canon 1dmkIII settings for sport

KIPAX

KIPAX

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KIPAX Lancashire UK
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I have most how I think they should be but wondered what others use for

cfn III . 1
cfn III , 3
cfn III , 4
 
Um, some info missing there... either you've not said what setting you've applied to the CF or you've given us the settings by not which CF they apply to. I'm expecting something like

CFn III-1, 2
 
Nagh Its all cfnIII and it's 1,3 and 4 currently all on 0

I am missing shots I should have.. theres nothing in focus when should be.
 
Are you using ring of fire, single point, left/right assist or surrounding assist?

What about tracking sensitivity?
 
single point,, link to actuve AF no assists ... tracking = slow
 
Have you checked the shots in zoom browser with the AF point display turned on? Post up a couple of examples grabbed from there, it might help to understand what's happening.
 
Also, what's Cfn III-5 set to? I've got mine set to 1, it could make a difference if the subject is moving away from the AF point leaving it looking at a clean background.
 
Oh deffo set to 1..

Going to experiment tommorow at a football tournament.. I ahve a feeling that if I lock on and fire quickly I get the shot OK .. But if I lock on for a second or two then it hunts elsewhere... as if iii.5 was on 0 perhaps.. but not using assit and having 5 on 1 then it shouldnt be hunting anywhere and should focus on what i point at noweher else.... at leats I think it should.

ALSO in good light and under floodlights not a problem.. in dusky or lower light or actually not bright sunshine.. then it seems to effect it.. i emphasis seems... its hard to experiment :)
 
Well it looks like a lens calibration.. Anythign up close is spot on.. but cross pitch is OOF. Tried the same lens on 1dmkII and keeper rate is 90%+ .. luverly combination. Put same lens on mkIII with same conditions and setting and its more like 90% bin rate :(

I am trying a brand new 70-200 on tuesday.. if that has same problem then camera is going back.. if thats spot on then calibration :(
 
Could be the lens + camera combo that needs calibrating to each other. They could both be out (but within tolerence) in the same direction whereas the mkII might be out in the opposite direction cancelling out any errors.

Have you tried the AF microadjust?
 
I have a load of settings saved for all sorts of photography.
If any of you want the set I can email you a RAR file of them, or is there a way to put them on the site ?.
 
Here's mine for C.FnIII:

1 = 0
2 = between 0 and fast
3 = 0
4 = 1
5 = 0
6 = 0
7 = 2 (though all lenses are at zero at the moment, but my 70-200 was at +9 when I had it)
8 = 2 (surrounding assist points) - I think this is a really important one.
9 = 3
10 = 1
11 = 2
12 = 2
13 = 1
14 = 0
15 = 0
16 = 10/5
17 = disable

Typically I use centre point for focus. No out of focus issues.

Note that I did focus micro-adjust my Sigma 100-300 F4 and put it to +19. Sharp as anything in my testing. When using it in anger in the field though it was completely rubbish - out of focus everywhere. I reset it to zero and it's pin-sharp. Dur!! I ended up testing numerous micro-adjustment settings, shooting a bunch of frames, noting the frame numbers, changing the adjustment, repeating etc, and it turns out zero is correct :).

Tobers
 
Interesting choices as they would make the camera prone to jumping focus very quickly, high sensitivity on tracking, assist points, and priority for shutter means it will take any chance to lock onto a closer and higher contrast source but not wait for focus before shooting.

I'm not saying the settings are wrong but it does highlight how the settings can be tweaked to suit the shooter style and I think that's a key point, set the camera up for how you shoot, not how someone else does :thumbs:
 
In that case I need 3 and 4 explaining more and why to have each choice...

I am sure now my problems are the lens/camera and it need setting up.. I am gonna try tommorow
 
Tobers and/or anyone else who has calibrated a mkIII to a lens..

My 300 seems to be perfect at close range and the furthur you go away the more out of focus it gets.. At a football pitch for example.. anything close to me perfect. But the width of the field away and its out of focus. half way accross even

Thats not the lens because I used it all day sunday at a football tournament on my mkII.. over a thousand pics and it worked perfect.

But on the MKIII the above scenario.. So if I go out adjusting it tommorow.. arn't I going to spoil whats at close range by making changes or is it unoticable at close range but moreso at long..
 
KIPAX said:
In that case I need 3 and 4 explaining more and why to have each choice...
Click to expand...

Ok, Cfn3-3 is pretty straightforward.

0 - means the camera won't fire until it has focus and will slow down the frame rate in order to better track the subject. Delay for first shot and reduced frame rate.

1 - the camera won't fire the first shot until it has lock but then will sustain the frame rate at the expense of focus tracking. Delay for first shot, max frame rate thereafter.

2 - the camera won't delay the shutter at all, for the first or subsequent shots. No delay, max frame rate.

Cfn3-4

0 - the camera will constantly look at the active point and see if it should re-focus. So if something moves in front of the subject it will adjust after the delay set in the tracking sensitivity

1 - new subjects don't become a priority, the camera will try and track the original subject.

These settings have little impact if you are using a single point with no assist although setting 0 will allow the shift to a closer subject on a single point once the tracking sensitivity delay has expired.

I use a single point and select one that will fall on a good contrast area of the subject, if they're wearing a plain top, esp. a dark one, I will normally switch to the face instead to give the AF more contrast. I'm also quick to release AF if the subject is masked by something closer so the camera doesn't re-focus and a slow tracking sensitivity means I have enough time to do that. I re-enage AF as soon as I get the subject back.

With regard to the lens having problems at distance remember that the further away the lens if focused the greater the difference each small adjustment will have. At close range it might only be a shift of a couple of mm but at longer range it's suddenly become 50cm so the micro adjust might only need a small tweak to bring the long range stuff into calibration without impacting the closer stuff. Of course there's only one way to find out...
 
Yeagh i read the manual - no i didnt - yes i did .... well it was the explanations really.. making it more clear...FANX! :)

I think 0 for 3

I think 1 for 4

I use single point and love the ability to quickly move that around with the "paddle" ? :)
I ahvent time to choose contrast areas.. especialy if varying kits on players. I certainly dont want the camera second guessing me and want it to focus on what I point it at... I don't track much.. I prefer to refocus... I have usually got my exposure manually anyway. I just think focus is so fast I dont need to track.... probably a daft way but it works :)

Calibration. yeagh I thought that might be the case.. just hearing it from someone will make me sleep better tonight.. its a real worry :( Have Wolves c accrington tommorow night so gonna use the mkII until I am confident I got the MKII and lens working happy :)

Any thoguhts on lens quality re old (original so real old i guess) 300 2.8L and a brand new 300 2.8L ?
 
Awww come on... you knew :)

EDITED to fix my gaff :)
 
No, really I thought I'd slept through the release of some new budget end version of the 300 2.8L.

It's been a LONG time since I held the old 300 and my memory isn't that good. Canon Bob might be the man to answer that one, I bet he's got one as a doorstop somewhere ;)
 
pxl8 said:
Interesting choices as they would make the camera prone to jumping focus very quickly, high sensitivity on tracking, assist points, and priority for shutter means it will take any chance to lock onto a closer and higher contrast source but not wait for focus before shooting.
Click to expand...

Indeed - I've read all the blurb on this one and for the polo stuff that I do, the way the horses and riders move mean the apparent focus point does change (e.g. horse's head bouncing in front of the rider) so I need it to track & change accordingly. I've had fun changing it during games and seeing the results - it's a quick enough thing to do - and I've ended up with the setting I've got.

KIPAX said:
Tobers and/or anyone else who has calibrated a mkIII to a lens..

My 300 seems to be perfect at close range and the furthur you go away the more out of focus it gets.. At a football pitch for example.. anything close to me perfect. But the width of the field away and its out of focus. half way accross even

Thats not the lens because I used it all day sunday at a football tournament on my mkII.. over a thousand pics and it worked perfect.

But on the MKIII the above scenario.. So if I go out adjusting it tommorow.. arn't I going to spoil whats at close range by making changes or is it unoticable at close range but moreso at long..
Click to expand...

This sounds a little odd. Give me the lens and I'll test it for a few months :D. Seriously though, you should try a simple test. Go to the local park, shoot 20 shots across the field at a target and change the micro-adjustment by 2 points each shot, noting down the frame number and adjustment setting for when you get back. Ensure you re-focus before each shot!!!

Then set up a target nearby and repeat for your close up testing.

Also - ensure that the camera is on a tripod, you use mirror lockup and trigger the camera remotely as with a long lens like that the mirror slap will affect the shot sharpness.

Then whiz back home, upload the pics and look at them at 200% or 300%. Pick the sharpest one from each series and refer back to your notes to confirm which micro-adjustment setting was used. If the close and distant sharpest shots have the same(ish) setting then you're laughing - dial that into the camera and leave it to it. If they are wildly different then something is afoot and you need to get it looked at.
 
Cheers Tobers and your right andrewc its about as far away from a P&P as you can get :)

I havent got a remote and the tripod although not cheap does strain with a 1d and 300 lens... TBH I have 6 yrs experience with a monopod and can get it rock steady so will have to try like that first.

Again cheers Tobers.. Hopefully I am happier later today.. Its a bit heavy to be throwing at the cat.. plus I haven't got a cat :)
 
hahahahaha I LOVE THIS CAMERA

What I thought would be a long and daunting task has turned out to be quite simple and easy. I had to test lots to make sure it was calibration... diff lenses, diff bodies on diff lenses...

Finally took a deep breath and went for calibration... Didnt do exact tests.. just set to -20 then +20 to first see the difference.. then went +2 then +4 then +10 and I can't get better than plus 10

I do need to setup an exact envoroment to test.. but the results so far are brill.. luverly pics with the mkIII + 300 2,8L at last... I will fine tune it but tonight at milinoux should be a doddle :)

Well done peeps..


TIP... Anyone thinking of getting a MKIII as your first DSLR because you ahve loads of dosh... dont!.. scares me after using a 10d then a mkII :) But am getting there.. out of the box camera it aint.. not for me anyways.
 
99% better than before.. still need a fine tune..should be able to finish calibration on saturday at port vale.. pics from the wolves game are on the official accy stanley website and cant be reproduced here.. but heres a direct link... waddaya fink ? http://matchpics.fotopic.net/c1561080.html
 
The action shots seem to be right.. but I know I should be able to get relativly clear crowd shots shooting from one goal line to the other.. so maybe just one notch either way... will do some real fine tune testing on sat.

But well happy to say the least :)
 
Looks pretty cool! Nice bokeh too - that's one cool lens.

If you are shooting in jpeg, I suggest upping the contrast, saturation and sharpening by 1 notch from the centre value if you haven't already done so. This produces really cracking shots straight out of the camera (for my 100-300 at least) - it's worth a bit of a fiddle with these settings as you can reduce your post-processing time and have some real pop on the pictures with no effort at all.
 
will have a try at that when i get the calibration sorted.. cheers:)
 
Some interesting discussion here! I shall note your words well Kipax when I hopefully get my new baby in a few weeks.

Looks like this is about as far from taking it out the box and winning a Pulitzer as you can get. I just hope I have time to do all this fiddling before my first serious gig with it!!!!
 
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