Do I need a flash?

[Uhuru]

Just a quick question.

I'm completely new to photography and only just learning how to use my camera, a Canon 450D.

A couple of weeks ago I was out a Christmas party and took my camera with me. The lighting in the room we were in was absolutely rubbish. I used my camera in auto mode (still not confident in any other mode) so the flah popped up. I've managed some 'nice' photos, but the flash wasn't strong enough (I think) so they are quite dark.

So my question is do I need a different flash or is it just my lack of skill?

 

[J4MIE_P]

It could be either a lack of skill, the lens you have doesn't have a wide enough aperture or the flash isn't powerful enough

If you are shooting in low light conditions you ideally need a wide aperture lens, such as a F2.8 or F1.8, possibly even lower, this could als be combined with a flash gun to achieve better results.

If the lens you are using is the 18-55mm kit lens, then it will struggle in low lights, and a flash gun could be temporary solution whilst in your quest to get better lenses.

But I could advise (rather than £200-300 on a Canon flashgun, perhaps get a Jessops 360AFD flash gun, with a Canon 50mm F1.8 Lens) that set up would cost you around £170 and would be a great start up for low light conditions, then you could expand from there really.

Hope that helps
Jamie

 

[Uhuru]

Yes, it helps. Thank you.

I do have the 18-55mm kit lens as well as a Tamron 70-300.

At the moment I really have no understanding of which lens does what so just have the kit lens on the camera.

Is the canon 50mm F1.8 lens you suggest for use only in low light situations?

 

[J4MIE_P]

Well the 18-55 is F3.5-6.3 and the 70-300mm is F4.5-5.6 so both of them can struggle in low light.

And no the 50mm F1.8 can be used all the time, I have used mine for some portrait work and day-time shots. Just because it has a wide aperture doesn't mean it has to be wide all the time, I take photos with it at F5.6 and F.8 etc etc

But it is a great lens for the price, and I know in Jessops atm they are £99, and a Jessops 360AFD is on offer at £69 too

 

[Uhuru]

Ok. Thank you.

I have read up about f numbers so I have a little understanding of it. I hadn't realised that lenses come with a fixed f number range. :bang: So is the 50mm lens better in low light because it has a wide aperture therefore allowing in more light?

 

[J4MIE_P]

You've got it my friend. The lower the F number, the wider the aperture on the flash (so allowing more light into the sensor)

This is why a
Canon 70-300m F4.5-5.6 costs around £300
where as a;
Canon 70-200mm F2.8 costs around £700-800

 

[Flash In The Pan]

You've got it my friend. The lower the F number, the wider the aperture on the flash (so allowing more light into the sensor)

This is why a
Canon 70-300m F4.5-5.6 costs around £300
where as a;
Canon 70-200mm F2.8 costs around £700-800

Err....not quite.....

 

[Davec223]

Ok. Thank you.

I have read up about f numbers so I have a little understanding of it. I hadn't realised that lenses come with a fixed f number range. :bang: So is the 50mm lens better in low light because it has a wide aperture therefore allowing in more light?

All prime lenses have a fixed apperture. More expensive zoom lenses can have a fixed apperture normally 2.8 while primes like the 50mm will be 1.8 or 1.4.

 

[Flash In The Pan]

All prime lenses have a fixed apperture. More expensive zoom lenses can have a fixed apperture normally 2.8 while primes like the 50mm will be 1.8 or 1.4.

No they don't, the aperture isn't "fixed", that would infer that you can't adjust it, which of course, you can.

 

[Davec223]

No they don't, the aperture isn't "fixed", that would infer that you can't adjust it, which of course, you can.

My appologies wrong word used, trying to think of the best word. Variable is the other I would use but again infers you can not adjust it.

 

[Uhuru]

Oh noooo Flash In the Pan.


Here I was congratulating myself that I finally understand something. . . .

I'm confused again.

I'm not even blonde so there goes that excuse out the window. lol.

 

[J4MIE_P]

Obviously you understand that a lower F number means you can allow the lens to be used with a wider aperature and let more light into it. So you're getting there. There is loads more to learn yet but once you grasp that idea you're starting on the right track.

 

[Flash In The Pan]

My appologies wrong word used, trying to think of the best word. Variable is the other I would use but again infers you can not adjust it.

Constant?

It would be easier if the op just bought a flashgun, but then I would say that, wouldn't I?

 

[Davec223]

Constant?

It would be easier if the op just bought a flashgun, but then I would say that, wouldn't I?

Agree, flash would the best thing, constant, thank you, 1 hrs sleep in the 40 s
plats havoc with thinking.

 

[Uhuru]

Ok.

Thanks guys. Will get the flash gun at the week end.

Another question. Is the 50mm a wide angle lens. If not, how is it different/better than the 18-55mm that I already have (other than the f number range)?

 

[donut]

set your 18 - 55 lens to 50mm to see what it looks like , the 50mm f1.8 will let in more light

 

[aberal]

Ok.

Thanks guys. Will get the flash gun at the week end.

Another question. Is the 50mm a wide angle lens. If not, how is it different/better than the 18-55mm that I already have (other than the f number range)?

50mm is not "wide angle". On the old 35mm cameras it was supposedly close to normal human vision. With DSLRs it gets slighlty more complicated because some cameras have processors which are cropped, (i.e. smaller than 35mm) others are not. But simplistically, its very close to how we see the world. The "f" number range refers to the aperture size - you need to do some reading. Try "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson for starters.

 

[lawrie29]

UNderstanding exposure, By Bryan Peterson.

Let me be the first on here to recomend this book.

 

[aberal]

UNderstanding exposure, By Bryan Peterson.

Let me be the first on here to recomend this book.

Or indeed - the second?

Having said that - interesting as it is, I'm not a huge fan. It's a bit old fashioned. (There - I said it)

 

[markw08]

If you do buy a external flash, stick it on TTL.

Set camera to Manual, 1/60, F8, ISO 800.

Adjust Shutter speed up or down to adjust ambient light.

1/30 - slower shutter - increase ambient.
1/125 - faster shutter - less ambient.

Used these at a recent party...

 

[wicker_man]

I've owned my DSLR for almost a year and have got away in most situations without using flash. I hate using direct flash, which is why I have invested in fast glass (main lens is an 18-50mm f2.8 constant, also use a 50mm f1.8) and prefer to use higher ISOs in darker situations (shooting in RAW and process afterwards.)

Bear in mind that I said most situations, there have been times when a flash would have been very useful and I've resorted to using on board flash, but I'd much rather have a dedicated flashgun and bounce it from a ceiling/wall for a more diffused look. That is why I recently purchased a full manual flash for the bargain price of £30 (from HK) which does the job, but requires you to manually change the power levels and is a bit hit and miss really.

The best thing to do is see how many occasions where you have used flash, and if you find yourself needing it often, then it is worth investing in one. For me, since I rarely use one (especially since I'm doing quite a bit of gig photography where flash is not permitted) it is not really a priority for me to get a flashgun. However, I intend to buy one in the future because in the situations where even f1.8 at ISO3200 is not enough to give a good shutter speed, a flash is needed.

 

[lawrie29]

Or indeed - the second?

Having said that - interesting as it is, I'm not a huge fan. It's a bit old fashioned. (There - I said it)

need to read faster, you got in before I could!!

And I agree it is a little old fashioned, but is still worthwhile.