Easy way of extracting film tab from cannister

JeffHaynes

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I was fed up of struggling to break open film cannisters (35mm) in a changing bag, not knowing if I was damaging the film itself before loading onto the reel.

After a bit of research and 5 minutes of experimentation I came up with a zero-cost perfect solution.

Post-it notes!

I found this method on the interwebs initially - http://blog.afiori.com/2011/02/how-to-extract-film-from-rewound-roll.html

Not having any double sided tape around the house - I used a humble Post-it note to do the job. Simply by tearing the note to fit the size of the slot in the cartridge I inserted the note sticky side down, twiddled the cannister knob a little et voila! is was able extract the film tab from the cannister!

Smug grins all round!
 
If you're using a manual rewind camera, you can avoid all of this faff by leaving a bit of the leader out when rewinding - you should feel the leader come loose from the right side of the camera (its a loss of tension near the end), and you can then open the back.
That way, you can load the film directly on the reel feeding from the canister.
 
I've got an easier way...

Custom Setting 2 on the EOS3 set to 1 - "Leader Out Rewind".

and in fairness, I never have any problems breaking open a film canister with my bare hands anyway - thumb in the film slot and pull and the canister just peels apart.
 
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Thanks all. I dont have a EOS, but manual rewind - I tend to get over enthusiastic!! Plus I have fat finger syndrome so my changing bag becomes a one-sided fist fight!. Post -it notes for me..
 
Nice! I use a piece of old film with sticky tape on it.
 
If you're using a manual rewind camera, you can avoid all of this faff by leaving a bit of the leader out when rewinding - you should feel the leader come loose from the right side of the camera (its a loss of tension near the end), and you can then open the back.
That way, you can load the film directly on the reel feeding from the canister.

^^^ THIS ^^^

In addition, with auto rewind, simply listen for the film leader leaving the take up spool and either open thé back or batterry compartmernt to stop the motor

Some people believe it's all too easy to mix exposed and unexposed films with leaders left out but it's nothing to fold thé leader back on itself which offers a distinct reminder as well as stopping it being accidently being drawn into the film cartridge.
 
Mine come out easy...


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If you're using a manual rewind camera, you can avoid all of this faff by leaving a bit of the leader out when rewinding - you should feel the leader come loose from the right side of the camera (its a loss of tension near the end), and you can then open the back.
That way, you can load the film directly on the reel feeding from the canister.

Yep this is way to go. Have used this technique literally 1000s times and never fogged a single frame,
If you hold the camera up to your ear you will hear it come off the spindle as well as feeling the release in tension.

However, tear off the end leaving a jagged edge to distinguish between an exposed film and a new one. Before loading the film on to the reel just tidy up the jagged edge with straight cut and it will slip straight on.

You don't need any over engineered gadgets, this is simplicity itself.
 
Some people believe it's all too easy to mix exposed and unexposed films with leaders left out but it's nothing to fold thé leader back on itself which offers a distinct reminder as well as stopping it being accidently being drawn into the film cartridge.

Never really understood when people think that's an issue - use a pen, rip the leader, or as Asha suggested - it's not that difficult! I usually don't even bother doing any of those, because a leader that has been in a camera for a while has a very distinctive kink/bent shape that isn't on any new film roll.
 
I used to give the leader an extra kinking as part of the reloading routine as well as keeping unexposed film in the box until needed. Of course, once I stopped doing my own D&P, I used to let the leader go all the way in and let the D&P bods sort it out - zero chance of a doubly exposed film then!!!
 
Never really understood when people think that's an issue - use a pen, rip the leader, or as Asha suggested - it's not that difficult! I usually don't even bother doing any of those, because a leader that has been in a camera for a while has a very distinctive kink/bent shape that isn't on any new film roll.

If your shooting 6-12 films in a day, they are not in the camera for long it is very easy to mix up exposed films with unexposed films. They also don't develop a kink. That's why I suggest tearing off the leader.
If you keep the film in the camera for weeks it's not really an issue.
 
If your shooting 6-12 films in a day, they are not in the camera for long it is very easy to mix up exposed films with unexposed films. They also don't develop a kink. That's why I suggest tearing off the leader.
If you keep the film in the camera for weeks it's not really an issue.

Marker pen, tear the leader... it all works for me :clap:
 
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