Canon EOS 40D and studio lighting

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Silver007A

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Hi all,

I'm quite new to using studio lighting, very new really apart form a lot of trial and error. However, I was hoping someone could give me a quick guide on how to set up my camera with flash or tungsten modeling lights for a portrait shot.

I seem to get some strong cymk colouring issues depending on the camera settings and don't seem to be able to get the right "exposure" so that the lighting is what I am looking for. I'm especially trying to recreate something like this-

Headshot

I have managed to get the lighting pretty good and maybe just the way I want, but the colours were all over the place and I had to adjust it in photoshop. As I was going to black and white anyway it made it much easier.

The problem is, I don't seem to have a good grasp of the camera settings to get the right shadows and it is very much hit and miss. The manual doesn't help and I've searched online for a guide to set the camera for studio flash, but just fnd the same articles.

Also, I am using proline x300 lighting for flash and I don't seem to be able to tell if the lamp settings make any difference to the lighting. They don't seem to.

I also don't know how to get a reading on my camera for the flash lighting. I'm sure the camera is picking up the ambient lighting and adjusting exposure, etc to those levels and when the flash goes it flares the face. Is there a setting or way of getting the readings by a trial flash that the camera then records or provides a readout to then set the camera to? ( I know I could buy a flash meter, but don't want the expense just yet).

Thanks a lot for any help,

Mr Novice :cool:
 
lo there
I'm a novice too to this but I'm learning
some things to consider
shoot in RAW
go to manual mode, flash white balance, set the ISO lower is better, shutter should be 1/100 or 1/125. too high and it won't sync with the flash, then too low and you won't be sharp enough
set the aperture how you wish for depth or exposure. also can you adjust your lighting?
that shot looks to be lit very neatly indeed from both sides. (not an expert though)
can you post up and example of your problems?
 
How are you triggering the studio heads? You can't use the pop-up flash.
 
What do you mean "Flash white balance"?

If I set the settings low, I have to set the aperture really small aperture and then a black bar appears in the photo.
 
Silver007A said:
I'm using remote trigger that attaches to where the speedlight would go.
Click to expand...

Okay, and the flash is firing, yes?

Camera must be in manual, white balance set to flash (or daylight). Set shutter speed to 1/125sec, then adjust exposure with lens aperture, ISO, and the flash output. Try f/8, lowest ISO, and with the flash power around half.

You cannot use the camera's exposure meter for flash. Judge exposure by checking the LCD image and the histogram, and have blinkies enabled (highlight warning, in the menus).

The modelling light is just so you can see what you're getting, and its brightness is not variable with your model. It is massively over-powered by the flash and will not influence the image if you keep the shutter speed up around 1/125sec. Shutter speed has no effect on the flash exposure.
 
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Silver007A said:
What do you mean "Flash white balance"?

If I set the settings low, I have to set the aperture really small aperture and then a black bar appears in the photo.
Click to expand...

Set the shutter speed to around 1/125th, as already advised. The black bar is a result of using too high a shutter speed.

Set the white balance to flash, or to 5000 (if that option is available, which I doubt) My guess is that you have the white balance set to 'auto' which means that the camera, which doesn't know that you're using flash, is setting the white balance to suit the tungsten modelling lamps and general ambient lighting, which is very different to the colour of the flash.

If you are being forced to use too small an aperture you need to reduce the power set on the flash heads. Your camera MUST be set to manual.
 
Thanks a lot for all your advice. I've gone back to my tungsten modelling lights as that seems easier.

The flash is flashing Ok on my flash lamps. I might have the white balance set to auto and

I'll check that after I get my photo as I'm scared to change or move anything now and I think I have what I am looking for lol

Have a look here. I can change what I need using photoshop, which may be a cheat, but I know PS really well :-)

Photo example

I'm using two tungsten, 1 really high and pointing off to the side and lit from below the face.

ISO 100, Shutter says "40" and Aperture "4.0"

I'm sorry if they are not the correct readings, but going from my manual and the LED that's what it shows. I get confused by what the manual and articles say about shutter speeds and what shows up on my camera.

If anyone has any tips or ideas or advice they are all welcome.

Thanks :-)
 
Well the guys above already gave you some tips, the first of which is to put your camera into manual mode. From the sounds of it you're in Av mode, so the camera is deciding the shutter speed, which is going to cause you issues when using studio flash.

As Garry has said, go into full manual (M) mode, set shutter speed to 1/125, set ISO to 100, set white balance to Flash and set Av to somewhere around f/8 to f/11. Take a few shots and adjust power on flashes (or Av on camera) up/down to address any over or under exposure.

p.s. I like the lighting in your example, but not so keen on the crumpled bin bag (?) in the background...
 
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Silver007A said:
If anyone has any tips or ideas or advice they are all welcome.

Thanks :-)
Click to expand...
Clearly not though:thinking:

Like Darren said - you've been given clear instructions to set you on your way, and you've ignored them:shake:
 
Hey Phil V, easy tiger :-)

Domino 1999 explained it in a way I can understand and I like to try some different ideas too.

I think I was looking more for feedback on the lighting of the shot. It is going to be a girl I use also and not a male.

Once I have the shot I have already set up (and I really don't want to move anything as it took me ages just to get that) I will change everything to what has been advised, especially now I think I know what they are talking about.

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate your help and once I have some shots using your advice I'll post an update.

Have fun :-)
 
Silver007A said:
Hey Phil V, easy tiger :-)

Domino 1999 explained it in a way I can understand and I like to try some different ideas too.

I think I was looking more for feedback on the lighting of the shot. It is going to be a girl I use also and not a male.

Once I have the shot I have already set up (and I really don't want to move anything as it took me ages just to get that) I will change everything to what has been advised, especially now I think I know what they are talking about.

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate your help and once I have some shots using your advice I'll post an update.

Have fun :-)
Click to expand...

Nobody can give you any useful feedback on the lighting, when your actual subject is someone who looks entirely different!

The lighting has to be specific to the facial qualities of the subject, as well as to the effect you want to achieve. There is no 'one size fits all' in lighting.
 
Yeah, when you put it like that I guess you are right. I'm new to this so was just looking for any guidance really :-)
 
for me the trick is experimentation
but somethings should be fixed and they've been repeated by about 4 people
manual mode
shutter of 1/125 or there abouts
white balance: flash
iso 100 (400 at a push on the 40D)
this should eliminate the black bar, get the colour temperature right, and give you creative freedom

after that it's all fun!
play with the aperture and flash power. normally you can adjust this on the flash units themselves.
 
First test shoot went well. The proper shoot is planned for Thursday.

Can I ask how you get lighting like int he examples listed below. Is it the lighting or makup that provides those strong shadows under the cheekbones?

Where would I place the lights?

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?hl=en&sa=X&biw=1152&bih=749&tbm=isch&prmd=imvnso&tbnid=Xq54KuAXNlnxyM:&imgrefurl=http://www.leninimports.com/marlene_dietrich_gallery.html&docid=FlzVgOLUL3kPcM&imgurl=http://www.leninimports.com/marlene_dietrich_gallery_17.jpg&w=317&h=400&ei=TdxUUPnnHqfE0QWQ7oDIBg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=357&sig=105150352014848277949&page=1&tbnh=164&tbnw=131&start=0&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0,i:158&tx=42&ty=86

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?hl=en&sa=X&biw=1152&bih=749&tbm=isch&prmd=imvnso&tbnid=_OmQsoiw_AQZ7M:&imgrefurl=http://allisonbarberamakeup.wordpress.com/2012/03/10/1930s-beauty/marlene-dietrich/&docid=qr2PjkxLe4QT_M&imgurl=http://allisonbarberamakeup.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/marlene-dietrich.jpg&w=338&h=450&ei=TdxUUPnnHqfE0QWQ7oDIBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=585&vpy=248&dur=1507&hovh=259&hovw=194&tx=126&ty=157&sig=105150352014848277949&page=4&tbnh=169&tbnw=129&start=68&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:15,s:68,i:406

Thanks a lot
 
Both examples are a combination of a fresnel spot, directly in front of the model and very high, the right makeup, heavy retouching (yes, retouching and other forms of manipulation were done on film, it just took longer and needed more skill) and the right model.

A fresnel spot isn't exactly your average light shaper, and there isn't really anything that comes close to it.
 
A fresnel spot. That keeps coming up as a requirement for me to get the photos I want. Seems like a bit of a shameless plug from you to sell that retouching product ;-)

Anyone got some directions for the spot?

I did manage to get a couple of lights directly in front to get close to the effect in those examples. However, although the best position was one light almost directly overhead (1-2 feet in front and 3-4 feet above the head with the light pointing down) and the other was from below and just glinting in the eyes to take away the shadow under the eyes without losing too much shadow on the cheeks, I think there might be a better way.

Thanks
 
It isn't any kind of plug, shameless or otherwise. It's an accurate answer to your question. If you ask a question on this forum, someone will normally provide you with a good answer, whether it's the answer you want to hear or not. Fresnel spots aren't an ideal tool for beginners and I don't expect you to buy one.

For the benefit of anyone else who may be interested, 'back in the day' the fresnel spots used in these Hollywood glamour portraits were the ones used on the film sets - massive, very powerful and very hot tungsten lights, rather than the flash-powered ones generally used today.

They worked very well, partly because the photographers were highly skilled, partly because the makeup used could cope with the heat and partly because the talent could cope with the heat and the blindingly bright light too.
 
I appreciated your answer to the fresnels. I've looked them up and priced them as well. It was the link to the "retouching". With that link, did you mean that was my only answer without the lights, to retouch the shot, or did you mean I had to buy the software?

I'm good with photoshop and normally never buy addons like that. Maybe a link to an article that explained it would have been better.

Thanks
 
Silver007A said:
I appreciated your answer to the fresnels. I've looked them up and priced them as well. It was the link to the "retouching". With that link, did you mean that was my only answer without the lights, to retouch the shot, or did you mean I had to buy the software?

I'm good with photoshop and normally never buy addons like that. Maybe a link to an article that explained it would have been better.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I didn't link to retouching, that is an advertising link provided by the forum, it has nothing to do with the people who post on the forum. Personally I find these green links very annoying, but I suppose the forum needs the money.

Incidentally, although your lighting arrangement with a very high light doesn't produce the same effect (or anything near the same) as a fresnel spot, it is the right approach - although you may find it better to use a reflector rather than a second, low light to fill in unwanted shadows.
 
Hi Garry,

I really do apologise for making the mistake in thinking you added the link to the retouching product and thank you for not taking it too personally.

I'd really like to see one of those fresnels in action.

I did think about a reflector. I'll give that a go. Last time I saw mine my little girl was playing with it lol.
 
Doh! they've gone and added a link to my post now. I wasn't advertising that product, honest :-D
 
Silver007A said:
I'd really like to see one of those fresnels in action.
Click to expand...

There's a video showing fresnels in action here.

Btw, this video is on a commercial site flogging the lamps in question. I have no connection at all with the company concerned and if it is bad form in any way to post the link, please remove it.
 
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I found out how to embed it :-)

test3_comp_200.jpg
 
A good result (above).
But your light needed to be closer, higher and dead central, it was off to your left.
 
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