Dorr studio flash?

srichards

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Are Dorr any good? I notice Harrison Cameras have a complete studio beginners set. I've never heard of them but they appear to be German and started in the 70s. No one seems to have reviewed them.

http://www.harrisoncameras.co.uk/St...BL-160Ws-Studio-Flash-Complete-Kit_371266.htm

Modelling light isn't proportional and there isn't much on the specifications. But at £300 for 3 lights and a few gubbins it seems like it is a low risk way of getting into flash. And it isn't interfit ;)

I was all set for the elinchroms ( http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-elinchrom-d-lite-one-rx-softbox-kit/p1533300 ) which are significantly more expensive but have the funky trigger system and are well made.

Are they worth a punt or is it better to save up for the Elinchroms?
 
Look almost identical as the photosel, elemental, interfit, etc, etc.. - basically its a cloned version & I've seen it with at least 5 different names on.

I'd buy the Lencarta smartflash...

FYI..

I own no Lencarta equipment or have anything to do with Lencarta

But speak to Garry..
 
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Availability is the issue with lencarta at the moment. If I ordered now it would be mid Feb at the earliest before I got my mitts on them.

I'm also drawn to the elinchrom because of the skyport system too.

If the dorr were a hidden gem then I'd give them a go but if they're just the same stuff I've already discounted as being poor build quality/performance then they're no good...

I must be driving Garry bonkers by now ;)
 
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They're the usual ebay specials Suz, over-branded with a hundred different names. You never know quite what you're getting, though TBF my limited experience of these things is that they're maybe not as bad as they're often painted and you certainly get a lot for your money. All cheap, generally low quality kit, but a lot of it! What service support there is if you have a problem, is questionable, and you'll certainly be limited with choice of light modifiers. Personally, I wouldn't.

On the other hand, I think those little Elinchrom D-Lite Ones are wonderful, I use them a lot, very small and light - provided 100Ws is enough power for you. For basic portraiture, it is, from head and shoulders (need very little power for that) to small groups. Remember that raising the ISO one stop effectively doubles the power output, but if you're considering function work or larger groups, 400Ws would be better. Otherwise, D-Lites are very high spec for entry level - Skyport, proportional modelling light, digital control, cooling fan etc. Recycle time at full power is only just fast enough for my taste, but okay, plus the very handy bonus of faster than average flash durations - around 1/1000sec in terms of shutter speed equivalents, which is roughly half most others.

For my money, and assuming you're serious about building a decent studio outfit, I'd start with the D-Lite One umbrella kit, and Lencarta Profold softboxes that push up/down like an umbrella - they're so much easier if you have to pack away each time. Bessel are similar, also great value. Also consider three types of umbrella - shoot-through, white and silver - cheap as chips (eg Kood) and give different looks. Maybe add a third more powerful head at a later date :thumbs:
 
I did find a kit that was an RX1 and a more powerful one as well which might be a good compromise between price and light output.

Just noticed on the Bessel site there are some continuous lights with softboxes which will do the job I am doing now without any faff. Then I can spend time saving up for the right studio lights :thumbs:
 
Availability is the issue with lencarta at the moment. If I ordered now it would be mid Feb at the earliest before I got my mitts on them.

I'm also drawn to the elinchrom because of the skyport system too.

If the dorr were a hidden gem then I'd give them a go but if they're just the same stuff I've already discounted as being poor build quality/performance then they're no good...

I must be driving Garry bonkers by now ;)
The Lencarta SmartFlash is a brand new model, with full remote control. They've been under development for a long time and the plan was to launch them at the Photography Show (new model of Focus on Imaging) in March and to have them available from mid Feb.
That plan didn't work because of higher than expected demand for the existing model, which should have lasted until then, and they ran out.

So, when they leave the factory on the 7th Jan we will get enough in by air to meet the orders that exist at the time, and the balance of the first batch will arrive by sea mid February latest. The first batch is due to arrive on the 14th Jan. The same goes for the ElitePro, which is also a brand new model, more powerful but otherwise similar.

Richard's comments on power are right, I can't say otherwise becaues that's exactly what I've been saying for years:) But personally I feel that 200Ws is about as low as most people should go for home studio use, less power than that can result in light pollution from daylight coming into the room, and the lower powered lights also need to work harder.

There's a reason why most of the flash heads bought in this country are either Elinchrom or Lencarta, it's as simple as this - you get what you pay for:)
Just noticed on the Bessel site there are some continuous lights with softboxes which will do the job I am doing now without any faff. Then I can spend time saving up for the right studio lights :thumbs:
Please don't buy continuous lights as a kind of poor man's studio flash, you'll be disappointed.
 
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D-Lite Ones with 100Ws give exactly f/11 at 1m and ISO100 with the standard 66x66cm softboxes, about half a stop less with a bigger double-diffuser softbox. So for head and shoulders you'll likely be around half or quarter power, just right for solo portraits and couples.

Things begin to change a lot when it comes to group shots, where you need to both move the lights back further and might also want a higher f/number for depth of field. Suddenly you need maybe three stops more, which is either 800Ws or bumping the ISO to 800.

IMHO, the difference between 100Ws and 200Ws is there of course, but not really a deal breaker or deal maker - it's only one stop of ISO in practical terms. If you definitely need more power, then you really need 400Ws or 600Ws to make a significant difference (though bear in mind they won't turn down so low either, if that's a consideration).
 
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I wouldn't waste time or money on anything less than 200w.

In the spirit of Christmas.

I have a set of 3 x 160w (similar to the above) that I am prepared to lend you for 3 months with stands & brollies - may even add a small softbox.
- IF you collect & return them from nr Heathrow Airport.

I only use them for background lighting & I've plenty of lights.....
 
I wouldn't waste time or money on anything less than 200w.

In the spirit of Christmas.

I have a set of 3 x 160w (similar to the above) that I am prepared to lend you for 3 months with stands & brollies - may even add a small softbox.
- IF you collect & return them from nr Heathrow Airport.

I only use them for background lighting & I've plenty of lights.....

Thanks for the offer (y) but I'd rather have my own than risk misfortune to someone elses!


T

Please don't buy continuous lights as a kind of poor man's studio flash, you'll be disappointed.

I'm not expecting much from them. They'll double as a video light source too so they're not a complete waste of money. I can also perfect softbox folding and not knocking them over which will be useful practice when I have something that is more expensive ;)
 
Please listen to Garry, those continuous light kits are a method for buying frustration rather than an introduction to lighting.

You could search the lighting forum for other peoples experiences if you need convincing.
 
I know continuous lighting is crap but that's what I have to make do with just now. It should only be for a few months anyway :)
 
Continuous lighting has some way to go before it goes mainstream.

Large LED panels et al can have specific uses though, especially surrounding newborn babies whose new mummies 'think' will suffer permanent retina damage from a flash, and for some commercial photographers that have to run with video capture at the same time for certain clients.
 
Bessel lights have turned up. They seem ok build wise. Will take ages to put them together as they're in a gazillion boxes.
 
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