Ektachrome E100SW, and Vuescan

ChrisR

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So, as mentioned, I bought 10 rolls of Ektachrome from the US fourcorners store, and they came with no expiry date. We established that Ektachrome E100S and E100 SW was replaced by E100G and E100GS in about 2003. I had 5 rolls of E100SW. The others were E200 which seems to have continued much later. So I decided to shoot the E100SW at ISO 100, and ask Peak Images for a clip test.

I got the film back on Wednesday, and scanned it over the next couple of days. I scanned the first frame with Silverfast SE Plus on my Plustek 7500i, and for fun scanned the same from on a trial version of Vuescan. The scans were astoundingly different, and the Vuescan looked quite a bit better, so after a bit I sucked in my breath and finally bought the Pro version of Vuescan, which I used for the rest of the film. I think this might have been a good thing; it certainly seemed easier to use, although there are penty of ways to get things wrong!

I'll put some shots in a later post in this thread.

There was no feedback on the clip test, but having eyeballed the shots before and after I thought they had carried on with standard processing. But I decided to call Peak and ask, and I spoke to the technician who'd done the work. He thought the film must have been in date, as he said he hadn't noticed any substantial colour cast (more on this later). When I told him I thought it must have dated from about 2003, he was a bit surprised (he might have been misled by the lovely fresh looking can). I asked advice on shooting, and he said shoot at 100, but if it was old stock he would normally shorten the processing to reduce the brown->red shift that older film tends to produce.

So I carried on scanning. However, I did get rather uncomfortable with the colours. This film is E100SW, where the W is for "warm", and at first I blamed this. Then I thought I'd try Vuescan's "Restore Fading" button. I didn't check the manual until later, but it says:

This option is used to restore the effects of faded film dyes. Slide film often shifts towards red over time, and color negative film towards cyan. If you select this option, the film type in the Color tab isn't used.

The results were immediately much better, and I carried on with this option. I didn't go back and re-scan the earlier frames, which was stupid.

1) This was the first frame scanned with Silverfast, pretty much default options (but I'm nver sure how much it has "remembered" from previous sessions):



2) The same frame scanned with Vuescan, the first scan from my newly acquired version:



3) A later frame (all scanned with Vuescan now), at which point I was getting pretty suspicious:



4) The next frame scanned with the Restore Fading button checked, looks much more like the real thing:



So, my feeling is that this film IS pretty faded, and for various reasons the Peak technician missed it (the first few frames don't look so obvious). I'm planning to carry on shooting it at 100, but will include a note next time it goes back to Peak giving clues on the age and (perhaps) mentioning the shorter dev times.

Silverfast really screwed up the first frame; there's really no colour to the lavender flowers, and the green is excessive. But I think I need to re-scan those earlier frames with the Restore Fading button selected.

Whatcher think?
 
Have you tried looking at these by just holding them up to the light as a purple cast like that should be fairly obvious? Having never shot E100SW I have no idea as to its colour balance but the Silverfast version looks perhaps more like I would expect a slide to look.

By default vuescan tends to give a rather dull and unsaturated look to slide scans in my experience, which coupled with the usually undersaturated and unrepresentive default colour profile of most scanners gives results which are usually nothing near the original. To correct the colour balance in Vuescan (white balance and exposure) right click on an area of the image which is white or grey and this should correct the purple cast (Turn off the 'restore fading obviously)

The only way that I've found to get a fairly accurate representation of a colour slide is to buy an IT-8.7 profiling target (about £20 - £30 from Wolf Faust http://www.targets.coloraid.de/) to calibrate the scanners response. You can definitely see the benefits:

Unprofiled (only levels)


House Gardens unprofiled copy by s162216, on Flickr

Profiled (only levels and sharpening)


Wallington Hall Gardens by s162216, on Flickr

If your interested in how to profile your scanner using a target and Vuescan, theres a quick guide by me in this thread here:

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=5718450&postcount=8
 
Thanks Samuel. Looking at the first frame, it is somewhere between the first two images above. The lavender flowers are definitely much more purple than the Silverfast scan showed, but the stes and leaves are greener than the Vuescan scan.

I guess I can try the colour balance trick, although many shots don't seem to have areas of white or grey, and when I've tried it before in Aperture I've got varying results with different parts of the image!

I couldn't do IT8 profiling with the version of Silverfast I had; I'd forgotten that Vuescan Pro allowed this. But I'd probably need the "all you can eat" pack, as I use Fuji slide film as well, so that's another 80 Euros!
 
I couldn't do IT8 profiling with the version of Silverfast I had; I'd forgotten that Vuescan Pro allowed this. But I'd probably need the "all you can eat" pack, as I use Fuji slide film as well, so that's another 80 Euros!

You don't need to match specific films to specific targets, my target is one designed for Ektachrome yet it works perfectly fine and gives much improved scans with Velvia 50 and 100 and Provia 400X. Velvia 50 is a little problematic sometimes with its extremely saturated reds which sometimes look slightly too pink in certain shades, but even then its still better than it being unprofiled!

If you were running a pro scanning lab then having every target would be key for getting an exact as possible scan, but just the one will do fine and show a great improvement. Get a target designed for the film you use the most and work from there.

For example Velvia 50 with no profile


Bus without profile by s162216, on Flickr

Velvia 50 with Ektachrome target profile


Bus profile copy by s162216, on Flickr
 
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