwYio
It says it's available in Lightroom 6 but I have that and it's only Lightroom CC, the subscription version.

However, I don't bother with that. I just use the local Adjustment Brush with a big feather setting, and that has an erase function with lots of control. You can use it instead of the Radial Filter too (Jerry ;)) and for Vignettes.

ps Beware of that local Adjustment Brush, it is fantastically versatile, very addictive, and since there is always something extra to change, you can spend way too much time playing with it :D
 
HoppyUK said:
Google just threw up this one
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TQP8AhwYio
It says it's available in Lightroom 6 but I have that and it's only Lightroom CC, the subscription version.

However, I don't bother with that. I just use the local Adjustment Brush with a big feather setting, and that has an erase function with lots of control. You can use it instead of the Radial Filter too (Jerry ;)) and for Vignettes.

ps Beware of that local Adjustment Brush, it is fantastically versatile, very addictive, and since there is always something extra to change, you can spend way too much time playing with it :D
Click to expand...

In cases where you have tree branches in the shot using the brush is not that easy, Instead of using the brush, you can adjust the shadows in the grad filter.
 
ecoleman said:
In cases where you have tree branches in the shot using the brush is not that easy, Instead of using the brush, you can adjust the shadows in the grad filter.
Click to expand...

Yes, and you can do exactly the same with the Adjustment Brush - same range of control options.

I'm not saying using the brush in this way is better than the grad option, but it's a very good workaround if you don't have that. The local brush, grad and radial filters in LR are basically the same bit of software underneath, just with a slightly different control interface.
 
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