Calabration with colormonki

Dune

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I have borrowed the CCs Colour Monki and taken every step to get the photo I can find to get the print to match the montior. I am not talking about a little difference but monos are at least 10% darker and colours seem to bounce all over the place depending on subject.

I am running a R2880 with a PC running Win7 and an AOC 22" flat panel monitor. I am loading up the profiles ticking each box and checking it twice. Ive gone through the calibration monitor to printer a couple of times and the check prints are exactly the same each time. My monitor is in a darkened room no glare off anything. I have a spider that I was using to calibrate my monitor and I was getting better prints with that. The skys where a little off and thats why I tried to use the monkie.

Is there something somewhere hidden deep within the OS or drivers that I may be missing?

The only way round this would seem to be a manual profile adjuster. Something that I could open up a profile and adjust to suit the monitor. Are there any programs out there that would do?

Also Ive had prints of my work by DSCL and Costco and they come out great. They do match my monitor. I am thinking that £500 is down the drain due to the problems I am having... Any help appreciated
 
If you were getting better results using the Spyder I'd go back to that. I'd use the ColorMuki for printer profile creation not for monitor calibration. Provided your computer is picking up the correct profile then I don't think messing around within the OS is the answer. There has been some talk of the ColorMunki profile not being picked up until a restart has been made. You could check that windows has acquired the correct profile and is not using some weird one instead.

I don't think editing the profile is going to do much if you say you are getting unpredictable results. The idea of editing a profile is to make small adjustments or trims just to tighten it up. I've doe this in the past and it's OK for adjusting small descrepacies but I don't think that's the problem you have

It would seem to me that the problem may be with the accuracy of the ColorMunkie monitor calibration. I run a 2880 and it sits on a calibrated and profiled system and I do get very good screen to print match.I'm not a Spyder user so I can't give you any help with that device, as I use the X-Rite i-One .

If you really want to try and get a good screen match I'd look into soft proofing. It's not difficult to do, but it does require that you have a reliable, profiles and calibrated workflow else it's all a waste of time , ink and paper.
 
For me, I have profiled the monitor and printer with the colormunki.
The match on colours is good, but the darkness is not good.
What I have found, is that profiling the monitors in the following way, is ending up with a noticeably darker after profile. And it is also possible that this is not being restored by win7 properly. Also, profiling in this manner is not ending up with my two monitors matching. I have a bit more time to play with it today, and will update my other thread with progress. The samsung is normal gamut, the dell is wide gamut

Dell is set up as primary display, connected as display 2. Windows 7 has had the system profiles changed to be the correct Colormunki ones.

1 Profile display 2, manually set cdm/ to 80 (as mine always suggests 80). Advanced mode
2 Profile display 1. (settings as above)
3 Profile display 2, at the before/after stage, the after is significantly darker (and repeatable)

I am considering raising this with CM support, as in my view it shouldn't occur, as the device is intended on producing repeatable results, it should not be possible for me to perceive a difference.
 
Coldpengiun, Ive had another fiddle and the colour seems more stable now. By fiddle I have just recalibrated again and again. Darkness isnt good though.

I really cant undertstand why if with the CM you calibrate the screen then match the prints with the same item this should be enough. :shrug:

Like you I think Ill be getting n touch with CM and seeing what they have to say.
 
Now Ive got to a stage where I can print out what I see on the screen, problem is that the colours dont match anywhere near the standard adobe 98 profiles. The CM profile is very dull on screen compared to adobe. When adjusted to print quality if I switch back to adobe 98 the colours are totally over saturated.

So now I need to process a print version and a seperate web version as they are so far out using different profiles. I am not that bothered having to do this, I just though that they would be somewhere close and be able to have something that would do well in the middle.

Many people will say that it must be my monitor but thats the easy solution one which I dont beleive. My monitor is a reasonable one with plenty of adjustment for backlight gamma etc. If the monitor was that far out I wouldnt get such a good representation on web hostsing sites like flicker.

Time to dig some more, getting there :thinking:
 
Here is my pennyworth; I loaded ColorMunkiPhoto about three months ago as I was having trouble with my print colours on my Canon MP610 printer also the prints where darker than the screen image. After profiling my screen and printer the colours got better, I used a check image to calabrate the printer which after about three calorbrations of the printer the colours are now spot on and I am happy with the color printing, but, there is still a problem with the prints being a tad dark so I was told to make a copy of the image (using Photoshop Elements 7) in Levels make a background copy and click on "Normal" dropdown menu and select "Screen" adjust opacity to your liking, I use about 25% and save, this has got rid of the darkness problem, However, I am still going to look at the screen profiling as I think that this problem can be solved by getting the screen profile correct.

Take a look at Northlight Images site as they have a host of information on colour profiling and you can download a check image free to assist you in getting the profiles correct.

As I say it's just my pennys worth.

"Carry on profiling"

David
 
I have had Color Munki for some time. Recently the prints from my Epson Stylus Photo PX710W printer have been comming out dark. So I removed all profiles from my colour management on my computer and restarted a new profile. As others have said, I stuck strictly to the Monki calibration for monitor and printer match and as ColorMunki is for Adobe editing suits I tried again using Adobe to print with the same results, dark. hard copies.
Now I am the first to admit being a complete dum-dum when I found out where I was going wrong. What I hadn't done is check that the printer was set to a brighter picture print setting! am I thick or what? Don't answer that. Everything is now spot on. Yippee


Realspeed
 
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I just bought a CM and was a bit worried after reading many comments about dark prints. I already have good (custom) profiles so thought I'd try and compare.

First calibrating mu monitors was decent. Slightly less contrasty than with my Spyder2 but perfectly acceptable.

After a few issues trying to scan the printer charts (I wasn't pushing far enough over the last colour) I eventually got the printer profiled.
Very surprised at how well the profile stands up to my custom profile from the paper manufacturer!

The profile is very accurate. There are a few things you need to make sure you are following like setting all other colour management off and selecting the right profile in Ps but on the whole very satisfied so far and looking forward to trying a few more :)
 
Colour profile both the monitor and printer for the ink/paper you're using.

Screens are luminescent and high contrast where paper relies on ambient light and is in comparison low resolution.
The light you're viewing the prints under will be creating a colour cast unless you're using daylight bulbs calibrated to the same temp as your screen.

Finally, it may be bugging you, but I'll bet you that you're the only one that will notice it ;)
Not so many people will see the original on your screen and no-one else will stand there and do a side-by-side comparison.

:)
 
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Use the soft proof in photoshop and check if the prints match with you monitor this if you color profile in the printer and in the monitor are well calibrated.
 
I don't suffer with problems from screen to printer but when I have tried commercial printers they come out really dark.
 
Poah
What should the brightness on a monitor be set to please?
 
I don't suffer with problems from screen to printer but when I have tried commercial printers they come out really dark.

Most likely the screen is set too bright and the printer (whilst matching your output) is also not properly calibrated.

Using a pro lab, with a profiled monitor should provide more accurate prints - but if you profile your monitor your own printer may bnot match unless you get a set of custom profiles.
 
Poah
What should the brightness on a monitor be set to please?

Very difficult to answer as every one is different. there is no "default" for this. But a hardware calibration device and follo the instructions.

If your prints are too dark, it's likely your monitor is set too bright and vice versa)
 
Thanks. I am wanting to calibrate my monitor, so i need to buy a calibrator. I do not want to print my own stuff, i fall out with my printer too much, rather get a good lab print.
 
Thanks. I am wanting to calibrate my monitor, so i need to buy a calibrator. I do not want to print my own stuff, i fall out with my printer too much, rather get a good lab print.

If it's just a simple calibrate of your monitor for brightness you need you can get reasonable results off plenty of on line tools such as

http://epaperpress.com/monitorcal/

If you don't like this one a search will turn up other alternatives.
 
Dune said:
I have borrowed the CCs Colour Monki and taken every step to get the photo I can find to get the print to match the montior. I am not talking about a little difference but monos are at least 10% darker and colours seem to bounce all over the place depending on subject.

I am running a R2880 with a PC running Win7 and an AOC 22" flat panel monitor. I am loading up the profiles ticking each box and checking it twice. Ive gone through the calibration monitor to printer a couple of times and the check prints are exactly the same each time. My monitor is in a darkened room no glare off anything. I have a spider that I was using to calibrate my monitor and I was getting better prints with that. The skys where a little off and thats why I tried to use the monkie.

Is there something somewhere hidden deep within the OS or drivers that I may be missing?

The only way round this would seem to be a manual profile adjuster. Something that I could open up a profile and adjust to suit the monitor. Are there any programs out there that would do?

Also Ive had prints of my work by DSCL and Costco and they come out great. They do match my monitor. I am thinking that £500 is down the drain due to the problems I am having... Any help appreciated
 
The brightness of your screen depends on how bright the room you are working in....

Just think if your monitor was in a totally dark room - you'd see the shadow details and it would look too light so you'd make it darker - and if you were working in a really bright enviroment you'd make the image brighter to see it...

So calibrating the monitor is part of the answer - also the amount and quality of light you use to check your prints...

if the prints look too dark then make the monitor darker - and if they are too light make the monitor brighter....

As a starting point I have my monitors set about 110cdm2 in an average room...
 
As a starting point I have my monitors set about 110cdm2 in an average room...

Really? I had to set mine to 80, to stop prints appearing too dark.

With the colormunki, I found that you mustn't hold it hard against the monitor, if you deform the LCD the colour response will change. I found using the weights, and two fingers about right.

I also found that win7 didn't always register the profile. I went into the desktop settings and set it to use the generated profile.
I also found I got much better/accurate (darker screen) if I profiled monitor 2 then monitor 1, then monitor 2 again.
 
The level you set depends on the ambient light - so 110 is right for me - 80 is right for you... there is no right - its what is right for you...

Correcting for dual monitors can cause issues too....
 
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