Flashguns in daylight.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dal
  • Start date Start date
Dal

Dal

Is always right
Suspended / Banned
Messages
2,636
Name
Darren
Edit My Images
Yes
First off, all the gear I have is this.

Nikon D300
Nikon D50
Nikon 18-55mm lens
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
SB25
SB800
Cactus V4 trigger
2x Cactus V4 receivers.
Lightstands.

I'm doing some photo's tonight and want to try some in daylight with the flashguns. Am I right in thinking that putting the SB25 & SB800 right next to each other would give me twice the power (read it on Flickr strobist group but can't understand that).

Would I also be better off using the D50 for the daylight shots as I can sync at 1/800th with that compared with 1/250th on the D300.

Any other little tips you could give would be great.

Thanks. :thumbs:

*Edit*

Looking at Joe McNally's blog, how can he get his camera at these settings with a flashgun '1/8000 @ f6.3', I've looked but can't spot it.
 
McNally uses FP sync to achieve 1/8000, with a D50 all you need is a neutered ttl cable
 
Flash In The Pan said:
McNally uses FP sync to achieve 1/8000, with a D50 all you need is a neutered ttl cable
Click to expand...

Edtog – Thank you for that, will give those a try later and see how I get on with them.

Flash - Aha, brilliant, thanks for that.

I’ve got one of these TTL cords aswell, just googled for the neutered cord and it took me to strobist.com with a tutorial so thanks for that.

I will try some tape over the TTL connectors first as I don’t want to snip the cord as I like the TTL aspect of it.

Thank you.
 
Edtog said:
All depends on the effect you want. If I want a really strong effect like this http://www.edwardmoss.co.uk/portrait/P8/ meter for the sky and fill in with flash, something a bit more subtle http://www.edwardmoss.co.uk/portrait/P3/ then underexpose the ambient by around 1/2stop and fill in with flash.
Click to expand...

There's some fantastic portrait shots on your website - the one of the surgeon in particular is superb. :thumbs: Enjoyed looking at the rest of your portfolio too, with some especially good architectural shots. There's not many can do architectural photography really well. Anyone can shoot a building - making it look out of the ordinary is a talent. IMHO.
 
Dal, a TTL cord doesn't need the contacts covering up - just set what you want on the flash.

To gain FP synch, you need to go into the camera menu, not on the flashgun. I don't know what your model has and hasn't got, but if you do have FP synch, then that is where you will find it - 1/250* (as in 1/250 with an asterix beside it is how it appears in the menu). Then you will gain the fast shutter speeds with flash, including off camera flash.

Putting the two together has the same effect as having a stronger unit.
 
Personally, I wouldn't worry about being able to shoot at such high shutter speeds - controlling aperture, setting a low ISO and the fact that unless there's been a nuclear blast nearby, you won't be shooting in THAT much light will mean you get sensible shutter speeds to hand hold anyway.

Don't know too much about the whole doubling-up flashes - I find it confusing too. :)

I just find that setting the background exposure is where I start, usually a stop or so underexposed, to get that deep, saturated sky you get when shooting with a polariser. Then I just direct the light in, just powering up until I get the amount of light that works. Trial and error is a great way of doing things and if the subject isn't going anywhere, it's the easiest route :)
 
Lensflare said:
Dal, a TTL cord doesn't need the contacts covering up - just set what you want on the flash.

To gain FP synch, you need to go into the camera menu, not on the flashgun. I don't know what your model has and hasn't got, but if you do have FP synch, then that is where you will find it - 1/250* (as in 1/250 with an asterix beside it is how it appears in the menu). Then you will gain the fast shutter speeds with flash, including off camera flash.

Putting the two together has the same effect as having a stronger unit.
Click to expand...

FP sync doesn't give you the same effect as taping over the contacts or snipping the ttl wires. FP sync is a series of lower powered rapid flashes, the neutered cable trick allows for full use of all the power the flash can put out...
 
Flash In The Pan said:
FP sync doesn't give you the same effect as taping over the contacts or snipping the ttl wires. FP sync is a series of lower powered rapid flashes, the neutered cable trick allows for full use of all the power the flash can put out...
Click to expand...
Cheers for that Flash, I tried it out over the weekend, shooting towards the sun, 1/4000th flash at full power, worked a treat.

well happy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top