Do i need more than the B&W ND110

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lee_barro

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Lee
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So im thinking about purchasing a big stopper. i have looked into this a little and i have seen that the lee filter system is one of the best if not the best. only problem is its out of stock alot. ive been looking at the B&W ND110, my main question is will this filter work for the long exposures of the sea and sunsets you see etc or will i need some grad filters aswel. i am new to the whole world of nd filters so any help will be great.

Sorry if this has been posted before, i have had a quick look but couldnt find what i was looking for.

Lee
 
lee_barro said:
So im thinking about purchasing a big stopper. i have looked into this a little and i have seen that the lee filter system is one of the best if not the best. only problem is its out of stock alot. ive been looking at the B&W ND110, my main question is will this filter work for the long exposures of the sea and sunsets you see etc or will i need some grad filters aswel. i am new to the whole world of nd filters so any help will be great.

Sorry if this has been posted before, i have had a quick look but couldnt find what i was looking for.

Lee
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It will work in that it will give you long exposures, it won't help in evening out differences between dark and light areas.

I'v had my eye on a B&W ND110 multicoated aswell, I'v just gone from uncoated circular polarizers and grads in the past as the cost for coated versions was so high but I'm guessing that with the long exposures of a 10 stopper any faults would be multiplied?
 
It will work for seas, ideal. For sunsets it might be too long an exposure, the sun may end up oblong shaped.

You will still need ND Grads if the sky is much brighter than the foreground, they fit in front of the Big Stopper. Think of it this way, the big stopper slows the whole thing down but there could still be a big dynamic range between the sky and the foreground which you need to correct with a grad.
 
ok thanks, so i understand that obviously the lee system they all just slot in. if i were to get the ND110 and then decide i wish to use some grad filters along with this how would that work? would i be able to use this screw on nd110 and then the lee system for a grad filter? if not how would i do this? if it is possible?

what are the differences in the coatings on the nd?
 
lee_barro said:
ok thanks, so i understand that obviously the lee system they all just slot in. if i were to get the ND110 and then decide i wish to use some grad filters along with this how would that work? would i be able to use this screw on nd110 and then the lee system for a grad filter? if not how would i do this? if it is possible?
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No, unless you bought a 105mm ND110 and the Lee filter ring adapter so you could screw it in onto the front of the filter holder, but that would cost more than a big stopper, so would be pretty pointless.

The good thing about the lee, is you can set up the ND grad in the second slot, get everything all lined up and the correct exposure and focus, lock everything of and then slide the big stopper in behind the grad.

When you have screw in 10 stoppers, eveytime time you want to refocus or recopose, you have to unscrew it and then set up, then screw it in again.
With the lee, just pull it out, recompose or focus and push it in again.

makes life so much easier.
 
lee_barro said:
ok thanks, so i understand that obviously the lee system they all just slot in. if i were to get the ND110 and then decide i wish to use some grad filters along with this how would that work? would i be able to use this screw on nd110 and then the lee system for a grad filter? if not how would i do this? if it is possible?

what are the differences in the coatings on the nd?
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Simple. ND 10 has a filter thread, so just screw in lee system on top. I know there is lots of faffing about and you need to use live view or make some effort with the viewfinder, but it works just fine.
 
daugirdas said:
Simple. ND 10 has a filter thread, so just screw in lee system on top. I know there is lots of faffing about and you need to use live view or make some effort with the viewfinder, but it works just fine.
Click to expand...

I take it live view is still going to be useble with a 10 stopper in place even if the viewfinder isnt?
 
Moreorless said:
I take it live view is still going to be useble with a 10 stopper in place even if the viewfinder isnt?
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Not in my experience no. Just tried it with my D3100 and D700 and could see b****r all in live view. Plus you cant focus with the filter attached.
 
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TCR4x4 said:
Not in my experience no. Just tried it with my D3100 and D700 and could see b****r all in live view. Plus you cant focus with the filter attached.
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Looking on the net theres seems to be a fair bit of contridictory info on this, some say its not useble at all and others that it is in decent light.

I wasnt expecting autofocus either way but using it for manual focus and composition could avoid the need to remove the filter for me.
 
Just tried in continous studio lighting.. doesnt work
Tried in the garden in reasonable light.. Doesnt work

If you live in California maybe, it might, but I wouldnt hold out much hope in this country.
 
I might just stick to something more modest for now then, maybe a 4 stopper an leave the very long exposurers for low light.
 
TCR4x4 said:
Not in my experience no. Just tried it with my D3100 and D700 and could see b****r all in live view. Plus you cant focus with the filter attached.
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Strange. I can focus as usual in half-decent light right up to dusk with 1-series and f/2.8 lenses. Live view also packs up just before sunset. Something may be not quite right with your camera.
 
Used the D3 with an 8-stop attached to the 24-70 this week in the Llanberris Pass, lighting was very poor with heavily overcast skies (been a really poor week weather-wise) but focusing was not a problem.
 
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