Developing - I'm game

Mahoneyd187

Mahoneyd187

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The time has come to dive in and acquire the equipment and chemicals to home dev my black and white work.

I have a good list of what I need...but are there any other basic bits of information that I need?

Do I have to dispose of these chemicals in a certain way after use or can they just be tipped down the sink? Having said that, is it best to avoid using a wash basin in case you end up with traces reaching your face when you wash etc.

Honestly, any advice would be great :)

Using Acros 100 and TriX 400, any advice re: these films and their treatment also appreciated :)

Danny
 
The Massive dev chart is always useful http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Also, disposing of chemicals, I always tip everything I've finished with, into one bucket, on the basis they might help neutralise each other, top up with water (to help dilute) then tip the bucket down the bog and flush.

I'm sure we'll get a H&S expert who'll tell you how to build a recycling plant !

I have had old chemicals from my father-in-law, from about 1953 and I couldn't find anybody willing to take them - so I just drank it all !:lol:.
(That's a joke for all those with no sense of humour)
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
Do I have to dispose of these chemicals in a certain way after use or can they just be tipped down the sink? Having said that, is it best to avoid using a wash basin in case you end up with traces reaching your face when you wash etc.
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It really depends on how much processing you're talking about doing. For the odd roll of film once a week, say, then there's no big deal in disposing of the dev. down the drain. I usually keep it, and pour it into the external drain when the washing machine is doing its rinse/spin cycle... lots of other water and chemicals to help it along it's way. I pour it outside, as the chemicals in the dev aren't over kind to the sealing gaskets you get in under-sink traps - so I'd recommend using an external disposal point. The stop bath is basically just vinegar anyway, so that's no problem, and as said above, when the fix has come to the end of it's life, mix it with the sessions dev. before disposing outside as per usual.

If you're going to be processing on a regular 10 rolls a week basis, speak to your local council and find what they recommend. If you decide to get into colour processing, then DEFINITELY sort something other than down the drain for disposal, as the chemicals are much nastier - perhaps speak to someone who runs a minilab, and see if you can come to an arrangement ?
 
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Dark space for loading film on to the reel, a tank, chemicals, storage bottles and importantly make sure that you have a decent thermometer and some measuring jugs - also get a syringe if you plan on using a developer such as rodinal where you'll need to be measuring about 10ml at a time, ask at the counter at boots pharmacy, they sell them for about 50p.

Make sure you know when your chemicals are exhausted. You don't want to end up over using the same fixer, over time it becomes less effective. Entirely depends on the dev or fixer you are using, different ones can handle different amounts of film.. Some shouldn't be re used at all.

Use a crappy film to practice how to load on to the reel, I'd do this in light to get a feel for how it all works. Worst thing is when you're in the dark and have no idea where to start.. It's worth wasting a film so you can get a feel for how it all works.

Check out http://filmdev.org/ - a site where people post their own recipes and results. There are so many variations, film reacts differently with each developer vice versa.. It's about finding a combination of film and developer that you like, find the optimum development time and amount of agitation and you're sorted.

Enjoy!
 
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SamuelHearn said:
Dark space for loading film on to the reel, a tank, chemicals, storage bottles and importantly make sure that you have a decent thermometer and some measuring jugs - also get a syringe if you plan on using a developer such as rodinal where you'll need to be measuring about 10ml at a time, ask at the counter at boots pharmacy, they sell them for about 50p.

Make sure you know when your chemicals are exhausted. You don't want to end up over using the same fixer, over time it becomes less effective. Entirely depends on the dev or fixer you are using, different ones can handle different amounts of film.. Some shouldn't be re used at all.

Use a crappy film to practice how to load on to the reel, I'd do this in light to get a feel for how it all works. Worst thing is when you're in the dark and have no idea where to start.. It's worth wasting a film so you can get a feel for how it all works.

Check out http://filmdev.org/ - a site where people post their own recipes and results. There are so many variations, film reacts differently with each developer vice versa.. It's about finding a combination of film and developer that you like, find the optimum development time and amount of agitation and you're sorted.

Enjoy!
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Brilliant information!! Thanks very much all, legend!

+1 vote for my favourite section of the forum :) lol
 
SamuelHearn said:
Make sure you know when your chemicals are exhausted. You don't want to end up over using the same fixer, over time it becomes less effective. Entirely depends on the dev or fixer you are using, different ones can handle different amounts of film.. Some shouldn't be re used at all.
Click to expand...

One way to check with the fix is to do a clip test. Normally, for 35mm you'd use the bit of film leader that you snip off before loading the film into the spiral. Dunk this into a capful of the fix, and time how long it takes to reduce the film to a clear base. Whatever time you get for the clip test, double it, and fix the film for that duration. Same principle applies with 120, but you have to be a bit careful and snip off a couple of mm of the film whilst it's in the darkroom (or changing bag). Put this to one side and use this for the clip-test, and roll the rest of the film into the spiral as normal.
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
Brilliant information!! Thanks very much all, legend!

+1 vote for my favourite section of the forum :) lol
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No problem! Give me a shout if you need anything - Colour film isn't much harder to develop either.
 
SamuelHearn said:
No problem! Give me a shout if you need anything - Colour film isn't much harder to develop either.
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I started with colour film, and I think it may be easier to start with! Sure you have to keep a tight control on temperature, but there is only one way of doing it. Buy a kit and follow the instructions! It lets you get familiar with the whole loading/agitating process.
There are so many variables with B&W developing tempurature, which developer & dilution, whether to use a stop bath, do one shot fix or reuse it, stand develop or agitate. And you get different results with each type of film!
On the other hand, it's ultimately more rewarding and keeps you involved in the creative process rather than just processing C41 the same as a machine.
Somewhere today, TheBigYin mentions his 10 roll system. I think this makes sense for developing too. Stick to one developer and one film for the first 10ish rolls, but then I'm a cautious type!
 
Ok right

I'm shooting with acros 100 and trix 400. Any recommendations for:

Developer, stop bath, fix and wetting agent? (yes I live in a hard water area)

So far I have written down

Developer - Ilfosol 3
Stop Bath - Ilfostop
Fix - Ilford Rapid Fix
Wetting agent - Ilfosol

Any advice on these or better alternatives?

I'm about to buy...and I'm damn excited about it!
 
Probably easier just to get Photo-Flo, £6.65 for 470ml and since you probably need about 2 drops max, that's already good for 235 rolls, or maybe even more. I know Ilfosol isn't that much expensive, but no need to buy a litre of it, since you'll run out of the other chemicals far before your wetting agent looks empty. All the rolls I have developed, I haven't bothered using a chemical stop bath, just water, although that's your decision and it's quite a divisive thing really (the sort of thing that film bores argue over for pages on photography forums).
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
How comes photo-flo is easier than Ilfosol?
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Sorry, extremely bad wording on my part, didn't mean to imply easier in the sense of a process being easier. Are you buying from AG Photographic? Because Photo-Flo is £6.65 for 470ml, or £10.14 for a litre of Ilfotol (which is what I assume you meant). And since wetting agent is such a lightly used chemical, might as well just get the Photo-Flo. Apologies.
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
Ok right

I'm shooting with acros 100 and trix 400. Any recommendations for:

Developer, stop bath, fix and wetting agent? (yes I live in a hard water area)

So far I have written down

Developer - Ilfosol 3
Stop Bath - Ilfostop
Fix - Ilford Rapid Fix
Wetting agent - Ilfosol

Any advice on these or better alternatives?

I'm about to buy...and I'm damn excited about it!
Click to expand...

That'll do nicely - I pretty much started with just the same combo of chemicals myself - by the time the Ilfosol 3 has been used up, you'll have the process down pat, and be ready to experiment with other chemical combo's / different dev's etc. but it's a good thing generally to stick with one set of chemicals until the physical process has become second nature.

Acros 100 and Ilfosol 3 works nicely, maybe not quite as smooth as with Perceptol, but pretty damned well. Haven't used Tri-X 400 enough to comment, but I'm sure someone will be able to.
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
Ok right

I'm shooting with acros 100 and trix 400. Any recommendations for:

Developer, stop bath, fix and wetting agent? (yes I live in a hard water area)

So far I have written down

Developer - Ilfosol 3
Stop Bath - Ilfostop
Fix - Ilford Rapid Fix
Wetting agent - Ilfosol

Any advice on these or better alternatives?

I'm about to buy...and I'm damn excited about it!
Click to expand...

Good choice of film, should cover most situations.

I have often used the same combo (but normally use Delta 100 instead of Fuji).

Developer: Ilford ID11, mixed to stock strength and re-used lots of times
Stop: Ilfostop
Fix: Ilford Rapid Fix
Wetting agent: None - tried but didn't like it, I prefer deionised water...

Cheers
ped
 
Just a quick update.

I've got my cameras, got a L-758D, got my chemicals, and I've just this minute ordered all the equipment I need from ag photographic to develop at home

:D

Ropey results are imminent ;)
 
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