First Try studio lights. Need some input and guidance.

naz1996

naz1996

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naz
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Here is my first attempt. Not liking the shadows. I'v used a Nissin di866 with an umbrella to the right and also have a continuous light to the left through an umbrella. I played with settings but could not get the nissin to fire without my onboard flash going off so have 3 lights here. I'd appreciate any help to get the lighting even and avoid shadows at the back. Thank you.

Some PP to include exposure adjustment and a lighten brush has been used on the last one.

1

IMG_4073 by t400her, on Flickr
2

IMG_4015 by t400her, on Flickr
3

IMG_4026 by t400her, on Flickr
4

IMG_4004 by t400her, on Flickr
 
Nice work Naz. I think you will be pleased with these shots.

You seem to have the lighting well balanced and there is an up an coming model there!
 
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Don't think you've done too. Ad there for a first go personally. I do see where you are coming from re the shadows, they're most noticeable in the second one where you needed more fill flash from the right.

You mention the on board flash triggering the nissin, do you have any wireless triggers at all?
 
Thank you both. Unfortunately I don't have any wireless triggers. Maybe it's something to think about. I will have another play and see what I could do. Which trigger would I need with the Nissin do you know? Thank you for the feedback.
 
You've got too many lights going on there, and little control. Kill the continuous light, and switch off the pop-up. Use just one umbrella with a reflector on the shadow side.

Your 600D has on-board mastering doesn't it? Should be able to control the Nissin with that, with the pop-up turned off. The pop-up will still fire during the exposure but at a very low level. You might see a reflection of it in the eyes, but it shouldn't really effect anything. To be 100% sure, put a piece of card in front of it, to shade the subject but allow the triggering signal to reach the Nissin.
 
Thanks Richard. I shall do just that and post some sample pics. I had another go this morning but this time let in light from a big window to the left. I shall post the shots later.
 
naz1996 said:
Thanks Richard. I shall do just that and post some sample pics. I had another go this morning but this time let in light from a big window to the left. I shall post the shots later.
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Yes, please post them up :)

You're creating a lot of problems mixing two light sources, when you're already struggling for control of exposures and brightness ratios. Possibly colour balance too.

Good portraiture almost always has just one main key light, even if more are used for different aspects, like a hair light or background light. You can get excellent results with just one light with/without a reflector* on the shadow side to taste. Keep it simple, less is more with lighting.

* A simple white/silver reflector is like having an extra light. Cheap to buy, or make one out of card and kitchen foil. A white pillowcase works well.
 
Thanks Donnie for the link, i saw them while browsing but was unsure of compatibility.

Richard, Thank you so much, i really appreciate all the help. I'm out and about at the minute but will post the pics i took this morning for more feedback. I shall have another gain with just the Nissin.
 
I personally like the lighting and the shadows. I would say the arm in image 4 looks a bit overexposed, the rest seem great though.
 
Thanks Kenny, really appreciate everyone taking the time to comment.

Ok had a chance today to import the photos in LR. The photos i took without the continuous light is really bad. I could not set the camera onboard flash to not flash at full power. I tried however with the continuos light set to only light the BG. then used the Nissin at full power. I tried to the left with a reflector and also tried it directly infront. Here are the shots. I can't say I like the 1st one as it is very grainy to me. I had to use a high ISO

1.
IMG_4445.jpg by t400her, on Flickr

2. Again, I used an ISO of 800 on this SO not too happy either.

IMG_4421.jpg by t400her, on Flickr

3. and I think this one was 400

IMG_4406.jpg by t400her, on Flickr

I would really appreciate any feedbacks on how I can im prove. Thank you.
 
I don't use Canon cameras and so can't comment on your statement that
I could not set the camera onboard flash to not flash at full power.
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but you really do need to lose the continuous light. You don't have to produce a white background, it's just making your life unnecessarily complicated - if you really want a white background, do one thing at a time, get the basics right and then worry about lighting the background later. The continuous light is very likely also the reason that the colour balance is different with every shot, this is inevitable with household electrical supplies, the voltage goes up and down every time someone switches something on or off in the house.

Yes, those images are suffering from digital noise. Some cameras are much better than others at high ISO settings. Unfortunately, continuous lighting requires high ISO settings, unless you use a really long shutter speed - another reason not to use it.

I think that, on balance, leaving aside the image noise and the colour balance, you're getting some very nice shots of a lovely child. The lighting seems to me to be pretty good, but if you got your other (Nissin) flashgun higher, it would be even better.
 
Don't try and destroy all the shadows as they are what make photographs actually interesting. They add depth to everything and with portraiture, stops faces from looking flat and uninteresting. Personally, I'd ditch the continuos light for now and concentrate on 1 single flash. Diffuse the light it creates as much as you can and gauge the results from there.

From what I can see, it looks like you are aiming for a "high key" look where the background is none existent, same with the shadows. Personally, I think you should try some high key shots using yourself as the model (its easy dont worry!) and get use to using 1 light source as a tool for creating nice emotion and tonally awesome shots.
 
Garry Edwards said:
I don't use Canon cameras and so can't comment on your statement that but you really do need to lose the continuous light. You don't have to produce a white background, it's just making your life unnecessarily complicated - if you really want a white background, do one thing at a time, get the basics right and then worry about lighting the background later. The continuous light is very likely also the reason that the colour balance is different with every shot, this is inevitable with household electrical supplies, the voltage goes up and down every time someone switches something on or off in the house.

Yes, those images are suffering from digital noise. Some cameras are much better than others at high ISO settings. Unfortunately, continuous lighting requires high ISO settings, unless you use a really long shutter speed - another reason not to use it.

I think that, on balance, leaving aside the image noise and the colour balance, you're getting some very nice shots of a lovely child. The lighting seems to me to be pretty good, but if you got your other (Nissin) flashgun higher, it would be even better.
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Thank you Gary. I really was trying to get rid of the shadows as I keep seeing most if the pro photos with shadowless backgrounds. I know uv got a long way to go still to get the light right and I know I will need to practice more to get it right. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain things to me. I can see how having the one light higher would help. I will have another attempt and this time ditch the continuous light completely. Thanks it's greatly appreciated.
 
James J said:
Don't try and destroy all the shadows as they are what make photographs actually interesting. They add depth to everything and with portraiture, stops faces from looking flat and uninteresting. Personally, I'd ditch the continuos light for now and concentrate on 1 single flash. Diffuse the light it creates as much as you can and gauge the results from there.

From what I can see, it looks like you are aiming for a "high key" look where the background is none existent, same with the shadows. Personally, I think you should try some high key shots using yourself as the model (its easy dont worry!) and get use to using 1 light source as a tool for creating nice emotion and tonally awesome shots.
Click to expand...

Thanks James. Your first line made me smile. I really thought people would see a good studio photo with no shadow better than one with shadows. I need to try and get it to feather more around my subjects. I liked the idea if high key yes but did not realise it would be that difficult to get it right. And definitely not having myself as a subject lol it's too daunting to even think about it lol! Easier to have my willing kids to pose!
Thank you both for the input. I totally appreciate it! I'm
Going to be busy for next few days but will have another try with just the Nissin as soon as I get a few minutes free time.

Naz
 
Definitely not mate when it comes to shadows, as the aim is to master the light to make the shadows work for you so you get the photo you want. The same can be said for reflections, which are equally useful (although not for portraiture! :D)

I only suggested trying out low key (stick your camera on a high F number like F18-22 for example and stick your flash on max power and keep it close to the subject) as its easier to see the effect 1 single light has on people. With high key shots you need alot of flash power and need to also use a high iso and bracket for the exposure accordingly. On the canon cameras in auto mode theres actually a way of doing high key shots by letting the camera figure out the settings. IF your camera is one that lets you do it, you'll have two rows with a picture at either side of each row, with how in focus you want the background and how light or dark you want it on the next row. If you put the background setting all the way to blurred (opens the aperture) and raise the brightness level on the other one (raises iso and sets the exposure bracket for you), you'll be able to see the desired affect you want and work your way from there by adding the flash in later.
 
Btw do you have a reflector? (pop up thing that costs around £10 for a big one) If you don't I'd highly recommend one as it gives you a tad more control when it comes to shadows.
 
naz1996 said:
Thanks Kenny, really appreciate everyone taking the time to comment.

Ok had a chance today to import the photos in LR. The photos i took without the continuous light is really bad. I could not set the camera onboard flash to not flash at full power. I tried however with the continuos light set to only light the BG. then used the Nissin at full power. I tried to the left with a reflector and also tried it directly infront. Here are the shots. I can't say I like the 1st one as it is very grainy to me. I had to use a high ISO

<snip>

I would really appreciate any feedbacks on how I can im prove. Thank you.
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You really need to sort out the on-board flash. See handbook.

James J said:
Definitely not mate when it comes to shadows, as the aim is to master the light to make the shadows work for you so you get the photo you want. The same can be said for reflections, which are equally useful (although not for portraiture! :D)

I only suggested trying out low key (stick your camera on a high F number like F18-22 for example and stick your flash on max power and keep it close to the subject) as its easier to see the effect 1 single light has on people. With high key shots you need alot of flash power and need to also use a high iso and bracket for the exposure accordingly. On the canon cameras in auto mode theres actually a way of doing high key shots by letting the camera figure out the settings. IF your camera is one that lets you do it, you'll have two rows with a picture at either side of each row, with how in focus you want the background and how light or dark you want it on the next row. If you put the background setting all the way to blurred (opens the aperture) and raise the brightness level on the other one (raises iso and sets the exposure bracket for you), you'll be able to see the desired affect you want and work your way from there by adding the flash in later.
Click to expand...

I'm not following this at all.
 
James J said:
Btw do you have a reflector? (pop up thing that costs around £10 for a big one) If you don't I'd highly recommend one as it gives you a tad more control when it comes to shadows.
Click to expand...

Thanks James. I will sit down and digest all the instructions properly and report back. I do have a pop up reflector. Thanks again I really appreciate it.
 
Thanks Richard. I could not find specific bits in the handbook but maybe have missed it.
 
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