Framing a print to paper so that it doesn't bubble and sag over time!

Me²

Me²

Suspended / Banned
Messages
863
Name
Tom
Edit My Images
Yes
I've framed a few prints in the last 12-18 months or so, various frames, mounts and sizes etc. - all for me, family or friends but the universal problem with almost all seems to be that over time they sit in the frame un-taut (for want of a better descriptive term!) and sort of sag a bit and don't generally sit tight and neat in the frame as they once did. I have always just printed to the size of the frame and placed the paper print behind a mount with an aperture. I've never taped or used glue or anything like that before.

Therefore I have a question, or two, for those who sell quality framed prints.

1) What paper and or or website do you use to actually print your images? My own images are landscapes and I've almost universally used supersizeprint.co.uk and their 260gsm heavy weight satin paper option - perhaps too heavy? I print quite large - 30" plus.

2) What method or securing - if any - the paper in the frame to ensure that it stays neat, tight and taut for as long as possible in the frame would you recommend?
 
I think you'll find that the way you mount the photo is what's causing the problem... I'm guessing that the photo 'ruckles' and the mount stays flat?

This is the way I do it, an so far it's been fab - it allows the printed image to 'move' within the mount (it might expand a little if there's some moisture in the air, which causes the crinkling effect)

1. cut mount & aperture

2. cut backing board about 2mm smaller than mount

3. lie mount and backing board next to each other in the same orientation so one side is touching (the mount should be front side down) kind of looks like an open book.

4. tape down the join of the two boards - it won't show on the outside cos the tape is inside the 'sandwich' and now you have something that is the shape of a greeting card with a window in it.

5. lay it flat on the table, and lay your image on the backing board, and close the mount over it - you should now see your pic through the aperture.

6. move your image until you are satisfied it is in the right position within the mount and plonk a paperweight on it to keep it still.

7. now open up the sandwich again - your image will be sat with the paperweight on it in exactly the position you want it.

8. here's the important bit - get two strips of tape (I use 'magic tape') about 2" (50cm) long, and place each one sticky side up (in 'up/down' orientation, NOT horizontal) under your image at the top so HALF is not sticking on anything. The next thing to do is get two more strips of tape (same size) and go crossways over the sticky ends of the tape that stick out above your image - this secures it to the backing board only, and NOT the mount. (I think museums call this a 'T-mount')

9. get some double sided tape, and run this around your image - leaving a 1cm gap between pic and edge of tape. You do not want the double sided tape to touch your image at all!

10. now close the sandwich - you will have a beautifully mounted image that can 'move' within the mount, whilst not being constricted. And the double sided tape will stop any gaps showing if you look at your pic at an angle.

hope this helps!
x
 
Last edited:
On large print and framing jobs we use our hot press (vacuum press) to first "stick" the print to a substrate (mount board, corricore foam core etc) then laminate it all together again using the vacuum press.
There is never any ripple and your print is protected. The only downside is the machine is expensive as well as the materials but well worth it for a professional finish that will last for ever.
 
Doing step 9 is not necessary, when you put the "sandwich" in the frame, the packing board should exert enough pressure on the undermount to keep everything flat in the frame, as the backing board should be slightly curved so when you place in frame and secure with pins/points you flatten the backing board, then tape up the back.

Also you should be using some PH neutral tape to mount like ph7-70, this wont damage / discolour on your image over time.

Having a hot press and or pressure roller is just luxury, we have both at the shop the hot press can take 65" x 44" work, makes coating canvas prints a 5 min job and they are done, while the rollers can do anything 44" wide (cannot coat canvas on pressure rollers).
 
Ozei said:
What is the reason for making the backing board smaller than the mount?
Click to expand...

so if there is a tiny discrepancy (which sometimes happens if you haven't cut it correctly/squarely) you won't be trying to trim a bit off here and there.
 
mho said:
Doing step 9 is not necessary, when you put the "sandwich" in the frame, the packing board should exert enough pressure on the undermount to keep everything flat in the frame, as the backing board should be slightly curved so when you place in frame and secure with pins/points you flatten the backing board, then tape up the back.
Click to expand...

Mark, I agree - however, I use this method for preparing prints for camera club, so there is no frame/glass etc to hold the sandwich tight ;)
 
I wouldnt recommend sticking ph70 tape any more than 5mm deep on the print, any more as over time you will see where the tape is stuck to the back of the print in a slight ripple effect around the tape on the visible side of the print. ph7-70 is sticky enough to secure a 18x12 print securely using only 5mm on the print - most of which is covered by the mount anyway. Something I've learnt over the years - some of my earlier (unsold lol!) prints now have visible signs of over hinging.
Furthermore I wouldnt recommend hanging a framed print on an internal wall that is an uninsulated external wall as they are naturally prone to damp.
A permanent solution would be to mount the print on Daler Rownet Xtra Tac mount board as the backing board using a roller, however this renders the print to one time use on that board.
 
Last edited:
Some excellent advice, thank you everyone.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top