Hello,
Thought I would share my experience of installing a DK-17M on the D750.
Difficulty 2/5
Patience 5/5
Time, experience/quality dependent ~1-3 hours.
Anyone thinking of doing this, go for it!
I read into this or the DK-21M and the general consensus is that the DK-21M is lower quality, and the last thing I want is to increase difficulty focusing rather than decrease it. Not worth the risk, and now I have a part that if I choose to go down the D800+ route will fit straight onto it. It is worth noting I generally took information provided here: http://www.1kindphotography.com/2011/09/diy-nikon-dslr-camera-dk-17m.html which gave me a good idea of where to start.
Using a Dremel I took to the DK-22, very cautiously. In fact it took me around 1 1/2 hours to shave off ~3mm from the internal diameter. The outcome was this:
NKN_0141 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
NKN_0140 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
Here you can see the original wall thickness (including the thread) of 2.5mm and the cut one being a mere 1.1mm
NKN_0144 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
NKN_0143 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
Not my neatest work, I did clean her up a wee bit afterwards. Note the thread on the DK-17M is around 21.5mm and I cut off enough material to make the internal diameter of the DK-22 20.3mm (it was +- 0.15mm from perfectly round). As I do not own a tap this size, I decided it would be best to use the DK-17M to cut the thread. It worked perfectly!
NKN_0142 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
Be careful, the DK-17M needs to cut in at least 1.5mm to stop stray light coming through the initial threaded bit which I assume is notched for the locking mechanism on the D3 etc.
I used some Loctite 577 (probably a bit over specced, and almost a regret) whilst cutting in the thread as I wanted to reduce the possibility of losing the eyepiece, being extended it is likely to take a knock or two. I also decided to make up a non magnifying piece just in case I want to revert back but not lose the eye cup.
Admittedly I bottled it once I got ~2.5mm into cutting the thread, with the shaved material not cleaned out, and the deeper cut, it got very stiff and risked cracking the DK-22. As a result, the protective section of the DK-17M is a tad loose and not properly securing the ring that holds the DK-19 eye cup in place. I intend to wrap this with some black thread to secure it, although so far it hasn't tried coming off.
Some pics of the finished product (note it has been cleaned up considerably - I had to get these quick last night as our lass started moaning, 2 hours of the Dremel will do that)
NKN_0147 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
NKN_0148 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
NKN_0149 by ryan hollings, on Flickr
More pics below, including a comparison between normal and magnified view.
Thought I would share my experience of installing a DK-17M on the D750.
Difficulty 2/5
Patience 5/5
Time, experience/quality dependent ~1-3 hours.
Anyone thinking of doing this, go for it!
I read into this or the DK-21M and the general consensus is that the DK-21M is lower quality, and the last thing I want is to increase difficulty focusing rather than decrease it. Not worth the risk, and now I have a part that if I choose to go down the D800+ route will fit straight onto it. It is worth noting I generally took information provided here: http://www.1kindphotography.com/2011/09/diy-nikon-dslr-camera-dk-17m.html which gave me a good idea of where to start.
Using a Dremel I took to the DK-22, very cautiously. In fact it took me around 1 1/2 hours to shave off ~3mm from the internal diameter. The outcome was this:
NKN_0141 by ryan hollings, on FlickrNKN_0140 by ryan hollings, on FlickrHere you can see the original wall thickness (including the thread) of 2.5mm and the cut one being a mere 1.1mm
NKN_0144 by ryan hollings, on FlickrNKN_0143 by ryan hollings, on FlickrNot my neatest work, I did clean her up a wee bit afterwards. Note the thread on the DK-17M is around 21.5mm and I cut off enough material to make the internal diameter of the DK-22 20.3mm (it was +- 0.15mm from perfectly round). As I do not own a tap this size, I decided it would be best to use the DK-17M to cut the thread. It worked perfectly!
NKN_0142 by ryan hollings, on FlickrBe careful, the DK-17M needs to cut in at least 1.5mm to stop stray light coming through the initial threaded bit which I assume is notched for the locking mechanism on the D3 etc.
I used some Loctite 577 (probably a bit over specced, and almost a regret) whilst cutting in the thread as I wanted to reduce the possibility of losing the eyepiece, being extended it is likely to take a knock or two. I also decided to make up a non magnifying piece just in case I want to revert back but not lose the eye cup.
Admittedly I bottled it once I got ~2.5mm into cutting the thread, with the shaved material not cleaned out, and the deeper cut, it got very stiff and risked cracking the DK-22. As a result, the protective section of the DK-17M is a tad loose and not properly securing the ring that holds the DK-19 eye cup in place. I intend to wrap this with some black thread to secure it, although so far it hasn't tried coming off.
Some pics of the finished product (note it has been cleaned up considerably - I had to get these quick last night as our lass started moaning, 2 hours of the Dremel will do that)
NKN_0147 by ryan hollings, on FlickrNKN_0148 by ryan hollings, on FlickrNKN_0149 by ryan hollings, on FlickrMore pics below, including a comparison between normal and magnified view.
NKN_0150
NKN_0152
2016-11-13 10.05.44
2016-11-13 10.05.55
2016-11-13 10.07.08
2016-11-13 10.06.22
2016-11-13 10.06.37
2016-11-13 10.06.49